It doesn't do it all the time, but enough to get aggravating. My steering wheel rocks back and forth rapidly when I get up to about 60 mph. I rotated the tires, and then had the front tires balanced and an alignment, but it didn't help. Truck's got 89,000 miles on it now, and the tires only have about 10,000. Anybody have any suggestions?

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'97 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4X4

• White/Silver, 4.6L, Auto.,Open 3:55
• Tinted Windows/Bedmat/Toolbox/Lund Bug Deflector/Ventvisors/Extra Horns
• 265/75/16 BFGoodrich AT's on polished 16x8 AR-136's
• Cat-back Dual Exhaust (Straight pipes with big chrome tips)
• Black Polar Bear Grille Guard
• Monkey'd around with the Torsion Bars

 

HI!... FLATLANDER : Check to make sure you don't have a bad wheel bearing or tie rod end. These F-150's of ours are known for bad tie rod ends. Mine does the same thing, but that is only when I drive on the street without my front sway bar. I remove the sway bar for when going to the dragstrip, it helps the front end lift quicker on acceleration and transfers more weight to the rear wheels. I hope you find out what it is.

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NEAL " THE H.P FREAK" E-MAIL :nnewman@sympatico.ca
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 4.10L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, ***** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), fiberglass smooth wiper cowl (painted OXFORD WHITE), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, 3 AUTOMETER guage pods, filled with tranny temp, engine temp, and oil preasure AUTOMETER "PHANTOM" guages,custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, custom programed SUPERCHIP, BAUMANN ENGINEERING shift kit (on stage 5 setting)BYPASS CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE/PREASURE REGULATOR VALVE, ASP POWER PULLEYS, custom tig welded and ported JBA "JET BLACK coated headers, twin DERALE 16 INCH ELECTRIC FANS, PERMA COOL 14"/10" tranny cooler with 10" electric fan, custom ported (STOCK) throttle body, custom digital air intake temp sensor, custom ported TB intake elbow, relocated ATS.


FUTURE MODS : FORD SVT 24LB INJECTORS, CUSTOM SUPERCHIP FLIP-CHIP, BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY, 80MM PRO-M MASS AIR METER, AADI F1 RAM AIR HOOD WITH CUSTOM FABRICATED RAM AIR SET-UP, CAL-TRAC TRACTION BARS, EXTRUDE HONED INTAKE MANIFOLD, SHM CUSTOM FUEL RAILS, SHM "RACE WATER PUMP, 90/10 FRONT CE SHOCKS, 70/30 REAR CE SHOCKS, BELL TECH 2/4 DROP, EXPEDITION CENTER CONSOLE, HARLEY DAVISON F-150, LOWER FRONT VALANCE (painted oxford white) and a KENNE BELL BLOWZILLA SUPERCHARGER.

ESTIMATED H.P TO DATE : 330H.P / 425ft/lbs of torque.

CURRENT PERFORMANCE : 1/4 MILE - 14.53E.T * MPH - 93.00 * 0-60MPH - 5.8 * 1/8 MILE - 9.2 * 60 FT - 2.0

OTHER TOYS : "83" PRO STREET FORD RANGER : 351-w stroked to 408c.i 625H.P (natural), 875H.P with 250H.P "BIG SHOT" N.O.S kit, tubbed (crome moly tubing), 12 point chrome moly roll cage, 4-link with coil overs, MUSTANG II front suspension, c-4 tranny (race prepped), 4000rpm stall converter(8 INCH), 3" chrome moly driveshaft,AUTOMETER guages, 15.50 MICKEY THOMPSON rear tires, 4" M/T front tires, CENTERLINE CON-VO PRO rims, fiberglass hood - bumper - prostock hood scoop, wishbone trac-link, two chrome moly driveshaft loops, 16 gallon RCI fuel cell,etc

 

Thanks Neal! I've got to take it back in Saturday because they didn't get my steering wheel lined up when they did the alignment. I guess I wouldn't have a clue in determining if the tie rods were bad (unless they're really floppy??). If a wheel bearing is bad, the wheel would be wobbly if I just raised it off the ground and shook it by hand, right?

 

Lifting the wheel off the ground and grabbing it on top and bottom and rocking it is the test for ball joints, which could also be your problem. If the bearing were disintigrated(sp?) enough to be "wobbley" the woulg have been screaming or groaning long before now. IMO. Does it wander alot going down the road? hard to hold a straight line? If so, I vote for ball joints.
They would have seen bad tire rods during the alignment.(At least they should have)

Hobbit

 

I think "they should have" could be a key factor. Thanks Hobbit
It drives straight as an arrow, but kinda seems like I really have to 'drive' it sometimes. Can't tell if it's just the wind pushin' me around or not, I haven't driven an other F-150's lately to be able to tell a difference. I've noticed (a couple times) that when I'm turning into & up a real steep driveway, there's a loud pop/noise from the right front side. I was curious about whether the ball joints might be bad several months ago, but kinda forgot about it. Thanks again for your input.

 

Happy to help out Flatlander, if it is indeed the ball joints, I hope it's the lowers. I have read elsewhere on this board that the uppers are "unserviceable" in other words the upper control arms including the ball joints have to be replaced. I hope I'm wrong about that, but I did see it somewhere. Maybe someone else will confirm this for us.

Hobbit

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99 XLT,4.6L Auto,4X4,tow pkge,Factory Side Steps and Mudflaps, K&N filter,BugflectorII, Amazon Green/Silver, Pace Edwards Rolltop Cover.

 

Well, both lower ball joints are worn out, which could probably be the problem. The guy apologized for not checking them the other day. He said he always checks the Chevies because they go bad, but it's pretty rare on the Fords. So, takin' it back in Monday - $55/each joint, plus a total of 2.5 hours labor at <$50/hour. That's a lot cheaper than my old Blazer, which cost about $400 to have one side done. Oh well, I'm sure Mastercard really loves me.

 

If the ball joints end up not being the problem I have a suggestion. Rancho Steering Stabilizers. They are only like $50 and they are easy to install. They are supposed to get rid of the shimmy in the steering wheel and help during off-roading as well. I have the same prob as you, and I'll most likely get these stabilizers in about a week or so.

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1997 Ford F-150
4.2 L V-6
Thrush Turbo Tube catback exhaust
K&N Air Filter
Window Tint
Pioneer 7000R CD player
2 Rockford Fosgate DVC HX2 10's
Rockford Fosgate 500a Amp
Lund bug shield
Vent Shade Vent Visors
GTS headlight blackouts
Bedliner
Chrome Toolbox
3" Body Lift
Lift Lips
305/70R16 ProComp Muds
16x10 Eagle 589
Chrome Westin Nerf Bars
4.10 Precision Gears
Custom Key racing stripes down both sides thanx to some a**hole in the HS Parking lot.
My WebPage

 

Thanks Mav07, I might research into that. I guess I'm not really sure what you're talking about. I've seen the stabilizers on 'real' 4x4's, but don't know if that's the same system. Anyway, the ball joints didn't fix the problem, if anything I can just feel the rocking more now. It sure drives nice and straight though, with stiffer steering, feels like a completely different vehicle. If my shocks were worn out, does anyone think maybe my tires could start 'bouncing' and cause the wheel to rock?

 

Flatlander,

You might want to check for warped brake rotors. My 1989 TBird had a recall for this and it caused the steering wheel to pulse like you describe. The rotor material was bad and had to be replaced.

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Mine:2001 1/2 F150 Super Crew, Lariat, Oxford white w/silver lower accent and Med. Gray Leather Captain Chairs,4x4 ORP, 5.4L, 3.55LS, 17" Chrome wheels w/GY AT/S LT265/70/17, auto, 6 CD,Towing package, alarm, Westin Chrome nerf bars, Seat Savers and Husky mats for hunting, bed liner, white tail light lens covers.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...1294&a=3025874
Wife: 1999 Explorer Limited,pearl white/tan leather,4.0L,4:10LS,CD,sunroof,towing pkg.,alarm. Bought new Sept. 1999

Previous: '65 Mustang 289 HiPo, '70 Chevelle SS 396, '70 Vette Conv. 350/350, 72 Datsun PU,'74 Vette TTop, '79 Blazer, '81 F150, '83 Bonneville, '84 Gran Marquis '89 TBird Super Coupe 3.8L SuperCharged, '93 Explorer 4.0L, '97 F150 SC XLT, 4x4 ORP

 

My Co. vehicle (1997 F-150), the orginal lower ball joints were worn out @ 73,000 miles. Had them replaced with Moog (greasable type) & at 146,000 miles they were good shape, when truck was checked for alignment. I sure wish FoMoCo would intall the greasable type ball joints when they build the truck.

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1999 Teal Blue F-150 S/C
4.6L, XLT, 3.55 L/S 4x2
Tow pkg., Rhino liner, Engine block heater & Swiss hard toneau cover. Premium sound
255/75 R16 Generals-owl
This" is Mama's pride"

 

Thanks guys, I replaced the rotors and front pads a few months ago with stuff from Autozone. Surely they would still be good? I've tried putting on the brakes when it starts the shaking, but that doesn't make any difference. Maybe the rotors were balanced and I lost a weight out of them. I don't know. BTW, I live off the highway on one of the worst washboardy miles of dirt road you'd ever imagine. I ordered some new shocks (Edelbrock from F150online) today. Maybe that will help, or at least make the truck not so bouncy.

 

Well, new shocks didn't fix the problem. I have found that it mainly does it on only one stretch of highway (which happens to be my only daily traveled way), but not with other vehicles I drive. Maybe it's just a bad combination of the tires and asphalt?
Oh yea, I did try changing the tire pressure from 40 up to 65 psi, and then down to 30, but it didn't make any difference in the shaking.

[This message has been edited by Flatlander (edited 03-28-2001).]

 

My 2000 f150 4x4 has a similar problem at
60-70 mph on the highway i travel each day
and i have determined that a good head wind
or crosswind seems to be the cause of mine
wandering around quite alot.

 

My truck this problem and has had for as long as I can remember. I thought maybe it was the 4" suspension lift. I'm going to try
a stabalizer.

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'98 F-150 Lariat Ext.Cab,
4X4,auto,5.4L, 6"
trailmaster lift, Fully loaded.