I had this low speed rubbing sound almost like a worn brake pad in the left front. After some research it sounded possibly like the iwe. Upon inspection I noticed the check valve directly after the vacuum solenoid was bad( could blow air in and out of it) I changed the valve and the grind/rub sound went away but the truck will not shift into four wheel drive now. It makes a gear grinding sound and theres no indicator on the dash of it being in 4 wheel. It is a shift transfer case not a switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 2004 F150 XLT 113k.

 

Have you read through this article yet?

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...then-some.html

 

Thank you for the reply, yes I've read that multiple times it is where I got the idea to check the valves. So I discovered that I didnt plug the solenoid back in all the way hence why it wasnt shifting in to four wheel but now the noise is even worse, is this a sure sign that the actuator has failed and it is not a vacuum issue?

 

Remove the vacuum lines from the IWE's and cap them, what happens? They should both engage and stay engaged with no noises.

 

When the solenoid wasnt fully plugged in that's exactly the case there was zero noise or clicks

 

With the vacuum lines connected, does it make any noise in 2wd? What does it do when you shift to 4wd?

Now, with the vacuum lines DISconnected, any noise in 2wd? What happens when you shift to 4wd?

 

In 2wd still a metal rubbing noise with one single click with every rotation of the wheel with and without vacuum in four wheel drive the clock remains but no rubbing sound. U pulled the vacuum line off the actuator theres the tiniest bit of vacuum certainly not enough to keep it disengaged.

 

I don't follow. Please list all 4 scenarios separately and watch your autocorrect. Pull the vacuum lines at the IWE's and cap them for that test.

 

I apologize, so in two wheel drive with or without vacuum line connected I get the grind and click. In four wheel drive no grind just a single click every time the tire makes one rotation.

 

And for the fourth part I cant shift into 4 wheel if the vacuum isn't connected but I can if it is and theres no grinding.

 

There isn't much vacuum in the line when I pulled it off , if I pull the line from the solenoid theres a loud hiss however.

 

With the vacuum disconnected, the IWE's should be fully engaged. With the vacuum connected, they should be released in 2wd and engaged in 4wd. There should not be any noises whether they are engaged or released. Before condemning the IWE's, make sure it's not the CV joints doing the clicking. If the IWE's are making noise, they are somewhere between engaged and released.

 

Hey, I had a similiar problem a few years ago. I would be slowing down for a stop or yield and I would feel and hear a clunk and grind almost in the front. It was the solenoid switch for the 4x4 located on the top R/H side of the firewall. Cost about $75 and was on in 30 seconds.