CV Joint Boot Spitting Grease.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Tucson, AZ
i just replaced mine with the motorcraft selects from o'reilly. $75 a paice with a lifetime warranty, if it breaks, take it out and go get a new one, no questions asked. took a little time to remove but i was also replacing a lug stud, and it was my first time doing both. im assuming my non-stock spindles helped bc they werent rusted in place, it actually slid right out. they look so much better. i tore the crap out of my original ones. sorry for the huge pics but here you go. only thing you really need to remove is the sway bar link and the cv shaft itself.
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Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: MI
Just replace the boot. After market shafts are junk if you put any power or abuse through them.
I'll tell you my way of pulling a cv axle out of these trucks without even taking a wheel off. All you need to do is pop hub cap off, take off axle nut 36mm, Undo both sway bar end links and pivot up the sway bar up, take off the 6 12mm 12 point bolts bolting the axle to the front differential and wiggle it out. Reverse procedure for install lol.
I'm assuming its the outer boot that is leaking because it is always the outer boot. To replace the boot you need to take the outer clamps off (you can reuse them if you want or get new ones). Slide the boot up the shaft and there will be a snap ring around the outer collar (#10 in figure). Pry that out and that collar will slide off. There will now by another snap ring on the end of the shaft that the bearings are now exposed on. Take that off and the bearings will slide right off the shaft. Slide the inner boot off the shaft. Take the clamps off the outer boot and remove the outer boot. Take your new boot kit and install it onto the cv shaft.
Now follow these steps here in THIS order to repair it properly and NOT blow the boot up again.
1. Slide the boot onto the shaft
2. Put grease from boot kit into the boot (2/3-3/4 of the supplied grease in outer boot and the rest in the inner boot assuming you spilled some)
3. Crimp down the bigger end of the boot, the tool you have pictured works amazing but if you dont have one, too cheap to by them ma dull pair of side cutters works well too.
4. Place the smaller end of the boot in the grooves of the shaft itself
5. THIS IS THE CRUCIAL STEP. You need to stabilize the pressure inside the boot. When you slid the boot on you pressurized the air inside the boot. You need to take a small screw driver, slide it in between the boot and the shaft and you will hear the pressurized air come out. This air is what blows up the boot after the grease inside the shaft heats up from driving.
6. Put on and tighten down the smaller clamp. And do the same for the inner boot.
I'll tell you my way of pulling a cv axle out of these trucks without even taking a wheel off. All you need to do is pop hub cap off, take off axle nut 36mm, Undo both sway bar end links and pivot up the sway bar up, take off the 6 12mm 12 point bolts bolting the axle to the front differential and wiggle it out. Reverse procedure for install lol.
I'm assuming its the outer boot that is leaking because it is always the outer boot. To replace the boot you need to take the outer clamps off (you can reuse them if you want or get new ones). Slide the boot up the shaft and there will be a snap ring around the outer collar (#10 in figure). Pry that out and that collar will slide off. There will now by another snap ring on the end of the shaft that the bearings are now exposed on. Take that off and the bearings will slide right off the shaft. Slide the inner boot off the shaft. Take the clamps off the outer boot and remove the outer boot. Take your new boot kit and install it onto the cv shaft.
Now follow these steps here in THIS order to repair it properly and NOT blow the boot up again.
1. Slide the boot onto the shaft
2. Put grease from boot kit into the boot (2/3-3/4 of the supplied grease in outer boot and the rest in the inner boot assuming you spilled some)
3. Crimp down the bigger end of the boot, the tool you have pictured works amazing but if you dont have one, too cheap to by them ma dull pair of side cutters works well too.
4. Place the smaller end of the boot in the grooves of the shaft itself
5. THIS IS THE CRUCIAL STEP. You need to stabilize the pressure inside the boot. When you slid the boot on you pressurized the air inside the boot. You need to take a small screw driver, slide it in between the boot and the shaft and you will hear the pressurized air come out. This air is what blows up the boot after the grease inside the shaft heats up from driving.
6. Put on and tighten down the smaller clamp. And do the same for the inner boot.
Actually it's the inner boot this time Gotts. Yea, your right tho, I've read that it's usually the outer as well. Red arrows point to grease. Grease was splattered on the concrete below also.
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When I run it in 4wd, I hook the stands inside the A-arms. It's more secure than it looks lol.
I just hope I'm not screwing it up this way somehow. Suspension is compressed, -maybe it's not compressed enough?- Am I damaging it? Like I've said, it runs in 4wd every other month @ 60 mph for 15/20 minutes. Then I take it out of 4wd, go thru the gears, pausing a bit for fluid flow. Then run it in 2wd @ 60 mph for a 1/2 hour or so.
Here's how it sits on the stands, -
Last edited by jbrew; Jul 20, 2012 at 06:03 PM. Reason: OOPPP's!, dirty pic post.
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Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: MI
i just replaced mine with the motorcraft selects from o'reilly. $75 a paice with a lifetime warranty, if it breaks, take it out and go get a new one, no questions asked. took a little time to remove but i was also replacing a lug stud, and it was my first time doing both. im assuming my non-stock spindles helped bc they werent rusted in place, it actually slid right out. they look so much better. i tore the crap out of my original ones. sorry for the huge pics but here you go. only thing you really need to remove is the sway bar link and the cv shaft itself.
Yea, that's what's great about O'Riely's, - they carry MOST Motorcraft replacement parts. Also factory original Bosch parts. Without that huge mark-up from cost lol.
I'm leaning toward going this route as well.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Sask. Canada
Jbrew if your t bars are back to factory setting your stands are not compressing the suspension enough. The Angles of your cv axles are more harsh than my leveled 7700. The likely reason why your cv axles are like that is because of where your jack stands are. Move the stands outerwards towards the tires. It should compress the suspension more because of the extra leverage against the lower control arm.
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Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: MI
Jbrew if your t bars are back to factory setting your stands are not compressing the suspension enough. The Angles of your cv axles are more harsh than my leveled 7700. The likely reason why your cv axles are like that is because of where your jack stands are. Move the stands outerwards towards the tires. It should compress the suspension more because of the extra leverage against the lower control arm.
Yea there's more angle to mine vs user Deno's pics. Mine don't look right do they? Fricken deformed lol.
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Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: MI
However, they do sell "Master Pro Selects" @ $70.00 a side. They look just like the shafts you have in your pics.
But, O'Reilly's do carry Motorcraft replacement half-shafts. Those look much different from what you have.
Anyway,-if I wanted those, I would have to pay $386.99 apiece.
Yikes!I went to they're web-site as well. Yep, says the same thing, -
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...1998&make=Ford
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Technical Article Contributor
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From: MI
Mann, I could drop 1000 bucks into this front end very easily, to do it the way I want to lol. Well, before I take it apart, I'll get it right on the stands and check everything real good for slop.
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Technical Article Contributor
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From: MI
Regardless, would you trust them? Cardon has a "select" series as well. Alright I'll check.
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Technical Article Contributor
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From: MI
They offer two ways to go. Re-manufactured with a core charge, -
Manufacturer Information
MasterPro remanufactured CV shafts are TS-16949 certified, which means every product is built with the same quality systems as original equipment manufacturers. Many times, MasterPro's advanced remanufacturing processes improve upon original products, not just replace components as needed. Original weaknesses are pinpointed and strengthened, making the product better than new.
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And New. Well, it doesn't say re-manufactured anywhere in the description.
Detailed Description
Each axle is new and built to OEM requirements. Every new CV axle shaft comes complete with all necessary attaching hardware and grease to complete the job. Each axle comes with a "Limited Life Time Warranty". All axles are ABS consolidated so they can be used in both ABS and Non-ABS applications with ease. Each part number is tested to failure to insure that the axle is designed to exceed our customer's expectations. This is accomplished with the "Life Cycle Testing" equipment for each batch number produced. Made from premium metals and superior craftsmanship in a state-of-the-art-facility.
Manufacturer Information
MasterPro Select offers constant velocity axles for nearly all passenger cars and light trucks on the road today. Every unit is tested for function, fatigue, static torsion and extreme temperatures - ensuring you get the highest quality components available in the aftermarket.
Yea, no core with this one.
Manufacturer Information
MasterPro remanufactured CV shafts are TS-16949 certified, which means every product is built with the same quality systems as original equipment manufacturers. Many times, MasterPro's advanced remanufacturing processes improve upon original products, not just replace components as needed. Original weaknesses are pinpointed and strengthened, making the product better than new.
_______________________________________________
And New. Well, it doesn't say re-manufactured anywhere in the description.
Detailed Description
Each axle is new and built to OEM requirements. Every new CV axle shaft comes complete with all necessary attaching hardware and grease to complete the job. Each axle comes with a "Limited Life Time Warranty". All axles are ABS consolidated so they can be used in both ABS and Non-ABS applications with ease. Each part number is tested to failure to insure that the axle is designed to exceed our customer's expectations. This is accomplished with the "Life Cycle Testing" equipment for each batch number produced. Made from premium metals and superior craftsmanship in a state-of-the-art-facility.
Manufacturer Information
MasterPro Select offers constant velocity axles for nearly all passenger cars and light trucks on the road today. Every unit is tested for function, fatigue, static torsion and extreme temperatures - ensuring you get the highest quality components available in the aftermarket.
Yea, no core with this one.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Sask. Canada
one's that have a core charge are remans and ones without are new.
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Technical Article Contributor
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From: MI
Yea, I got that lol. But hell, both are a fraction of what the Motorcraft cost. Kinduh makes you wonder. Like you said earlier, are these junk?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Joplin MO
Well - for someone like you that does his own repairs, I think it may be worth the risk getting anything that has a lifetime warranty if there's that big a price delta, as long as there aren't any reviews out there that say that they are total junk.