I was going about 20mph in traffic tonight and the truck made a roaring sound and a wobble.. Got to ba a bad tire ??? Bridgestone Duelar A/T with about 5000 or 6000 miless on them .. Slight vibration in sterring wheel and low humming noise.. It changes with speed but not hitting accelerator (Got to be Tires) Warped rotor on rear are broken pad ???

 

guessin you've got an 03 4wd.

where did the wobble feel like it was coming from, front or rear? guessing front with the vibration.

were you on the brakes when it happened?

when was the last time ball joints and tie rods were done?

 

Possibility it could be a seized up u-joint in either the front or rear

 

I need to have my tires rotated. It is a possible on the u joint.. One time I brakked real hard and the steering wheel did shake. But only once. The tires are very loud but they didnt start this way .. Its sounds like I have swamp mudders on it.. I have been told transmission, I have been told brakes , I have been told just about everything .. Actually got worse when I changed the CV shafts and the front bearing hub assembly's.. I will check the U joints tommorrow.. Its a good possibility.. I did also notice when I shift into Reverse or Drive there is a slight clunk and a very light vibration before I even Move..

 

OMG I put a little grease around both U joints and went about 75 and its like riding in a boat with alot of waves... Man this sux because I got to go out of town for a week starting Sunday.. I guess a may have to drive slow .. Dang..

 

Because those joints are starting to try and free up I bet. I an a mechanic for a living and I run into obs 150 with bad joints all the time. The only way you can check if its frozen is your going to have to take the driveshady out of the yoke and yet and move the caps man. Good luck bro

 

Well I did the grease test .. I brushed a little grease on the u joints tonight and the sound got a little better as did the vibration.. I did notice the engine vibration was still there.. Park and Nuetral no vibration but drive and reverse has a slight vbration at the steering wheel and the pedals.. I am thinking fan clutch or the dang belt tensioner that I didn't change out when I changed the belt.. I guess Monday I will mark the driveshaft pull it and take it to a machine shop down the street and get them to put some new ujoints in it .. It's funny all this happened after replacing the front hub bearings and cv shafts up front as well as the front shocks.. I did also notice agrunting kind of sound when I hit my brakes and yep the stupid ABS light is on all the time.. I am tired

 

You know, you could take it in to a decent shop and pay a nominal fee for diagnosis instead of shotgunning parts at it.........

 

If you are doing the hard work of taking the drive shaft out, why don't you do the u-joints.They are pretty easy, if you have a good BFH and a nice pair of needle nose plyers

 

sounds like your front hub is going out

 

Replaced both front hub bearing assemblies 1 week ago along with cv axles .. Could have got a bad one... It said made in CHina on them .. OOps

 

After a lot of reading and dealing with Pearl Tire and auto Fridasy telling mr there is no waranty on tires .. Said it just happens to some tires that belts break in tires .. I have 6000 miles on the new bridgeston tires.. If it is a tire I will never buy bridgestone tires again.. Anyway The rear will sensor on the passenger side of the truck is faulty , the reason behind this according to my buddy the mechanic.. is that the rear rotors are more or less slightly warped causing the pads to wear unevenly and alot.. The brake dust has piled up into the sensors but mostly on the passenger side thus causing a false readiding in the ABS system , the ABS system thinks the truck is locking up and engaging the ABS motor making the grinding sound as well as the bouncing when applying brakes.. Ok my buddy says the U- Joints need to be replaced as well.. He gave me a list of parts
Abs rear wheel sensors, rotors, new pads and he said go ahead and replace the U joints if it makes me feel better.. So I do agree withe the theory of the rotors being warped , however it bounces when applying the brakes sometimes but not every time.. The roaring noise may be a Bearing or U joints.... We do know one thing for sure the Abs rear passenger sensor is bad.. Thats the only real given thanks to Jeff's code reader.. So today I am going to watch football and let it go .. As for this coming up week I am going to go out on a limb and replace everything I was told too.. If the problem is still not fixed I guess I will live with it.. My buddy says they have a joke for people who dont want them to repair the vehicle when they bring it to the dealer he works for .. They tell the customer if you dont fix it your problem will likely be the first thing that falls off your vehicle...

 

Well look what I found Today .. Wow now I am freakin Out

Check the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTQ83m-zLyc

It is grease oil gunk ... Also the U joints are making a little noise but the leaking oil stuff has got me worried .. So this is what got on my brake rotor and makes it jump .. Ok also there is NO electrical connections going to the back brakes so I guess it is just front wheel ABS ..

Also the rotor is smooth but feels like it is slightly raised as you rub your finger from center to outer disc ... This is bad ..

 

If I'm not mistaken, your rear diff has a tone ring and the ABS sensor is on top of the diff. Have you bought a real shop manual for your truck yet?

 

Well I found a good write up on F150 forum of how to do the seals and bearings.. It looks like alot of work but I may have todo this.. It is definetly leaking and I am sure the bearing is about shot because with the truck lifted and the tire spinning in reverse it looks and sonds like the wheel is about to come off or is loose when it actually is not. I also after reading for about an hour found out why my seal is leaking I pulled the rear end vent tube that was solid full of dirt top to bottom.. So now what .. I think its going to cost me about 300 to 400 to do this myself so I am figuring about 600 or 700 at a shop ?? any Idea.. It is not leaking bad enough to drip on the ground Just keeps getting the wheel rotor on the right rear side wet ... Wonder how long a vibrating and wheel bearing will last.. I got a couple of 200 mile trips I have to make as well as a few around town Jobs 40 miles each , then I may be able to affored to get this done, I guess worse case the wheel just flies off and the truck tears into a million peices???