I have been driving today and the rearend is alot better I still have the brake locking up feeling . It is like a rumble you can feel thru the pedals and when you come to a stop its almost like the brakes lock up at about 5 mph. and comes to a halting stop.. When I listen out the window as I drive I dont hear very much .. It almost feels like I am driving a front wheel drive car without power steering. ABS light is on constantly.. The only time the ABS isn't on is if I start the truck with the brake depressed it stays off until I let my foot off the brake..As of today everything up front has been changed except front transaxle shaft u joints and in the rear everything but the U joints ,, All fluids changed except for trans that will happen Wed or Thurs..

 

Wait a minute - the ABS light is on? That sounds more like a brake system issue.......

 

Yep your right . However as crazy as this all seems , I believe I have gotten ahold of a bad Hub Bearing Assembly .. I am going to check it today.. As far as the ABS light goes The Front Hubs have sensors on them ,Thats why I changed them out .. The rear brakes I thought could be binding so . replaced them and checked the sensors at the rear brakes, thats when I noticed the Rear Diff sensor ( I have changed out one of these on every Ford Truck I have owned so I changed it out and noticed it was full of sludge , so therefore I drained and filled with 75/140 RP and a bottle of the Green Stinky stuff,, So that led me to check the front diff and transmission fluid .. Dont ask why .. As far as the fuses I cant seem to find my Owners Manual so I pulled every fuse in the truck as well as under the hood and nothing was blown. I have done all of this work to the truck and now as of last night , It rides worse, Makes more vibration and noise, It pulls to the right, So that leads me to belive my next step is ABS wire Traceing for a broken wire, Maybe a bad Module...or I go to the ahop and spend 59.00 to get the ABS code pulled. As far as the other stuff I have changed all the fluids and done what I was supposed to do so I guess I live with the slight whine . I am sure I will find out whats wron with it sooner or later.. Back in the day I had a Fox Body 1980 Mustang GHIA I replaced the motor (302)( had one laying around that a friend and I rebuilt for the car anyway) replaced the Trans C4 I think it was ..Replaced the front end and was just about to replace the 383 rearend when I discovered my vibration on it was from a bogus Firestone Tire that was out of round , that thing bothered the Heck out of me.. But now days it's not that simple.. I may go today and ask a transmission guy that I know if he could drive the truck and see what he thinks... This is getting to be to much of a hit and miss thing and it's probably going to end up being something simple..

 

I also read somewhere that rust is not our friend , I read that if you have rusty Hub Bearing at the gear teeth the ABS light will not be able to read correctly and throw an ABS code.. I forgot to mention what I was told yesterday by Canton Ford, The guy at Canton Ford wanted 60.00 to read the ABS code .. I said the reason yall charge so much to do a simple task is that you know we are just going to go and fix it ourselves .. I guess by ripping us off on the diagnosis you feel like you have done your job for the day.. I then told him that it was a shame that I and millions of others out there with maybe a 2 week training class could be ripping people off for a living just like he is doing.. Needless to say I was asked to leave .. You know I always think what my customers would say to me ( Fire Protection and Steam Cleaning Maintenance service for 9 years OWner )) if I got a call and one of my account said my fan quit working over my kitchen hood and I said well let me see it sounds like a broken belt but I am going to have to bring one to see if thats it ..) Then I say the belt cost 15.00 the service cost 25.00 and the diagnosis cost 60.00 because if I tell you it was a belt you would just go change it yourself.. LOL This is how I handle the situation The belt is probably bad , I will not charge you to come and look at it , If it is the belt and you wish me to change it there is a charge of 25.00.. Now see thats alot nicer than saying IT"S 60.00 LOL.. I guess that don't teach business education in Mechanic School.. Hey dont try this either I went into Howard Wilson Ford on I-55 ( Parts Counter Guy walked up ) He said what do you need , I told him I need every part dealing with the ABS on a 2003 FX4 F150.. He says ( I HAVE NO IDEA ) So I SAID ( Maybe you need to go back to school or learn how to use the computer setting on your counter.. He said the computers were down and I left with nothing

 

I little wetness on the rear end and I think this might have something to do with maybe the 4wd trying to engage not sure

 

I just read my axle code on the door and it says B6 so its limited slip and 373 gears /// all this time I thought it was a 355 but it is not // so is 373 better ??

 

If the rear is bouncing when you stop, it is warped rear brake rotors. You notice this especially just before stopping. With warped rotors, the brakes grab more on certain spots and the axle twists back and forth causing the leaf springs to raise and lower the back of the truck. I had this problem on my 2000 and resurfacing the rotors fixed it. Just don't buy the cheapest rotors as they will warp again quickly.

 

thanks Roadie I will get some new rotors next week,, They were supposed to have been turned a month ago by Oreily ... Well They worked for a month almost flawless

 

When my rear rotors warped at about 40k miles, I replaced them with cheap Advance rotors and they warped again within a thousand miles. I tolerated it until about 80k miles when I had the originals resurfaced and installed them. That fixed it up until I sold the truck at 105k miles to a friend. I rode in it a 145k miles and they were warped again. The guy I sold it to didn't care and ignored it.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTQ83m-zLyc

Check this oily stuff out

 

Axle seal leaks are fairly common. You have to remove the axle to replace it and that involves removing the diff cover/draining the lube. It's not that hard just messy. The axle seal was about $4 when I bought one for my 2000 F150. The axle lube costs about $50 at the dealer. You can buy it cheaper at the auto parts stores now or even walmart I think. You need to add viscosity improver if it is a traction lok.