Hi folks...

I'm picking up my 97 F150 4x4 Ext. Cab 4.6, 5spd tomorrow, and I've got a question about the operation of the 4wd. I've never owned a 4wd truck before... and I don't have the manual for the truck, so...

What do the different 4wd options do? 4H, 4L, 2H, etc.????

If you don't have a limited slip differential in the back, how does 4wd work, or does it lock when 4wd is engaged?

How exactly are the front and rear spools connected? what does "N" do? I played with it, but I'm a little confused!!

Thanks for reading, and thanks for the help!!

 

Ok, this will be basic. I'm sure others will provide the little details.

2H is 2 wheel drive only, rear axle.

4H engages the front axle for 4 wheel drive.

4L is 4 wheel drive also but in a lower gear range. Used when max power is needed(steep hills, very slippery surface or deep mud)

N is neutral.

Without limited slip, it's possible that only one wheel in the front and one in the back will be pulling. The limited slip would sorta lock the rear axle and then you'd have one in the front and both rear wheels pulling.\

On another note, you shouldn't use the 4x4 when on hard, dry surface.

 

Ok, More to add to V10man's

First up, the device is called a transfer case. Not to be confused with transmission
. It is connected to your transmission and
"transfers" power to the front axle when selected(engaged: 4H 4L)
With 4L ( LOW Range) selected you REDUCE the gear ratio witin the transfer case. This gives more LOW end tourque type Power. for
more serious Pulling or off roading ( NO DRY PAVEMENT!!!) it also is for SLOW operation.
When in neutral (its for towing etc.) keep in mind that your Tranny EVEN if in Gear( or park) will not stop your vehicle from rolling. Engage your parking Brake!!
surf the web a little there are some great
"Intro to four wheel Drive sites out there.

 

A little more basics....
2H - everday driving

4H - can be engaged while driving at even 40 or so mph, just let up on the gas during shifting to 4H- good for dirt roads, mud etc.

4L - to engage stop truck, put transmission into neutral and engage. Reverse proceedure to disengage back to 4H or 2H.

Don't forget, you can stick a 4x4 even worse than a 4x2 so use your head and have fun.

And, engage the 4x4 system once a month or so to keep all parts lubricated.

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Mine: FOR SALE SOON...1997 F150, XLT, SC, Oxford white/maroon 60/40 cloth, 4x4 ORP, 4.6L, 3.55LS, 17" ORP wheels w/GY AT/S LT265/70/17, auto, 6 CD,Towing package, alarm, Rhino grill guard w/PICCA lights, dual exhaust. Bought new June '96

Wife: '99Explorer Limited,pearl white/tan leather,4.0L,4:10LS,CD,sunroof,towing pkg.,alarm. Bought new Sept. 1999

Next: 2001 F150 XLT SuperCrew, 5.4L, 4x4,3:55LS,tow pkg. etc.......

Previous: '65 Mustang 289 HiPo, '70 Chevelle SS 396, '70 Vette Conv. 350/350, 72 Datsun PU,'74 Vette TTop, '79 Blazer, '81 F150, '83 Bonneville, '84 Gran Marquis '89 TBird Super Coupe 3.8L SuperCharged, '93 Explorer 4.0L

 

You can buy an original owners manual here: http://helm.com/

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2000 F-250 Super Duty, SuperCab XLT, Oxford white with medium grey cloth captains chairs, 5.4L Triton V8 (260 HP version!), 4R100 4 Speed Automatic Transmission, 4 wheel ABS, Deluxe Aluminum Wheels, Trailer Towing Package, Class IV Hitch, Reece load distribution system, Escort Sensor II Electronic Brake controller, K&N filter, Sure Stop towing skirt, "Westin" black powder coated step bars, "White-White" head lamps, Herculiner bed liner, ISSPRO Tranny Temp Guage, Excursion center console.

 

More minutia in my post at: https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000436.html

Plus this:

There is an inherent reason why using the non-differentiated 4x4 on slippery surfaces is even worse (read: less directionally-stable) than driving in 2wd because when entering any type of turn, the tendency is for the vehicle to want to go straight and not turn.

Several reasons, depending upon whether LS diff in rear or non-LS diff.

Assume a non-LS diff in the rear, and the xfer case is a locked design (like our Fords) -- and assume a slight left turn is desired.

The left wheels need to turn less than the right wheels -- a no-brainer, you say?

Now assume that the rear wheels don't steer -- again another no-brainer?

Now for the rest of this picture, please draw a picture of your truck turning left. Draw a line along the rear axle and continuing to the left of the vehicle. Draw lines perpindicular to the front wheels and continue their line to the left until they intersect that original line that runs thru the rear axles (for visualization, be sure that the two lines from the front axles intersect at the rear-axle line at the same point).

OK -- so now you have a picture of an exaggerated left turn, right?

Draw 4 circles (at least arcs) from the intersection of the 3 lines to the center of each of the tires.

Notice that you have four distinctly different circles -- none of which falls on the other.

Guess what?

Those tires are all (supposed) to be turning at different speeds to each other.

Now -- guess what happens when you add LS to the rear axles?

Now add ice under the tires.

Yup -- something is gonna slip -- meaning that the truck is now less-stable during this turn, since common sense (and your drawing) says they need to turn at different speeds, but your LS says lock-em-up.

OK, let's add 4wD to the picture.

Since the front axle is turning at the same speed as the rear axle something must give.

Fortunately, there's no LS in the front, so at least the front wheels are somewhat free to try to work out the difference between themselves -- only the combined speed divided by 2 of the front tires is still the same speed as the combined speed devided by 2 for the rear tires -- and per your circle drawing, they are all supposed to be at different speeds.

Well, they're all turning the same (more or less) yet you want the vehicle to turn left!

If you're on ice -- you're gonna have your truck listed in the Trader magazine with the heading "Rollover Damage" like the rest of them.

Moral to the story:

Use 4wD only when running 2wD will not let you move forward -- or when pulling out other 4wD owners from the median when they left the road because they don't understand what's the proper way to drive with their 4x4.




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Y2K™

XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 AW-Disc, 3.73LS, Skid, 7700# HD Towing, Chrome LT-245, Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, keyless, Toreador Red, called "Nick"

 

Y2K, I could have not stated it better. Anyone using 4x4 on ice doesn't know what they are doing. Only thing more stupid is that they think they can stop faster too! LOL

Good basic explaination for any newbie.

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Mine: FOR SALE SOON...1997 F150, XLT, SC, Oxford white/maroon 60/40 cloth, 4x4 ORP, 4.6L, 3.55LS, 17" ORP wheels w/GY AT/S LT265/70/17, auto, 6 CD,Towing package, alarm, Rhino grill guard w/PICCA lights, dual exhaust. Bought new June '96

Wife: '99Explorer Limited,pearl white/tan leather,4.0L,4:10LS,CD,sunroof,towing pkg.,alarm. Bought new Sept. 1999

Next: 2001 F150 XLT SuperCrew, 5.4L, 4x4,3:55LS,tow pkg. etc.......

Previous: '65 Mustang 289 HiPo, '70 Chevelle SS 396, '70 Vette Conv. 350/350, 72 Datsun PU,'74 Vette TTop, '79 Blazer, '81 F150, '83 Bonneville, '84 Gran Marquis '89 TBird Super Coupe 3.8L SuperCharged, '93 Explorer 4.0L