Anyone know how much to convert to posi?
#2
For an 8.8", 31 spline differential:
$800-$900 generally. Best price I've found for the Eaton unit (this is what you want) is at http://nationaldrivetrain.com I also see them sell regularly for around $300.00 on eBay.
- Eaton Differential - $360.00
- Ring & Pinion set - $150.00-$190.00
- Installation kit - $80.00
- 3 Liters of differential fluid
- 5-6 Hours Labor
$800-$900 generally. Best price I've found for the Eaton unit (this is what you want) is at http://nationaldrivetrain.com I also see them sell regularly for around $300.00 on eBay.
Last edited by AjRagno; 12-08-2003 at 08:33 AM.
#4
You could always go the Powertrax route. $400ish and install it yourself. No additional pieces necessary except new gear oil.
I have one in my '97 4x4 8.8" and it is great in the slippery stuff. No slip at all just full power to both wheels.
Installed in the driveway with hand tools. Having another person helps when spinning the axles to line things up.
-tom
I have one in my '97 4x4 8.8" and it is great in the slippery stuff. No slip at all just full power to both wheels.
Installed in the driveway with hand tools. Having another person helps when spinning the axles to line things up.
-tom
#5
#6
Dan7, this is what I wrote in some previous threads here and elsewhere after I did my install.
For those looking for some info on the Powertrax Differential units, I've had a Powertrax No-Slip for about a year now. I have a 97 x-cab 4x4 with a 3.08 rear, I soon found the open rear to be a major drawback for my truck. God forbid I gave it any gas at all around a turn in the rain, spun like crazy. So I bought my Powertrax unit from a guy who got it for his truck which was stolen before he installed the unit. I installed the unit in about an hour in the driveway with hand tools. I used the Ford 75W140 gear oil rather than the aftermarket 75W90, 50% less viscosity at high temperature is too much for me to give up. The unit does pop around turns for about the first day, they say 50 miles or so. The unit will pop very rarely now after 8Kish miles.
The traction difference is amazing. There is NO differentiation in the wet or mud ;-) Both tires get full power all the time. The inside tire does scrub any time I give it gas around a tight corner, kind of annoying but I learned to adjust my driving. Since the Lock Right is supposed to be a much harsher unit, I would recommend the No-Slip to anyone looking to upgrade their open diff to get some serious traction.
I was just mudding this weekend with a buddy in his jeep CJ-7, the F150 was able to go anywhere and everywhere the Jeep could.
If anyone has any questions about the install or what have you, let me know.
-tom
and this:
I'm sure you will be happy with it. Do you have a 4x4? If not you will appreciate it even more, one wheel peal sucks.
I have learned to give the truck some throttle before entering a turn and then let it coast through. Otherwise I scrub that inside tire like crazy. I know that is exactly how it is supposed to work but it can't help the treadwear that's for sure.
Ripping donuts in the mud now that is fun, seeing 2 big rooster tails coming out the back.
-tom
and this:
I installed a Powertrax No-Slip myself with a little help from a buddy. It is really nice to have 2 people since you need to spin the tires and slide the axles in and out a bit to get everything to line up and seat correctly. One guy manipulates the tire while the other futzes inside the pumpkin. One thing to be careful of is the pinion bolt. It is a 10mm if I recall correctly and it is tight. Tight, meaning getting it to turn and also tight to get a ratchet onto. DO NOT slip the socket off while trying to break the bolt loose, otherwise the bolt will round and then you are F-ed. If you have any mechanical skills and can follow directions (which I'm assuming you do since you are going to try this yourself) the install should take about an hour or so. I think you will be pleased with the difference in the truck
-tom
hope that is some good info for you.
-tom
For those looking for some info on the Powertrax Differential units, I've had a Powertrax No-Slip for about a year now. I have a 97 x-cab 4x4 with a 3.08 rear, I soon found the open rear to be a major drawback for my truck. God forbid I gave it any gas at all around a turn in the rain, spun like crazy. So I bought my Powertrax unit from a guy who got it for his truck which was stolen before he installed the unit. I installed the unit in about an hour in the driveway with hand tools. I used the Ford 75W140 gear oil rather than the aftermarket 75W90, 50% less viscosity at high temperature is too much for me to give up. The unit does pop around turns for about the first day, they say 50 miles or so. The unit will pop very rarely now after 8Kish miles.
The traction difference is amazing. There is NO differentiation in the wet or mud ;-) Both tires get full power all the time. The inside tire does scrub any time I give it gas around a tight corner, kind of annoying but I learned to adjust my driving. Since the Lock Right is supposed to be a much harsher unit, I would recommend the No-Slip to anyone looking to upgrade their open diff to get some serious traction.
I was just mudding this weekend with a buddy in his jeep CJ-7, the F150 was able to go anywhere and everywhere the Jeep could.
If anyone has any questions about the install or what have you, let me know.
-tom
and this:
I'm sure you will be happy with it. Do you have a 4x4? If not you will appreciate it even more, one wheel peal sucks.
I have learned to give the truck some throttle before entering a turn and then let it coast through. Otherwise I scrub that inside tire like crazy. I know that is exactly how it is supposed to work but it can't help the treadwear that's for sure.
Ripping donuts in the mud now that is fun, seeing 2 big rooster tails coming out the back.
-tom
and this:
I installed a Powertrax No-Slip myself with a little help from a buddy. It is really nice to have 2 people since you need to spin the tires and slide the axles in and out a bit to get everything to line up and seat correctly. One guy manipulates the tire while the other futzes inside the pumpkin. One thing to be careful of is the pinion bolt. It is a 10mm if I recall correctly and it is tight. Tight, meaning getting it to turn and also tight to get a ratchet onto. DO NOT slip the socket off while trying to break the bolt loose, otherwise the bolt will round and then you are F-ed. If you have any mechanical skills and can follow directions (which I'm assuming you do since you are going to try this yourself) the install should take about an hour or so. I think you will be pleased with the difference in the truck
-tom
hope that is some good info for you.
-tom
#7
Trending Topics
#8
lowriderf150
It is more like a locker that allows you to go around turns. Limited slip is like it says: one tire gets power and the other gets 'limited' power. It is limited by the amount of clamping force the clutches can provide.
The Powertrax unit mechanically locks the axles so that both tires get full power. The unit does allow the outside tire to overrun in a turn, BUT if you give throttle in the turn the unit will try to lock again and the inside tire will bark a little bit. Turning in the messy stuff the rear WILL come around or step out, depending on the right foot, as the case may be.
You can't get better power distribution than 50-50 which is what the Powertrax provides.
-tom
It is more like a locker that allows you to go around turns. Limited slip is like it says: one tire gets power and the other gets 'limited' power. It is limited by the amount of clamping force the clutches can provide.
The Powertrax unit mechanically locks the axles so that both tires get full power. The unit does allow the outside tire to overrun in a turn, BUT if you give throttle in the turn the unit will try to lock again and the inside tire will bark a little bit. Turning in the messy stuff the rear WILL come around or step out, depending on the right foot, as the case may be.
You can't get better power distribution than 50-50 which is what the Powertrax provides.
-tom
#9
#10
#12
Don't forget about the OEM Ford traction lock. You can get it at a Ford dealer for about $250. If you want is to lock tighter you can resatack the clutches. It is also rebuildable. New clutches cost about $50. You'll also need new bearings for the carrier. If you do it yourself, reuse your ring, you should be able to get it done for about $325. Look at www.corral.net for techincal articles on 8.8 installs. The tech feature on the corral is not working this morning so I couldn't get you a direct link.
#14
#15