Ah, that makes sense. All I could figure they were good for is catching the edges and tearing the towels I use to wash my vehicle.

 

I see we share that problem...

 

The tool is kinda kool. If you look close to the **** there are numbers on the light. The adaptors are small or large with extendable feet. You match the length/number on the feet to number on the light. The actual alingment tool slips onto the adaptor and has a suction cup that holds onto the light. It has ***** attached to level level gauges (bubble type) to set the height. You look through a horizontal periscope to set left to right alighnment and parallelness. I like this tool so much I wanted to buy one. But, the cost was too much. It was about $500 for the adaptors and all.

 

guess my lights can't be aimed any more!
I have cut off the pips and polished them smooth. Now i can wipe the lights at the gas station.

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97, 4.6, 3.55LS, Dk red 265/75/16, Leer cap, Rhino bed, rose wood dash kit, CD player, High performance cross drilled rotors

 

Ok this is kinda a general question about headlights. This is not specific to F150s cause I know my Taurus had it, but the F150 also has it. On the front of the headlight are three protrusions molded into the plastic. They are on the clear plastic part of the headlight assembly. They are roughly the size of an eraser on a pencil, but they are smooth and rounded. Does anyone know what those are?


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1999 Lariat SuperCab Flareside, Amazon Green with Silver trim, 5.4L, 4x2, 4 wheel disc/ABS, 3.55 limited slip, towing package, fog lamps, sliding rear window, captains chairs, keyless entry with alarm, spray-on bed liner, bug guard, and K&N. http://www.csc.calpoly.edu/~bfriesen/truck.html

 

They are used to align the headlights. Ford has alignment tool that uses them to assure correct positioning.

 

I have a problem with the descriptions regarding the headlight aiming tool positioning PINS.
Bent6 calls them "****", while uknigel calls them "PIPS".
In my 65 years on this here planet, I have always been able to differentiate between **** & PIPS.
PIPS are the center piece of olives, which are taken out & some red thing shoved in & used extensivly in martini's.
****, on the other hand are seldom used IN martini's, but are oft times handled after a few. (matini's, that is )

Thats all I have to say about that!!!

I just hope that uknigel never comes at me, head on, with his "brights" showing

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98 F150 S/C 4.6 2wd Vermillion/Silver,HD Tow Pkg, Boards, Vents, Bug Chaser, DIY "breezer" Tailgate, 5th whl hitch, Tool box, 16" OEM Mag's

 

For what its worth, I like Tit's better. The Pip's were the background group for Gladis Knight.

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97 F-150 SC Lariat, Styleside, White over gold, 4.6L (Windsor) automatic, 3.55 rear end, electronic 4X4, w/ every option of Lariat and ORP packages except the 17" wheels and the 4X4 decals, MOD so far= K&N air box mod, Gibson Super Truck, clear Bugflector II, Leer TSC 600 hard cover, Bridgestone Dueler OWL ATP 265/75 R-16's, TrailMaster VVS shocks, Smittybilt step bars, Ford moulded mud guards, "White-white" head lamps.




[This message has been edited by cphilip (edited 10-29-1999).]

 

So, folks. How do you adjust the headlight aim without taking it to the dealer? My manual simply says the headlights are adjusted just fine at the factory. Well, mine were. But I added my usual winter load of about 500 lbs of stone dust in plastic bags for traction. Now, I get flashed because my low beams are dazzling other drivers.

Who knows how to play with the beam aim in your own driveway?

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Black 2000 SC short-box XLT. 4.2 V-6, 5-speed, 3.55 Limited Slip. Side steps, CD, remote entry, factory box liner. My add-ons: Older Windstar (driver's side) wiper blade - the one with the air scoop, because I don't slow down when it rains; "f150online" sticker and snazzy Tweetie Bird floor mats.

My second of the "new" F150s. Great trucks!

 

Shifter,
You could take the weight out of the bed, pull the truck a certain length from the garage door, mark the door where the light hits, put the weight back in, and aim the lights to your marks on the door.

I've seen several cars with bubble levels on the top of the headlight capsules. You would think that would ideal on a truck, since the load can change alot. Maybe next year?

 

Roadrunner, I thought the things in the middle of olives were PITS (as in Brad- and arm-). cphilip got PIPS right, and I am certainly not thinking of headlights when I have **** on my mind!

Shifter, Bent6 is correct -- pull your truck up ~10'-15' from a blank wall, turn on your lights, and mark on the wall (with chalk) where they hit. Turn off your lights, pop your hood and pull up on the 2 tabs above each headlight (do one light at a time), then carefully pull the lights out the front of the truck. There will be three alignment/retaining screws on the back of each light with black 4-headed nuts on them. Turn these nuts to make the light move (to make the light move down, "loosen" the top-most nut -- this may also move the light "out" a bit so be prepared to make further adjustments). Replace the light (making sure to get it on the three tracks it sits on) and compare to your original marking to see how much it changed. Repeat until it's correct, or until you get tired of removing/installing/checking the alignment.

Good luck,

Jim

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'99 F-250 LD 5.4L SC XLT 2WD 3.73LS in White/Silver (w/ EVERYTHING 'cept leather and engine block heater) -- added: SnugTop Hi-Liner & carpet kit, Donnelly electrochromatic/compass mirror, K&N filter, SuperWhite 9007 bulbs, IAS shocks, Mobil 1, more to come... (Flowmaster 70 cat-back exhaust is on order, Westin side bars, electric fan, Superchip, and silver fender/wheel flares are next)

http://hometown.aol.com/jimorama/myh...ollection.html

 

Bent6: I know the general process using the garage door, but there are usually Philips-head adjustment screws on the headlight units and I can't find them. Or are there any?

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Black 2000 SC short-box XLT. 4.2 V-6, 5-speed, 3.55 Limited Slip. Side steps, CD, remote entry, factory box liner. My add-ons: Older Windstar (driver's side) wiper blade - the one with the air scoop, because I don't slow down when it rains; "f150online" sticker and snazzy Tweetie Bird floor mats.

My second of the "new" F150s. Great trucks!

 

Oops. Sorry. Brain fade. Just saw the answer in JHerron's reply. Thank you, JHerron.

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Black 2000 SC short-box XLT. 4.2 V-6, 5-speed, 3.55 Limited Slip. Side steps, CD, remote entry, factory box liner. My add-ons: Older Windstar (driver's side) wiper blade - the one with the air scoop, because I don't slow down when it rains; "f150online" sticker and snazzy Tweetie Bird floor mats.

My second of the "new" F150s. Great trucks!

 

JHERRON - I don't care if it's "PIPS", or "PIT'S" - Just pour me another martoonii

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98 F150 S/C 4.6 2wd Vermillion/Silver,HD Tow Pkg, Boards, Vents, Bug Chaser, DIY "breezer" Tailgate, 5th whl hitch, Tool box, 16" OEM Mag's

 

How do I get my headlights out? If I pull the two handles will it fall out in my hands?
Do they fit back correctly without realignment?

I want to pull the grille and the headlights are in the way of the two side bolts.
I have the Haynes manual but it says nothing about what happens after pulling those handles.
has anyone done this?


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97 F-150,4.6, Reg Cab, Flareside, Air Aid Kit, TransGo Shift Kit,
Superchips, Gibson Single Cat Back, ******* Bed Cover,
EGR Bug Shield, XL Full Length Running Boards,
Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs