Front Splash Guards (Mud Flaps)

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Old Jan 20, 2000 | 07:51 PM
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LoNE WoLF's Avatar
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Arrow Front Splash Guards (Mud Flaps)

Howdy All,

Has anyone installed the factory mud flaps up front on a 2000 F-150 with the factory step bars. If so what are the part numbers. How easy/hard were they to install. ThanX

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2000 F-150 Lariat, Flareside, Black, SC, 4x4, 5.4L, 3.55, Garmin Street Pilot Color GPS

 
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Old Jan 20, 2000 | 08:16 PM
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Hey LoNE WoLF!
I bought and installed the factory mudflaps for my 99 xlt. I have the factory accessories catalog in front of me now.
this is for 99's so I dont know if the parts number are going to be the same. Just go to your local dealers parts dept. they will order them for you. take about a week.

Molded splash guards: $34 part #16A550
come in pairs specify front or rear.

Fairly easy to install. Easier if you remove the wheel. They dont interfere with my factory tubular side bars. I like them alot,help keep the truck clean.

As to your other post about interior air filter kit:

Kit SRP $67
replacement filter $25
part # 18D477 for the kit
# 19N619 for the filter

the catalog states: "installation by your Ford dealer recommended."

Again these are numbers from the 1999 accessories catalog they may be different for 2000. You can get a catalog at your dealer.

Hope this helps, Good luck!

Hobbit

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99 XLT,4.6L Auto,4X4,tow pkge,Factory Nerf Bars and Mudflaps, K&N filter,BugflectorII, Amazon Green/Silver, soon to be Pace Edwards Rolltop Cover, maybe a Superchip
 
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Old Jan 20, 2000 | 08:33 PM
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Cool

ThanX Hobbit,

When you installed the mud flaps, did you have to drill any holes. How do they mount?

------------------
2000 F-150 Lariat, Flareside, Black, SC, 4x4, 5.4L, 3.55, Garmin Street Pilot Color GPS

 
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Old Jan 21, 2000 | 11:43 AM
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<font size="1" face="veranda, arial">
I believe the instructions call for drilling one hole for each mud guard into the rocker panel and one hole into the plastic inner fender liner. The fender liner was no problem but I wasn't going to drill into the rocker panel. Instead, I used the 3M double sided molding tape, similar stuff that's on the small stone guard that needs to be removed. It works great along with the existing plastic plugs.
<HR></font><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" COLOR="#0000ff">1999 F-150 XLT</P></FONT><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=1>4x2 Supercab</P>139" WB Styleside </P>
Exterior:</P><UL></FONT><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=1 COLOR="#800000">[*]Dark Toreador Red </LI>[/list]</FONT><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=1>Interior:</P><UL></FONT><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=1 COLOR="#808080">[*]Dark Graphite 40/60 Split Bench </LI>[/list]</FONT><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=1>
DOB:</P>
<UL>[*]7/19/99</LI>[/list]</FONT><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=2 COLOR="#0000ff">
Optional Equipment:</P>
<UL>
</FONT><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=1>[*]4.6L EFI V8 Engine </LI>[*]Electronic 4-spd Auto O/D </LI>[*]P255/70R-16 OWL All-Season </LI>[*]3.55 Ratio Limited Slip Axle </LI>[*]Floor Mats - Carpeted </LI>[*]6050# GVWR Package </LI>[*]Sliding Rear Window, </LI>[*]Trailer Towing Group, Class III </LI>[*]Premium Electronic AM/FM W/CD </LI>[*]6-way Power Driver's Seat , </LI>[*]Remote Keyless Entry </LI>[*]Air Conditioning </LI>[*]4-W ABS/4-W Disc</LI>[/list]</FONT><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=2 COLOR="#0000ff">
Added:</P>
<UL>
</FONT><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=1>[*]Ford drop-in Bedliner - #F75Z-9900038-AB - $211. installed </LI>[*]Ziebart rustproofing - $279. </LI>[*]Smittybilt nerfs, textured black - #FN1730-S4T - $210. </LI>[*]Ford molded splash guards, front - #F65Z-16A550-CE - $33.33 </LI>[*]Ford Locking Gas Cap - #F75Z-9030-GA - $19.43 </LI>[*]Spare PATS Key - $20.95</LI>[/list]</FONT>
<HR></P>
<FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS" SIZE=2 COLOR="#0000ff">
1998 Windstar</P>
1993 Taurus</P>
</FONT>

[This message has been edited by Jimb (edited 01-28-2000).]
 
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Old Jan 21, 2000 | 11:44 AM
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deleted dup post.


[This message has been edited by Jimb (edited 01-21-2000).]
 
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Old Jan 21, 2000 | 06:49 PM
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Jimb is right, however, I added an extra screw along the bottom of the wheel well. I also think the 3M tape is a good idea (wish I thought of it). Cordless drill/driver worked great with self taping screws. I have an attachment that I can use to drill/drive at 90 degree angles so I just turned the wheels out of the way. Go for it!

hobbit

------------------
99 XLT,4.6L Auto,4X4,tow pkge,Factory Nerf Bars and Mudflaps, K&N filter,BugflectorII, Amazon Green/Silver, soon to be Pace Edwards Rolltop Cover, maybe a Superchip
 
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Old Jan 25, 2000 | 05:04 PM
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All theese guys with xlt's are right its easy, I did it on mine as well. Now for the big question of the day. I see you drive a Lariat. Does it have the fender flares that so many of them do? If so you will have to stretch the molded flaps a bit to make them fit. They won't ride under factory flares. Its still simple to do though.

------------------
2000 F150 SC XLT
5.4
4-sp auto
255/70r-16
3.55 LS
Heavy Duty electric
Heavy Duty cooling
Trailer Towing Group
Keyless Entry
Soft Cover
Captains Chairs
wedg blue& silver two tone
Fog Lights
Bed Liner
Fender Flairs
Cab Steps
10 disc CD changer

(Just 892 more payments and that sucker is all mine)
 
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Old Jan 25, 2000 | 07:31 PM
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LoNE WoLF,
Be sure to order the factory mud flaps that fit the 2000 F-150 Lariat, then you won't have any problem with fitting around the wheel well molding. You'll find your bars won't get as muddy.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2000 | 06:41 PM
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LoNE WoLF's Avatar
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Arrow

ThanX U All,

Just pick'd up the mud flaps from the dealer, but I don't think they are the right ones. I'm going to go back on Monday. Wow I didn't know that the XLT's don't have the factory fender flares. I'll have to make sure I tell the part's guy that I have a Lariat.

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2000 F-150 Lariat, Flareside, Black, SC, 4x4, 5.4L, 3.55, Garmin Street Pilot Color GPS

 
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