How-To: Big 3 Upgrade (Extremely Pic-Heavy)

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  #61  
Old 06-09-2010, 07:18 PM
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No biggie. I'm working on getting them back but some will have to be retaken and others will not be coming back (process of crimping/soldering the wires). I had them stored on an external flash drive and my habit is to clear that out every so often. Unfortunately I forgot I had the pictures stored on my Flickr account....so when I cleared it out the pictures went poof.
 
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mears
Ok, I did a bit more wire tracing and here is how the grounding is handled on the 2009s, which sounds like it is similar, if not equal to earlier years,

Negative Battery Terminal is grounded to the chassis via a short run to sheet metal under hood
Negative Battery Terminal is connected to engine block via a bolt on starter underneath the truck.
Bolt on starter has a second wire that grounds to the frame underneath the passenger side front wheel well.
Chassis is grounded to frame via a non-insulated wire braid just behind front passenger wheel.


So, with that detailed out, here is what I'm thinking about doing is keeping all factory wiring and running 1/0 along side it with one exception: Instead of running 1/0 from negative terminal to starter bolt and then 1/0 from starter bolt to frame, I'm thinking of running 1/0 from negative terminal to starter bolt and then 1/0 from negative terminal to frame. The reason being is that it's pretty crowded down there and I don't think I can squeeze two runs of 1/0 to the starter bolt. Thoughts?
Your info is accurate. I have a 2009 and did all of the ground updates with 1/0 except for the run from starter mounting bolt to frame under passenger wheel well. I left the stock wiring in for now until I'm sure why they did it. The info I have been given here at work is they did that instead of running directly from the battery is because they wanted all grounds attached while truck was up on hoist except for any connections very near the battery.

But I still don't understand since the frame is right next to the starter motor, they could have made a much shorter run from there???
 
  #63  
Old 06-27-2010, 06:47 PM
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Big 3 Questions

Hey guys, not seeing the pictures has hindered me. Here is what I have done today. 1/0 ga power (fused 250amp) to alternator, negative post to frame, starter ground to frame. Is this correct? I was planning to go negative post to chassis under the hood as well but haven't done that yet. Truck is reading a constant 14.29 volts.
 
  #64  
Old 07-19-2010, 06:06 PM
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Sorry for the delay guys....I've been inactive for a while. I'll go out tomorrow and shoot some pics of what I have. While it won't be as in-depth as the previous pictures, it should help out enough to get the job done.
 
  #65  
Old 07-19-2010, 06:50 PM
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With that fancy new camera you should be able to take some killer pics for this 'how-to'!!

Slacker!

- NCSU
 
  #66  
Old 07-19-2010, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mears
Ok, I did a bit more wire tracing and here is how the grounding is handled on the 2009s, which sounds like it is similar, if not equal to earlier years,

Negative Battery Terminal is grounded to the chassis via a short run to sheet metal under hood
Negative Battery Terminal is connected to engine block via a bolt on starter underneath the truck.
Bolt on starter has a second wire that grounds to the frame underneath the passenger side front wheel well.
Chassis is grounded to frame via a non-insulated wire braid just behind front passenger wheel.


So, with that detailed out, here is what I'm thinking about doing is keeping all factory wiring and running 1/0 along side it with one exception: Instead of running 1/0 from negative terminal to starter bolt and then 1/0 from starter bolt to frame, I'm thinking of running 1/0 from negative terminal to starter bolt and then 1/0 from negative terminal to frame. The reason being is that it's pretty crowded down there and I don't think I can squeeze two runs of 1/0 to the starter bolt. Thoughts?
Yea, that's how my 98 is wired, - except I have two Big Cable grounds behind the cab. - One on each side of the truck. I have two more I installed myself. One for a 1100 watt inverter, the other for a Amplifier.


Just keep in mind, your ground is going to travel the shortest distance with the least resistance no matter what your do.

Absolute ground is your alternate housing. That bolt on the starter grounds everything from the tranny back as-well.
 
  #67  
Old 07-21-2010, 09:36 AM
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Here are the new pics. Not as in-depth as before but hopefully they are enough to help. The pictures should be self-explanatory when it comes to cable locations, but let me know if you have any questions. I'll repeat what I said in the original post: this isn't a set-in-stone way....it's the way I did it.













 
  #68  
Old 07-23-2010, 11:14 PM
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in the engine to frame pic, what engine component is that? Thanks for getting these posted!
 
  #69  
Old 07-25-2010, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by f150intally
in the engine to frame pic, what engine component is that? Thanks for getting these posted!
I'll go check for you tomorrow. There are several good location for the engine connection. Just find a large bolt that is holding an engine component in place by the casing/housing of the component.
 
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mblouir
I'll go check for you tomorrow. There are several good location for the engine connection. Just find a large bolt that is holding an engine component in place by the casing/housing of the component.
That's your tensioner
 
  #71  
Old 07-25-2010, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
That's your tensioner
Thanks man!
 
  #72  
Old 04-02-2011, 12:05 AM
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one question do i leave all the factory wires intact or do i remove them?
 
  #73  
Old 04-02-2011, 08:14 AM
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leave them on there, you're just adding more wire to the grounds to decrease resistance.
 
  #74  
Old 04-29-2011, 03:15 PM
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Should i leave the stock battery + to alternator wire connected? i dont now. I also have the battery light on now. Grrr
 
  #75  
Old 04-29-2011, 06:16 PM
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Yes, unless you re-splice in the alternator sense wire.
 


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