Put together a little system not too long ago, but was looking more for convenience than anything. It's not terrible but it's not great by any means. I am wanting more out of it, though. Forgive me if I say anything stupid, but I've been trying to read up on several sites to take it all in. You guys are far more experienced so I thought I'd ask your opinion.

Here's what I have right now:
-Kenwood DDX512
-6.5" Alpine Type R comps
-Kenwood KAC-7204 2-ch
-MTX Thunderform w/sub and pre-amped
-2 layers of deadening on everything but roof

The rear speakers are deleted, 7204 is for the comps, and the MTX is just plug-n-play. The amp is located underneath the rear passenger side seat. The crossovers I have underneath the door lock panels on each side.

My plans are to redo as much as possible. Here's a short list of what I want to do for sure:
-Get a custom box for rear seats and new sub(s)
-Get two separate amps (2-ch for comps and mono for sub)
-Relocate amps and crossovers to back wall

What I'm not sure on:
-New HU? I originally got DD because it looks great, but I honestly rarely take advantage of it. I have a NUVI so I don't need NAV, never use Bluetooth, and don't need a rear cam (backup sensors). If I change it will likely be to a single din with something that gives me more equalizer settings. Single dins are cheaper, anyway.
-Speaker upgrade? I've seen many of you guys say nothing but good things about Rainbows. Would it be worth the price of upgrading the Type Rs or would I just be better off sending them more power?
-What sub setup? Would I be best off with one or two subs? 8" or 10"? I used to not want much, but after having my current system I want more on the low end. It was a poor choice for me to go the MTX route but like I said I was looking for convenience.
-Speaker wire? Would 10ga be fine for the comps?


My biggest question:
I'm not an audiophile by any means, but I do want more out of my system. That being said, would it be worth the cost for me to upgrade everything? I can sell my old stuff, but not for much. Would the difference in sound be noticeable enough to justify the cost?

I'm in the research stages right now and have been browsing old threads here and elsewhere like crazy trying to soak up information. I'm just looking for some opinions and recommendations from you guys.

 

If you wish to change to a single din, I strongly recommend going with an Alpine 9887, Pioneer deh-p880prs, or an Eclipse 7200. These decks all have enough processing to go "active". Then, get a 4 channel amp and run your components with active crossovers. You can get SO MUCH more out of your system by doing this. I use the 880prs and it has time alignment, active crossover networks, and 16 bands of equalization PER SIDE. This allows a ton of flexibility with tuning your system and it can sound fantastic. These decks aren't necessarily cheap, but keep on eye on classifieds forums at caraudio.com or diyma.com and you can find excellent deals on lightly used stuff from reputable guys.

Like I said, a 4 channel amp for the fronts is what you want for going active. 2 10" subs would be ideal to match a powerful front stage. A nice set of components for speakers and you are set. I'd do some good reading at diyma.com you can learn a lot about this kind of stuff.

If you want some help with specifics shoot me a PM as I've built several systems like what I am describing.

 

I agree with the 880 Pioneer. While ive never run anything active off it, nor taken advantage of the TA, the few experiences ive had with it were amazing. I also think the pioneer wins in looks and ease of use over the other two.

Those Type R's are great speakers, and will take a lot of power. Ive seen them take up to around 150 rms and still be okay.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. mSaLL I may send you a PM if I come up with some more in-depth questions--thank you for the help. I did come across your install thread over at DIYMA while browsing around.

If the Type R's would be good I'll stick with them (at least for now). I'll look into those HUs and go from there. I think I remember there being a way to run a passive setup in such a way that if I decided to go active later that it wouldn't be hard at all. I'm going to research that now.

 

...nvm

 

Little update...here's what I decided to change in my system. Like I said I was mainly concerned with more low-end. Also decided to stick with double din--just upgrade to all the features being included. I decided to get this stuff from just reading around on here and other sites.


Head Unit: Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT





Subwoofers:
2x10" JL Audio 10W3v3




Sub Box:
Fox Acoustic Custom-Built





Sub Amp
Kenwood eXcelon XR-1S






I will likely replace the components and 7204 in the future--but for now they are fine. It won't be hard to switch them out so it's staying on the table. Just gotta save up a little more. If I feel the 350W my XR-1S is sending each of the subs isn't enough I will upgrade it, too. It was a great deal, though, so I had to jump on it.

 

Here's everything that came in so far. I'm waiting on the FoxBox and then I'll put the amps in. Everything else is already in (HU, amps on back wall, new speaker wire, etc).

 

Amp Power Wires from Battery


Easiest way was for me to run it over wheel well to the grommet on rear passenger side


Still need to run cable sleeves over this but for now I'm fine with it


View from front to rear--running through frame


Crossover fits in here nicely. Ran all new speaker wire. Old speaker wire was pinched in door panel at arrow.


Took a poor shortcut last time and ran the wire from arrow to arrow. Got slightly pinched in weather stripping. No shortcuts this time. It was a B**** but I got it through here this time. Had to tape the wire to a screwdriver and poke it through.


Door sill trim removed---passenger speaker wire down passenger side.


Remove circled panel to get speaker wire from door into cab. Had to loosen fuse box to get room. Line shows path of speaker wire.


Grommet on rear passenger side. Dashed shows power cables and solid shows passenger speaker wire.


Ground connections after using wire cup brush.


Line shows path of RCA cables and remote turn-on lead for amp.


Remove circled panels and door sill trim for driver's side speaker wire. Arrow shows where I ran it the first time. This side was harder than the passenger side, but it's worth it not having pinched speaker wire.


Another pic showing route of RCAs and remote turn-on


Path of RCAs, remote turn-on, and driver's speaker wires over to amps.


Pic of amps all hooked up and mounted--wires not fixed yet.


Closer shot





Tied up wires--still a little more to do but mostly done


Closer shot


Rear carpet added back on with hole cut for amps


Closer


One more looking back

 

I managed to get out 95% of the dog hair with this powerful little hand-vac I picked up. I just need to put on the rubber gloves again to get in the nooks and crannies. Sorry for camera phone--it's all I had at the moment.



Before:




After

 

Put this in a new thread but since I decided to add to this one I'll put it here, too. Shots of the new HU.



Main home screen


Customizable secondary home screen--drag and drop up to 15 icons


NAV


AV Source Selection


FM Radio


Amazing iPod interface


Settings menu


Voice-activated controls


My view--Gryphon looks washed out but it's just really bright

 

Videos:


NAV didn't pick up too well since it's so dark inside the cab. It sets itself to night-mode when my headlights are on, so it dims the lighting and changes the background from white/tan to blue.



Just a short section of driving here in the first video. The drone towards the end is about as bad as it gets--and that's only with the radio off. Rear seats are out right now, too, so it's about 25% louder inside at the moment.
[youtube]clbBCcpdNQw[/youtube]



Two other videos. First is WOT for exhaust sound and second shows a few neat features on the head unit. For the second video if you look I turn the volume up to 16 (can't remember, but camera sound gets distorted anyway--in person it's still clear), but it goes up to 40.

Don't make fun of my accent, I'm a southern boy.
[youtube]2_SUnHoZoDw[/youtube]
[youtube]UlPyS7LcDW8[/youtube]

 

There, I hope you guys like pictures.


mSaLL and SunDevil, my next upgrade will be going active. I just don't have the time (nor the knowledge) to dedicate to it at the moment. That being said, I think staying passive is, for the moment, the best option for me. I'm still an audio nOOb.

After a good bit of research and when I get bored with this setup I'm going to hit you guys up for advice. Thanks!

 

Doesnt look to shabby. Definitely get something on that power wire ASAP! Whether it be split loom or techflex (correct name) or something. That is not safe at all brother. Other then that, not bad for DIY. Ive seen some horrors before, think i might start a thread tomorrow with some of the funnies ive seen.

Msall is definitely more knowledgeable on going active then i am. All i can really tell you about it is that your mids and tweets are run on their own channel instead of through a passive crossover. I just dont have the market for that type of setup in what i do.

 

Yeah I hear ya. Please do post that thread--I'm curious to see. The only reason I didn't do it yet is because that's how I ran it last time (when I took all those shortcuts) and it was just a little dusty when I pulled it out. It had been under there about a year or so.

I'll browse around today and see what I can find for it--I'll try to get something on it asap.

Thanks, man.

 

1/2 or 3/4 split loom would work. I know we sell it at work, but you can probably find something a lil stronger at home depot. I think Msall used something called techflex or something like that.