For those interested, I figured out how to have your radio stay on after you remove the key from the ignition until you open a door or wait 15 minutes, I think (maybe 10.)

This will work on 2000 model trucks equipped with power windows and probably 1999 trucks, too. I don't know what year this system was started, but my '97 didn't have it.

Ok, The wire you will be looking for is grey with black stripe. It is contained in the wire bundle that comes from the doors. The easiest place I found to get to it was on the passenger side under the dash access panel.

On the top of the dash, there is a long oval shaped molding between the defrost duct and the air bag module. This panel is held in place by about six spring clips. You should be able to get your fingernails under it and pop it out.

Now, between the front firewall and the air duct, there is a bundle of wires. This is the bundle that goes to the passenger side door. I was lucky and the wire in question was right on top. I cut the black tape away and pulled the wire out from the rest. I used an L-shaped pick to separate it out.

You probably should double check that this is the correct wire in your truck with a test light. Make sure you pick a good ground because all those nice shiny brackets under there are not grounded to the frame. (This had me stumped for a few minutes )

After you're sure this is the right wire, choose your method of splicing into it. I cut it, and put a male bullet on one end and a female bullet connector on the other. This way I can go back to stock if need be. I cut a short piece of wire and put the necessary connectors on it too, but added a lead wire out of one of the connectors. This wire needs to be about about 18" long and should be at least 18 AWG.

Pull your radio out, and fish the lead wire into the radio compartment. The upper right corner of the radio compartment is opened to the area where you splice the wire. Disconnect the red power (it may be called the accessory power wire on your radio) wire from the factory wiring harness. Tape up the truck side of the wire you just cut because it is hot when the ignition is on. Connect your new lead wire to the radio's power/acc. lead, and your done.

Test it by turning the key to the ON or ACC position then turning it off. Do this with the door closed. Your radio should have turned on and stayed on after removing the key (assuming it was still on when you last shut the truck off.) Now open the door, and the radio should shut down.

One note. You have to cut the power wire. I tried just splicing into it, but since the radio is drawing current, the relay won't disengage when you open the door and it stays on all the time.

I didn't think to take pictures will I was doing this, but if anyone isn't sure of the location of the wire bundle, let me know. I can snap a pic easily enough.

I really don't know why Ford didn't do this in the first place. They call it the Accessory Delay in the manual, but it only works with the power windows, go figure!

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2000 F150 XLT 4X4 Off Road 5.4L Reg. Cab 3.55

Performance Enhancemets:
K&N, WMS Velocity Tube, and Gibson Sweptside...

Audio Enhancements:
All of the above, plus
Sony C7000X HU, Cerwin-Vega SS2502 components(Front), and Blaupunkt PCst573s(Rear)
Radio-delay mod.

(For now)



[This message has been edited by F150Sven (edited 10-25-2000).]

 

Thank you for taking the time to look into this. I'm glad you were able to find the solution. For a while I thought I was the only one interested in having this feature. Looks like I'll be pullin' out the ol' multitester this weekend!

One question: do you get any electrical noise through the speakers when you roll the windows up/down after doing this?

Thanks again for your help.


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2000 F150 Lariat, 5.4L, 3.55 LS diff, class III tow package, K&N air filter, Flowmaster 40-series cat-back dual exhaust

 

If there is any noise at all, I can't here it over the sound of the windows rolling up and down. I don't here a pop, buzz, or anything.

I didn't even know about the accessory delay until I read your post the other day. Heck, I was turning the ignition back on when I forgot to roll up the windows! Thanks for pointing it out

 

Thanks for taking the time to figure this out. But, I'm not sure I understand.

You say you must "...cut the power wire. I tried just splicing into it, but since the radio is drawing current, the relay won't disengage when you open the door and it stays on all the time."

By "power wire" I assume you mean the gray/black wire you found under the dash.

Did you reconnect this wire w/ the "necessary connectors " or leave it open?

If you left it "open" Did you loose the delay window function on the passanger side?

------------------

• 1999 Super Cab XLT
• 2000 Windsor 5.4 ( slapper replaced)
• 3.55 Ratio L/S
• White/ Grey interior
  MODS
• Pioneer DEH P6000 HU w/ steering wheel remote
• Blaupunkt VC-54 component speakers (front)
• Infinity Refrence 5712cd 2-way Speakers (rear)
• Pioneer CDX P1250 12 disc changer
• Intake Silencer Removed
• LoJack Anti-Theft System
• Bug Deflector
• Aluminum Tool Box
• 2 Bull Ring Retractable Tie Down's
• Bed Mat
• Class III Receiver Hitch
• CCA Redfish Decal
• TTMB Sheepshead Decal

badangler@2coolfishing.com




[This message has been edited by BadAngler (edited 10-26-2000).]

 

I was refering to the existing power wire going to the radio. There are two separate wire cuttings. The grey/black wire to splice into and the red radio power to make things work properly.

The grey/black wire must be rejoined in some fashion to keep the use of the delay on the passenger door. Your radio power lead will connect to the wire splice, and the one cut wire left will be taped off.

Hope this clears thing up a little.



------------------
2000 F150 XLT 4X4 Off Road 5.4L Reg. Cab 3.55

Performance Enhancemets:
K&N
WMS Velocity Tube
Gibson Sweptside

Audio Enhancements:
All of the above, plus
Sony C7000X HU
Cerwin-Vega SS2502 components(Front)
Blaupunkt PCxp573s(Rear)

Radio-delay mod

(For now)

 

Oh I see (said the blind man) You tried to splice the "Pig tail" from the gray/black wire into the power/acc input to the radio and it didn't work. So you had to cut the power/acc wire to the radio, tape off one end (because it's hot) and connect the pig tail to the radio.

Now it makes perfect sense.

I must not had enough coffee yesterday. I can't wait to try this.

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

F150Sven:

I found the wire in the dash -- nice description for the location. To me, it looks more light blue w/black stripe than gray w/black stripe. I haven't tested to verify it yet, though. Problem is: I see no red wire leading to my radio. I've got orange... black... purple... red with black stripe... orange with red stripe... green with orange stripe... several others... lots of colors, but no red wire. None of the wires are labeled "power" or "accessory" or give any other clues. I have all original factory components (CD player). Do you have a different wiring harness in place for your Sony HU? Is there another way to tell which wire is the power?



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2000 F-150, 5.4L, 3.55 LS diff, class III tow package, K&N air filter, Flowmaster 40-series cat-back dual exhaust

lowcountrylariat@hotmail.com

 

LowCountry:
Try the Install Doctor @ http://www.installdr.com/QuickWiring.html
Warning: My experience has been that wire colors are sometimes different for no apparant reason. Recommend a multi-meter to check voltages. BOL


------------------
Fog Lights with parking lights .... how does he do it ?
https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000552.html

<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1023393&a=8790857&p=28542295&Sequence=1" TARGET=_blank> </A> <A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1023393&a=8790857&p=28542675&Sequence=2" TARGET=_blank> </A>

2001 F-150 Super Crew Lariat 4x4
5.4 engine; Chestnut w/ gold trim; Captain's Chairs; Ford/ Duraliner bed insert; Six disc CD changer (in center console); Fosgate FNP1614 component speakers (front); Pioneer TS-A6855 speakers (rear); 8 inch MTX sub in custom built, center console, sealed enclosure; ZAPCO AG150 amplifier; Moon roof; 98/99 Expedition center console; Bed extender; Class 3 trailer hitch




[This message has been edited by FedExPilot (edited 10-29-2000).]

 

You're probably right on the wire color. I could have went either way calling it lt. blue, grayish blue, or gray.

Let me know if you've found the radio wire yet. I got an adapter harness for my aftermarket head unit, so the wire may be a different color. I can pull the radio out and find the corresponding wire color in the factory harness if you haven't found it.

 

Thanks for the replies. Interestingly, none of the wiring diagrams on the Install Doctor site corresponds to my wiring harness, from what I can remember. I could be wrong, though -- I'll pull out the radio again next week to check on this. Otherwise I'll just go after it with the ol' multi-meter (ran out of time & patience yesterday).

------------------


2000 F-150, 5.4L, 3.55 LS diff, class III tow package, K&N air filter, Flowmaster 40-series cat-back dual exhaust

lowcountrylariat@hotmail.com

 

I finally got the time to go back out and finish this mod. It works great -- exactly what I wanted to do! I was even pleasantly surprised to find that the radio still works with the key in the "accessory" position. I never realized that the power windows would work with the key in the accessory position.

About the wires in the wiring harness: I was confused by the fact that my radio has a 2-piece wiring harness. I guess the 2nd harness is for an amplifier (?). If I do have an amplifier, I don't know where it is. I don't see it behind the heater controls as I have seen posted elsewhere on this board. Anyway, the main harness is exactly as depicted on the Install Doctor website:



O (black/pink stripe) = +12V radio power (switched by the key)

P (green/black stripe) = +12V clock power (always on)

I hope this clarifies your otherwise excellent description on how to do this mod.



------------------


2000 F-150, 5.4L, 3.55 LS diff, class III tow package, K&N air filter, Flowmaster 40-series cat-back dual exhaust

lowcountrylariat@hotmail.com

 

Low Country Lariat:

About the wires in the wiring harness: I was confused by the fact that my radio has a 2-piece wiring harness. I guess the 2nd harness is for an amplifier (?). If I do have an amplifier, I don't know where it is. I don't see it behind the heater controls as I have seen posted elsewhere on this board.

I lost sleep over this same thing when I swaped my stock radio for my Pioneer DEH-9200. At first I didn't install the Pioneer for fear of screwing with the wiring but then I thought about what the second plug could be and I think I figured it out. I didn't order my truck with the 6 cd changer (although I wish I had) and therefore noticed no differnce when the plug was connected or unconnected (I tested with the stock radio unplugging and re plugging the second plug). I THINK the second bundle is for the CD changer which I don't have so I don't have to plug it in.

Hope this helps
Jimmar

[This message has been edited by Jimmar (edited 04-04-2001).]

 

There are some additional features to the factory radio that the 2nd bundle may be responsible for... For example, I recently found out about the speed-sensitive volume control:

Stock Radio Fun Fact! Speed Sensing Vol...

I assume at least one of those extra wires must sense the speedometer. I actually need one that senses Flowmaster dB level.