finally finished my system.. now i am doing big three,got the battery-to chasis, battery - to starter/tranny bolt on starter,tere is a ground that wraps around front of engine back to frame, did that,,now there is one more it is on the back of the head,and goes up to the firewall, does this one need upgraded as well it is a mf to get to??? lastly the alt to battery + should it be fused since the stock has fuse links? if so what size?

 

now there is one more it is on the back of the head,and goes up to the firewall, does this one need upgraded as well it is a mf to get to???

 

The only ones I was aware of were the following:

Battery (-) to Ground bolt
Battery (+) to Alternator (+) fused
Alternator (-) to Ground bolt
Chassis (-) to Frame Ground bolt

Those are the ones that I know of as included in the "big 3 or 4"

 

yep, i found another grond that is bolted to the back of the passenger side head, then goes up 16" to the firewall directly above

 

alternator doesnt have a -. it uses the case for ground, which is mounted to engine
not to be a smart a$$

 

The only ones I upgraded to 0awg for now are the frame to chassy and chassy to battery. the ones dealing with the alternator wont really do anything until the alternator is upgraded.

 

thanks. i will leave it

 

:o Ya I was going off of another guys thread. I have been getting all of my stuff together to install and was only beginning to research that thanks for letting me know though.

 

want to go with

Alternator (-) to Ground bolt
Chassis (-) to Frame Ground bolt

 

does anyone know what size alt comes in our trucks or do they vary? Also, since the Alt case is grounded to the bracket, should I even bother grounding the case to the battery?

As far as batteries, has anyone added an extra battery? Or have you just upgraded to a bigger bat? If so, what kind? If I were to purchase an additional battery, I don't even know where the hell I would put it. lol, my only option would be in my toolbox

 

my alt is a 110.. no need to ground the case to battery.. i just added a 600 hc kinetic to my suv and a pac 200 battery isolator..i am running just my sub amp off of it, made a HUGE difference, the voltage has no drop, i can absolutely run the hell out of the 12,s now and the dome light dont even dim. i can put full power out now and it is insane. i will be adding one to the f150, it is the cure for light dim and voltage issues, the 600hc is 3" deep, so it could fit behind the seat, it is sealed non acid and can be in the cab..with ur dd,s if ur having volt issues, do the grounds, add a second battery for ur sub amp, it will fix it. dont forget the isolator

 

are you sure you have a 110 amp alt jjdh mine has a 130 in it and the same year model as yours.
Blackfx4 you can fit 2 batteries in the stock location with a little bit of customization.
if you get smaller batteries than stock it isnt to hard to make em fit the ones in this pic are a little bigger than the stock size batt but just cheap batts from wally world and helped out the power issues i was having of the volts dropping to around 10v when the subs hit now it just drops to about 13.6 v on full tilt. now just need a dual alt kit or high amp alt to finnish it off.

 

Wonderful,thanks guys, this definitely gives me some options. Thats a hell of a deal turning them sideways under the hood. It makes since. I woulnt suppose it would be necessary to fuse between batts under the hood since they are so close.

 

no you dont have to fuse between them just wire them up in paraell + to + and - to -. you will have to make a bracket for them they dont fit in the stock batt holder.

 

i could be wrong about the 110 jr. i will have to recheck that