Kick panel removal?
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 243
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From: Georgia
Kick panel removal?
Does anyone have pics or info on removing the kick panels for installing crossovers? I'm going to order a set of component speakers and have read that this is the best place to mount them for wiring and moisture considerations. I'd like to keep everything in the door but I'm worried about water damaging the crossover. I ordered baffles to protect the speakers. Does anyone know how I can mount the cross's in the door and keep them dry?
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Stock Stuff:
Y2K SCab 4X4, Chesnut Metallic, 5.4L, 3.55 Limited Slip, Skid Plates, Factory AM/FM/CD, 40/60 Split Bench, Sliding Rear Window, Towing Package and Keyless Entry.
Extras so far:
305/70X16 GY Wrangler ATS, American Eagle Series 146 chrome wheels, K&N filter, Blaupunkt Houston CD player, Blaupunkt P652c & PCxt573 speakers, Catch-All floor mats, tinted windows to match factory rear glass, Bull Ring retractable tie-downs, www.f150online.com sticker below center brake light. University of Georgia hitch cover "GO DAWGS!"
Future plans (the good stuff):
Airbox/FIPK mod, Flowmaster 40 Series muffler and stainless exaust tip, spray in liner (or Herculiner haven't decided), stainless nerf bars, hood deflector.
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Stock Stuff:
Y2K SCab 4X4, Chesnut Metallic, 5.4L, 3.55 Limited Slip, Skid Plates, Factory AM/FM/CD, 40/60 Split Bench, Sliding Rear Window, Towing Package and Keyless Entry.
Extras so far:
305/70X16 GY Wrangler ATS, American Eagle Series 146 chrome wheels, K&N filter, Blaupunkt Houston CD player, Blaupunkt P652c & PCxt573 speakers, Catch-All floor mats, tinted windows to match factory rear glass, Bull Ring retractable tie-downs, www.f150online.com sticker below center brake light. University of Georgia hitch cover "GO DAWGS!"
Future plans (the good stuff):
Airbox/FIPK mod, Flowmaster 40 Series muffler and stainless exaust tip, spray in liner (or Herculiner haven't decided), stainless nerf bars, hood deflector.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 0
From: Waltham Ma.
Onemilmhz,
Thee kick panels are real easy to remove.
1st remove the door sill, by pulling stright up.
2nd pull the weather stripping away
3rd the kick panels just pop right off, there are two clips that hold them on. Pull them back towards the rear of the truck.
Thats it peice of cake.
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1999 F150 4x4 4.6V8 regcab/shortbed
Oxford White with Wedgewood Blue two tone, with Blue Captains chairs
Bullet Cat Back, Superchip, K&N FIPK Intake.
Centerline Saber rims 17x8" with Firestone GTA 275/60hr-17 tires.
Alpine CDA-7845, ADS P640 Amp, Focal Poly Kevlar seperates.
[This message has been edited by Don C (edited 09-11-2000).]
Thee kick panels are real easy to remove.
1st remove the door sill, by pulling stright up.
2nd pull the weather stripping away
3rd the kick panels just pop right off, there are two clips that hold them on. Pull them back towards the rear of the truck.
Thats it peice of cake.
------------------
1999 F150 4x4 4.6V8 regcab/shortbed
Oxford White with Wedgewood Blue two tone, with Blue Captains chairs
Bullet Cat Back, Superchip, K&N FIPK Intake.
Centerline Saber rims 17x8" with Firestone GTA 275/60hr-17 tires.
Alpine CDA-7845, ADS P640 Amp, Focal Poly Kevlar seperates.
[This message has been edited by Don C (edited 09-11-2000).]
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Pompano Beach, FL
ONE,
Glad to see your gonna do it that way. Just remember, you don't even have to mount those crossovers if you don't want to. As long as you cover your speaker connections so as nothing can short them out, you can just tuck those suckers anywhere they will fit and don't rattle. Use velcro, double sided tape, or nothing at all. My theory is, if you don't have to put holes in the metal with screws, don't.
And for all you picky people out that read this, NO I'm not a hack installer. Sometimes it just saves a lot of sweat and makes sense to install things as easy as possible, but still doing it right. It also makes maintenance and changes to your system easy in the future.
Glad to see your gonna do it that way. Just remember, you don't even have to mount those crossovers if you don't want to. As long as you cover your speaker connections so as nothing can short them out, you can just tuck those suckers anywhere they will fit and don't rattle. Use velcro, double sided tape, or nothing at all. My theory is, if you don't have to put holes in the metal with screws, don't.
And for all you picky people out that read this, NO I'm not a hack installer. Sometimes it just saves a lot of sweat and makes sense to install things as easy as possible, but still doing it right. It also makes maintenance and changes to your system easy in the future.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Boss,
I never thought about using velcro. That would make upgrades down the road a snap! I was worried about screwing them into the sheet metal behind the kick panel anyway. That's a great tip! Thanks for all your help on this project. I've really learned a lot.
I never thought about using velcro. That would make upgrades down the road a snap! I was worried about screwing them into the sheet metal behind the kick panel anyway. That's a great tip! Thanks for all your help on this project. I've really learned a lot.