Low E could help you WAY better on pricing than I could, but....


Does that 12v need to be switched or not? Im not even sure if the PowerPoint in these trucks are switched or constant:o I usually never tap into cig lighters or power points just because I run some fairly higher current things off them as it is...

As far as the big 3...It could need it, could not. Will it help?? Most likely... Will it be a noticable difference? I doubt it as I dont think that amp will pull enough current to cause a big problem, but it could I guess.... Only way to know for sure is to get it all installed and see if you get any light dimmage or voltage drops.


Texas, Big3 is upgrading the stock wiring in these three spots, usually up to 1/0 wire...
1. Larger batt+ to alternator
2. Larger batt- to chassis
3. Larger engine to chassis ground (alternator ground)

 

Domestics = Constant (usually)
Imports = Switched.

It very well could need the big 3/4. The gains that can be made in the power dept alone is worth the upgrade... (I need to do mine...) Anyone have about 7 ft of white and blue tsunami 1/0? Ill pay good for it.

 

DVD - 99
Nav(if there) - 49 - 99
Custom plate for spks - 3 customs
2 spk - 40
Component - 65
5ch - 100
Sirius - 75
New Batt - 4 Customs. (Because you are supposed to have a ARE cert to replace the primary battery. Id hide the illegality of it w/ money...)
Custom front door spk run - 5-6 customs
Custom Rear door run - 3-4 customs
Big 3/4 - 3-4 customs.

1 Custom = 12.99-20.99

4ga Amp kit 75-115
12ga 30 ft @ .75-1.25 ft
16ga 15 ft @ .50-.99 ft
8 ga 5 ft @ 1.00-2.00ft.

This really all depends on the salesman/installer. You **** me off Ill charge the mess out of you. I like you I MIGHT be lienient. This is all 25% +/-. May be up to 50% less. If you come in to my shop and know me from the forums Id take good care of you. Maybe even do it off the clock for cheap... But with this perception is everything.

 

thanks for the estimate. i really would like to try to do it myself, but it is all scary. i think i could do it myself , with help searching threads and other resources. i know a couple of people who have installed stuff here and there, but i guess i need to quit being lazy, and do it myself. best way to learn i suppose.

i know a couple of guys around here, i guess i could drive around and get an estimate from them. plus a car toys or someting i dunno.

 

Didnt ever realize that.

 

Hey Low, man I need a little bit more help - if you don't mind. I finally had a chance to get by the audio store and get an estimate. I did like you recommended and didn't act like I knew everything, but didn't act clueless either. It seemed to work great - the salesman and I got along great and the price he gave me was dead on your estimate - roughly $1000.

He showed me pics of other installs and mentioned things they do that are nice touches - ex. they have their MDF baffles rhino lined for moisture protection. They seem top notch, but I have a few questions about somethings he said/recommended.

1. He recommended running the front comps bi-amped and running 16ga. wire. Not sure if I should bi-amp or just run bridged. Also I was thinking that at 80+ watts I would need larger than 16 ga. wire?

2. He recommended all Stinger products - speaker, power wire, rcas etc. Are they a good product?

3. When asked about sound deadening He said they carry Stinger Roadkill. Is that comparable to Dynamat Extreme, Second Skin, etc.

4. If the wire size is wrong or these products are inferior - how do get them to use the better choice without pissing them off?

5. And finally since I will be using the Alpine 9886 HU he said I had the option of using the Imprint calibration system for an extra charge. If you are familiar with it - is it worth having done?

Thanks and sorry for the long post.

 

That was long??

Awesome, glad things worked out. But you needed to get things done that day. Prices tend to go up if you leave.

MDF baffles rhino lined... NICE!! but make sure they are doing the whole baffle not just the front... Cutting corners can happen very quick in the shop. But as for moisture protection it really works. A friend of mine used to work at a shop that rhino-lined a doughnut. Its still there no stink no nothing 11.5 years later...

1) Bi-amped. As far as I know its best if you are going with active processing and/or JL slash amps. And yes 16 is perfect for that you are running maybe 10amps through that wire. 12ga is SERIOUSLY overkill, think what is used for 500w on a sub. 12ga.

2) Stinger is great stuff. Not as good as it was a year ago though... RF wire is better. But yes I would love stinger in my truck.

3) Xtreme is a tad bit better. But overall you will not know the difference.

4) You dont need to. But just ask for bigger. He prolly wont argue too much. Bigger wire is more expensive.

5) In order to have the IMPRINT calibration you need the PXI-H100. If you can buy one there DO IT!!! DONT ASK QUESTIONS EITHER.

P.S. My post is longer... lol.

 

that's great!

 

Thanks, Low. I would have had it done that day but I'm still waiting on some of my equipment to come in. He didn't offer me the chance to purchase a PXI device. He just said that for a $65 charge they would calibrate the setup using the 9886's Imprint technology. So I'm guessing they have a PXI and just use it to calibrate customer cars.

So, everything looks good. I just thought that I had read somewhere that I should run 12 ga. to the front comps. So you would bi-amp a set of Rainbow Germs at 80W per channel vs. powering them bridged somewhere between 250W to 300W.

 

Once the PXI is disconnected the Imprint is lost (as far as I know... not 100% sure though). P.S. Buy your own!

12 ga is overkill. I would get an amp that powers each at its desired RMS with one channel. 1 door = 1 channel. 4 doors = 4 channels.... I wouldnt bridge or biamp.

 

You like that?? I did enjoy it. But yes I would do. CCitys problem not mine