calling KC autosound
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
calling KC autosound
im wondering what the reliability of the code alarms with remote start is. the entire line gets bashed pretty hard on some hardcore audio forums and since you deal with them a lot i wanted to get your opinion. In the past ive used mostly Clifford and Autopage; and I think i had an UNGO (Clarion division)at one time. I really want to keep the keypad on my door since I like to leave my keys in the truck if I am at the pool, river, working out, running, etc. Some people dont understand why you would want to keep something like that b/c they never use it, i on the other hand use my keypad constantly. Ive read some horror stories of the code alarm units failing and something with the pats bypass/starter kill function locking up being pretty common. I dont want to spend the money to have an alarm installed if its going to leave me stranded. Whats your take on the units, what unit should i go with, and how much money am I looking at for the unit with whatever is needed to make my keypad work? thanks for the help
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
Sorry if this is too long.
Us alarm installers have a saying. “An alarm is only as good as it's installed.” I'm not going to bash on alarms. I can't see why people would bash on the Code. They have been a great product for me. Open up all your leading brand ones and right next to them open up some of the off brand ones. You'll see they share a lot of the same parts. The problem with alarms is most always the installation. People take short cuts. They grab a low current power wires or have too many circuits running off of one power line. They use a poor grounding point. The list goes on. It’s the same as any audio system installation. Do the amp install right... it'll work forever. Occasionally you have an actual "bad product". It happens. I can tell you in over 300 Code Alarm systems sold or installed in the past year or even ones from the years prior I have had to do a warranty replacement or repair on maybe five systems. That's pretty good numbers.
On the Ford Accessory end I rarely have to repair any of my installations in the years that I have been doing them. If I do it’s due to the Ford securelock interfaces key. The newer ones we use are slightly better. During the week I am probably repairing at least 3 or more systems that someone else had installed. Usually a vehicle that the dealer had their mechanic try to install one or whatever.
Vehicle security and remote start systems are kind of a art. When I interview a person for an installation job I don’t ask how many stereos they installed. I want to know the real stuff. How are you on a alarm or remote starter? Can you wire diodes? Do you know relays and how they work? How do you make your connections? "Is that a bag of T-tap crimp connectors I see in your tool box?" "Get the hell out of here!" lol Seriously installing a security system or remote start is a totally different monster.
As for the systems I recommended. It really comes down to preference. Obviously any alarm will work. It's more of what conveniences or features you want.
The one feature that sets the Code Alarm Elite series systems apart from the others is the ability to use the door keypad to operate the alarm system. The Code Elite systems also feature the telematics port which allows you to add the Car-Link module. This module allows you to arm/lock, disarm/unlock, remote start, and activate the car-finder feature using a telephone from anywhere in the world. Just simply call the 1-800 number and enter your information and send the signal. Thirty seconds later your truck is running in the parking lot. Works great for buildings that you are simply too far away or your remote control signal can't get to the vehicle. Satellite always gets it done.
Due out hopefully in the next month or are going to be the new SRT systems from Code. These systems will feature a 900mhz antenna that gives you a 1 mile range. They will come in three types. The basic non-2way system, dot matrix screen 2way and then a top of the line TFT video screen remote that is capable of operating up to four vehicles. Ofcourse additional system will need to be purchased.
As for the pats bypass/starter kill function locking up. I've never had one do that. I have had the starter kill not work because the power to the system was out from a blown fuse. The older Code and Ford systems had a starter kill that would that that because they looped through the system. They now feature a passive starter kill that allows the starter wire to work regardless if the unit has power or not. Personally I do not connect starter kill unless its a vehicle that does not have a PATS key. If that thief is smart enough to get past the coded key then hooking a starter wire back up is not a problem. I hate cutting ignition wires in half. The bypass module I use is the XK04 bypass module. This module connects directly into the vehicles PATS reader wiring thus sending a 100% signal into the reader. Plus there is no key to hide under the dash.
The nice thing about the new Ford vehicles is that they have the anti-grind circuit. What's so great about it is that because of this you can set the remote start system up to over crank the vehicle. The code systems allow you to run the system in tachless sensing with a pre-set crank time of 2 or more seconds. It will basically crank the engine till it starts and after it starts you don't run the risk of grinding the starter. Thus no reason to run the tach wire to the engine. With the XK04 sending a perfect signal to the PATS reader and a guaranteed crank to start you will have it starting every time.
Us alarm installers have a saying. “An alarm is only as good as it's installed.” I'm not going to bash on alarms. I can't see why people would bash on the Code. They have been a great product for me. Open up all your leading brand ones and right next to them open up some of the off brand ones. You'll see they share a lot of the same parts. The problem with alarms is most always the installation. People take short cuts. They grab a low current power wires or have too many circuits running off of one power line. They use a poor grounding point. The list goes on. It’s the same as any audio system installation. Do the amp install right... it'll work forever. Occasionally you have an actual "bad product". It happens. I can tell you in over 300 Code Alarm systems sold or installed in the past year or even ones from the years prior I have had to do a warranty replacement or repair on maybe five systems. That's pretty good numbers.
On the Ford Accessory end I rarely have to repair any of my installations in the years that I have been doing them. If I do it’s due to the Ford securelock interfaces key. The newer ones we use are slightly better. During the week I am probably repairing at least 3 or more systems that someone else had installed. Usually a vehicle that the dealer had their mechanic try to install one or whatever.
Vehicle security and remote start systems are kind of a art. When I interview a person for an installation job I don’t ask how many stereos they installed. I want to know the real stuff. How are you on a alarm or remote starter? Can you wire diodes? Do you know relays and how they work? How do you make your connections? "Is that a bag of T-tap crimp connectors I see in your tool box?" "Get the hell out of here!" lol Seriously installing a security system or remote start is a totally different monster.
As for the systems I recommended. It really comes down to preference. Obviously any alarm will work. It's more of what conveniences or features you want.
The one feature that sets the Code Alarm Elite series systems apart from the others is the ability to use the door keypad to operate the alarm system. The Code Elite systems also feature the telematics port which allows you to add the Car-Link module. This module allows you to arm/lock, disarm/unlock, remote start, and activate the car-finder feature using a telephone from anywhere in the world. Just simply call the 1-800 number and enter your information and send the signal. Thirty seconds later your truck is running in the parking lot. Works great for buildings that you are simply too far away or your remote control signal can't get to the vehicle. Satellite always gets it done.
Due out hopefully in the next month or are going to be the new SRT systems from Code. These systems will feature a 900mhz antenna that gives you a 1 mile range. They will come in three types. The basic non-2way system, dot matrix screen 2way and then a top of the line TFT video screen remote that is capable of operating up to four vehicles. Ofcourse additional system will need to be purchased.
As for the pats bypass/starter kill function locking up. I've never had one do that. I have had the starter kill not work because the power to the system was out from a blown fuse. The older Code and Ford systems had a starter kill that would that that because they looped through the system. They now feature a passive starter kill that allows the starter wire to work regardless if the unit has power or not. Personally I do not connect starter kill unless its a vehicle that does not have a PATS key. If that thief is smart enough to get past the coded key then hooking a starter wire back up is not a problem. I hate cutting ignition wires in half. The bypass module I use is the XK04 bypass module. This module connects directly into the vehicles PATS reader wiring thus sending a 100% signal into the reader. Plus there is no key to hide under the dash.
The nice thing about the new Ford vehicles is that they have the anti-grind circuit. What's so great about it is that because of this you can set the remote start system up to over crank the vehicle. The code systems allow you to run the system in tachless sensing with a pre-set crank time of 2 or more seconds. It will basically crank the engine till it starts and after it starts you don't run the risk of grinding the starter. Thus no reason to run the tach wire to the engine. With the XK04 sending a perfect signal to the PATS reader and a guaranteed crank to start you will have it starting every time.
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 50
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From: North Dakota
Originally Posted by Impact9
Travis I just sent a email to you through the forums. Some reason your website contact me form doesn't like me too much.
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
swani, did you put in the computer yourself? any build info on all the electronics and specs on the computer with internet access...im looking at doing something like that with my screw
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 50
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From: North Dakota
Originally Posted by south_ms_sprcru
swani, did you put in the computer yourself? any build info on all the electronics and specs on the computer with internet access...im looking at doing something like that with my screw
But I am having my buddy take more pics up close and get me a little more info on it. I will post them and send you a message when I get it.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
Hey sorry guys for the delay in email answers. Last week we were on a family vacation for a week in Branson, Mo. Very limited computer usage and phone call answering. WIFE'S ORDERS!!! This week has been crazy with about 4 custom full audio installations and then the Ford Accessory installations were backed up for a week. Just been buried with work. To top it off I spent all last night at the hospital till 6am this morning with the family. Mother in law was rushed by ambulance from home. She had stopped breathing and her sugar and blood pressure was very high. She's much better now. I am going to sit down later and answer all emails. I have quite a few that have accumulated in just a few days and Sunday is going to be email day.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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Well I can say that I have purchased 2 code alarms from Travis for a 2006 f150 and a 2003 f150 and a complete speakers and a amp set up for the 06. I had some problems but Travis was always there to help me out.We can call up the trucks and start them and other features.We have had nothing but great things to say about code alarm and KC AUTOSOUND.
