Ok, since I got my new player my lights dim when it gets playin low and sorta loud, and the light on my player dims all the time. So I'm kinda thinkin a gettin a capacitor, but I just need some questions asnwered. First, do i really need a cap, are the lights dimming gonna do much as far as runnin my battery down or things like that? Also, when they say its for 500 watt systems, is that peak or RMS. My amp is 300 RMS (900 peak) so would i need a .5 farad one for only 500 watts, or a 1 farad one for 1000 watts?
Also, what is a good brand? I need something low cost, but good

 

Don't buy a cap !!!! It won't fix your problem...What is your "player " to start...What's your set up? Correct gauge wire going to the amp?Grounded well? More info needed first...

Read your sig....What are you running for a power wire?

 

Haha, cd "player" shoulda been more specific there, sorry.

I just read all the time that a cap will fix that since it will pull the extra power from the power the cap stored up when it needs extra power.

I have 10 gauge wire made by Directed Ilectronics INC.

It never did it before, and I spose it could be grounded a little better.

Ahh, what else ya'll need to know?

 

Capacitors are a very controversial thing. When the lights dim, there is certainly a voltage drop, BUT that doesn't mean a capacitor is the answer. Like ROUSHFAN-1 suggested, you may have other issues. Also, as far as your audio system, a slight voltage drop will not cause any problem that is audible. If it wasn't for the lights you wouldn't even realize what was happening. I find it hard to believe with your system that you would need a cap. If it is used and not really necessary, it's nothing but an extra load on your alternator. There are other ways to get lights to quit dimming. I've even heard of people using a capacitor, but putting it very close to the lights instead of near the amp. The voltage from the cap will then be more effective in "helping" the light problem when there is a drop in voltage. I've never tried that myself, but that's the reasoning behind it. The current will never stray, it will always follow the path of least resistance. So stategically placing capacitors and other devices can have an effect.

 

Well my view of the situation is that a cap will help keep your voltage from dips from being as drastic. Will this help stable you voltage level? Yes. Will it keep your lights from dimming? Possibly.

Just like Roush and 97f250 have stated it is a widely debated topic.

The short, if your charging system is in good shape and your battery is in good shape then you really shouldn't need a cap and the benefits of adding it is nominal. If your alternator is of somewhat low output then a cap could help with on demand draws provided they are in very short duration (like a kick drum). The fact is that a cap will increase output of the amp during peak demand. It will more than likely not be audible in most cases.

Anyway, I don't really feel like getting into another long debate over the benefit of adding a cap. If your charging system is in good shape adding a cap could be a good solution to stabilize voltage. But if your charging system is the problem then spend the money to correct it since it will have an overall larger impact on performance.

 

You have it bridged to 300X1 I would assume?....I think the #10 might be a little too small...Check your ground again,and the rest of your connections....Tight ? As stated a cap is not the way to go yet...You only have one amp,so the draw isn't that huge on your stock system,your alt should take it o.k. .......I think it's your amp wireing..

 

Ya its bridged. I will check over everything, connections and such.
I was kinda thinking that 10 gauge was small, but that is what Crutchfield said to use, and thats what the guy gave me, so I just took it.

I know my battery might need replaced, and my alternator is a high output or heavy duty one, something like that. thanks guys

 

correct me if im wrong but your system only runs off your battery when the truck/car isnt started right? When you truck is running then the system is running off the alternator correct? IF thats true why do people say that its their battery that could use a replacing when they gets dimming lights, etc???

 

cdiddy,

The reason that it could be possible that you have a weak battery causing the trouble is as follows. When your battery becomes weakened. Meaning enough voltage and amperage to start your truck but yet still creating a draw on the alternator while running. The weak battery will also take away from surplus voltage/amperage available while the truck is running. In other words strong battery and good alternator and you should see about 13.6-14.6 volts. If the battery is weaker or smaller than it should be yor voltage will drop and not only cause your alternator to prematurely wear out but also it will cause lights to dim, poor performance and a multitude of other things.

It is really all about maintaining the voltage and the weak battery will act as an additional load on the alternator. One test that you could conduct would be to start the truck and remove the battery terminal while it is running to see if the condition gets better or worse. If it gets better than you know your battery is presenting a load to the alternator.

 

I dont have any problems with my battery, alt etc...i was always currious on that subject thats all!
I use a cap in my system and have never had any problems with dimming lights or anything of that sorts and i run 2 amps, 2 tvs, dvd player...etc

 

This type of test was OK years ago on systems with mechanical voltage regulators. DO NOT DO this on any vehicle that has an electronic voltage regulator as you MAY have a voltage spike that will cause serious damage to very expensive electronics.

 

10 gauge wire is a little small. I have a 300 watt amp and 8 gauge wire and never had a problem with lights dimming. Here is my question though. When you use a dc capacitor with an amp it acts as a short till it charges up, which only takes a few seconds. Once it charges up the capacitor acts as an open and the amp feeds off the capacitor until the capacitor drains. Is my thinking correct. Is that why a capacitor takes some of the load off the electrical system. Btw I get 14.9 volts to my amp when the truck is cranked. It is a little higher than 14.6.

 

97,
Thanks for the heads up. Haven't ever had a problem testing my alternator that way but I will avoid doing that just to be on the safe side. It is easy enough just to check the battery the correct way (using a hydrometer).

Invalid,
The nature of a cap is to resist voltage changes. This is why people started using them in the first place. They do not cause an extra heavy load to the electrical system as some people think. As far as when they discharge and act as a dead short goes, well that is simply impossible if the battery is good and the vehicle is running since the battery never actually let's the cap drop below it's charged voltage.

 

For starters the ground to any amp should consist of a adequate size wire under 18" long that has a soldered/crimped lug with an absolute contact to bare metal and a bolt holding it down. I use a small grinder but coarse sand paper and some elbow grease would do the trick. Cover with petroleum jelly to prevent rust once the bolt is cranked down.

The best thing you can do to HELP prevent dimming from happening and to make your amp more happy than any cap would be the "Magic 3" upgrade to your voltage system.

1- alt + to batt +

2 - batt - to engine ground

3 - engine ground to chassis

I would replace the battery terminals, and run at least 4 gauge if not 1/0 to all those connections. I would run at least 4 gauge back to the amp from the battery just because a system is only as good as it's weakest link. The new terminals make changing everything out much easier and look real nice.

If your running a high power deck, you might also want to look into running a wire from your battery to the deck's constant on lead at least 10 gauge.

I Magic 3'd my 04 and there was what looked like 2 pieces of 12 gauge fuse link between my battery and alternator. It comes off the battery and into the alternator with 4 gauge. I'm running around 1300 RMS and my lights don't dim at all with no cap. I have 1/0 gauge throughout with 4 gauge running into 2 amps off a fused block that are no longer than 18"-22" long.

 

"For starters the ground to any amp should consist of a adequate size wire under 18" long..."

Hi. Can you explain why you think it should be under 18" long?

To the original poster, can you post a photo of your ground connection? I don't think a 300 watt amp would really cause a light dimming problem for you (assuming everything is hooked up right and you don't have 10 off-road lights running, heater going, horn blowing and power windows and door locks all running at the same time) :-)