Need help!!! door wire routing
#1
Need help!!! door wire routing
I'm installing new 6.5 MB quarts in the door s and wiring them to my new Eclipse 2 channel amp, I would like to have new 14-16 ga wire into each door, but I need some help/tips
I know the factory wire can handle the amount of power I am working. It's just I feel it's much better to use fresh, quality wire after I worked so hard to get the doors sound dampened and speakers installed. Pass. side is done but how the hell can you get a wire into the driver side door. The friggin parking brake is totally in the way. I thought I would pull it off but I can't get to all the mounting bolts and that would prove to be very time consuming to tear apart. I've tried going from both ends, coat hangers, weed eater string, pulling the boot off, fingers, etc. Nothing works. I can't even see where the wires goe once the hit the outside wall of the cab. Are they between the two layers of cab wall, do they go up into the dash? Come on guys I need some really good tips and advice here.
signed...
pissed and confused in Kentucky
I know the factory wire can handle the amount of power I am working. It's just I feel it's much better to use fresh, quality wire after I worked so hard to get the doors sound dampened and speakers installed. Pass. side is done but how the hell can you get a wire into the driver side door. The friggin parking brake is totally in the way. I thought I would pull it off but I can't get to all the mounting bolts and that would prove to be very time consuming to tear apart. I've tried going from both ends, coat hangers, weed eater string, pulling the boot off, fingers, etc. Nothing works. I can't even see where the wires goe once the hit the outside wall of the cab. Are they between the two layers of cab wall, do they go up into the dash? Come on guys I need some really good tips and advice here.
signed...
pissed and confused in Kentucky
#2
Heres a little 12v installer trick you know Zip ties"wire ties" well there are some real long ones used in HVAC work but are sold most anywhere which are about 24" long I cut off the locking part and drill two holes in the end feed the wire through the holes then feed the zip tie through the boots. This trick is good for feeding wire through headliners, firewalls, under carpeting etc.
#4
My truck is a 2001.. it was work but I got 12 AWG wire through there. You DON'T need to remove the brake assembly to do it either. You might try going through the door first and then into the cab. Also try removing the rubber tube that holds the wires from the cab side.. this will let you feed the wires straight through and you can put it back on when you're done.
I have pretty big hands and I could fit my hand behind the brake assembly and feel the hole to pull the wire through. It took me some time, frustration, persistence, and some cuts on my hand but I finally got it pulled through.
Stick with it and keep trying different ideas. You might try using a coat hangar or more rigid piece of wire or the long tie wrap idea to feed through and then pull the wire through.
I have pretty big hands and I could fit my hand behind the brake assembly and feel the hole to pull the wire through. It took me some time, frustration, persistence, and some cuts on my hand but I finally got it pulled through.
Stick with it and keep trying different ideas. You might try using a coat hangar or more rigid piece of wire or the long tie wrap idea to feed through and then pull the wire through.
#6
I used the coathanger trick in my situation. I went from inside the door with one hanger and managed to get the wire to where I could spot it behind the brake bracket. It helped to use a flashlight. I then used another coathanger with a hook bent on the end to snag the wiring and pull it to where I could grab it. Major pain, but it's possible.
#7
Originally posted by TEK2000
My truck is a 2001.. it was work but I got 12 AWG wire through there. You DON'T need to remove the brake assembly to do it either. You might try going through the door first and then into the cab. Also try removing the rubber tube that holds the wires from the cab side.. this will let you feed the wires straight through and you can put it back on when you're done.
Stick with it and keep trying different ideas. You might try using a coat hangar or more rigid piece of wire or the long tie wrap idea to feed through and then pull the wire through.
My truck is a 2001.. it was work but I got 12 AWG wire through there. You DON'T need to remove the brake assembly to do it either. You might try going through the door first and then into the cab. Also try removing the rubber tube that holds the wires from the cab side.. this will let you feed the wires straight through and you can put it back on when you're done.
Stick with it and keep trying different ideas. You might try using a coat hangar or more rigid piece of wire or the long tie wrap idea to feed through and then pull the wire through.
Everything is installed and I think everything is wired right but I still have problems. When I turn it on all I get is a loud buzz or a roar, kinda has a reverb sound to it too. I'm thinking it's something to do with the Eclipse headunit I have, as the back speakers fail to play and they are still the OE speaker and wire. I did have my neg and pos from amp to crossover backwars on one side but that is now fixed. Did I damage something?
I do know my model (cd 5441) has a system selector switch on the back that is set according to if you have amps, DSP, EQ, crossover's etc. I had it set to ON like the book said and no luck and I tried it OFF as well. Also, it has 5v preouts but the Eclipse ea2212 amp has a gain control that goes to 5v as well. I tired the amp on mono as well as stereo settings. Could a bad ground be the problem? Gonna recheck everything Sunday.