Been dealing with Troyer about a new fan controller for the low side fan. They have been really helpful and this is not to rag on their customer service or anything.

The problem that I have been having with the controller is that it was not turning off the fan after the truck was turned off. Simple problem,I called Troyer and they have a new one in the mail. Unfortunately, it wont be here until tomorrow.

So to circumvent the issue for now, I have just been pulling the fuse for that fan when parked...

Today, I was out driving, no problems at all for the most part. Then, as I am driving down the freeway doing 70 (the speed limit) with my cruise control on, the truck kicks out of CC and starts limping.

I pulled over and popped the hood. Smelled something burning, looked around and saw this...







So I yanked the melted wires out of there so the truck wouldn't continue to burn to the ground.

So now, not only does the low side fan not work, but the high side fan also decided to stop working at the same time. Thankfully I was less than a mile from the base, so I limped her back here and pulled the burned controller out...



Now my truck is throwing codes that something to do with COP banks. I will pull the codes and post them in a bit...

I have a feeling that this is going to be a VERY VERY expensive lesson for me... And of course, Troyer is not open again until Monday... I seriously just feel like crying right now.

 

Here are the codes my truck is showing...

1) P0010
2) P0020
3) P0102
4) P0135
5) P0155
6) P0443

 

Not a single response? Really?

 

Glad the motor didn't burn down fella.

Is that a troyer made or troyer sold item?

Did try to sweeten the deal with a few freebies?

 

I replaced fuse F32. No more codes now, that is a huge relief. Now I am just waiting for the new controller to come in...

 

I'm sorry to hear about your problem, I'm kinda glad that I did not buy the fan kit, I have read lots of bad things about the controler and relays.

 

Thanks man. I am just hoping that the new controller I get tomorrow is problem free. I am going to be wiring up a fail safe so that if this happens again, I can at least have working fans.

I have noticed another thing as well...

Even when the fans are working as hey are supposed to, me truck actually runs hotter than it did with the factory fan. My Ultra Gauge says my truck USUALLY doesn't get hotter than 197. But now that these fans are on, I frequently see temps over 200. I have become very weary of this setup. When I get the new controller, I am going to extensively test the capabilities of the whole system before I have to hook up to my trailer in two weeks to move to North Carolina.

I am just seriously disappointed that this setup doesn't do what it is claimed to do. Especially for the money spent...

 

I'm glad your damage wasn't worse!

Good examples of the reliability, and cooling capacity of e-fans being worse than the OEM mechanical fan/clutch.

 

Not touching the controller issue, but will add this.
My truck(s) that were run on Mike's dyno all made their optimum power right at 202-203 degrees. Can't really remember now, but I believe I had my fans turn on at somewhere around 205 or 206. Never did turn on during normal freeway driving.

 

Was the the temp at the radiator? Or was it what the computer said was the coolant temp was? I just used a IR thermometer and pointed it at the radiator where they showed in the instructions.

However, now that I have replaced the controller, I havent seen a temp over 197. So maybe it fixed the problem.


I talked with Troyer for a while over the phone, with a guy named Michael.

In a nutshell, what he told me was that it isn't the controller that is the problem, but the relay on top. I dont understand how a quality Bueller relay is failing so much though...

If I have any more problems with their controllers, I am just going to do a homemade setup. I have seen a few write ups on here that look promising. I just hope that I make it to North Carolina issue free...

 

I've seen more issues with the name Troyer next to them than you can shake a stick at. I have a Hayden Imperial controller that is going on 7 years old. I've never touched it since the day I installed it.

 

Sorry to hear you too are having problems with Troyer's issues that they should've taken care of a long, long time ago. You should've read my thread before installing your fans. I ended up trowing away mine in the trash and went back to stock. Take a look: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...-services.html

 

The fans in Troyers kit are Derale 16", very good quality fans, but the controller provided is nothing but a headache. I have used the Troyer fans (with the mounting kit) with the DC Controller (Delta current control) with excellent performance and reliability.

 

Man, I feel for ya and your scenario sucks! I had several problems and one identical problem with my controllers. Had the main power wires on mine melt down and almost melted through the battery case. Just to keep a loooooong story short, after leaving Troyer alone and getting some Painless relays, I've been solid and 100% trouble free without a worry for several years now.

As for the cooling capability, here's my theory on why you're seeing warmer temps (and it has nothing to with the capability of the e-fans) a mechanical fan is turning and providing some air flow all the time. If you have the cooling system capability, your temps will stay down against the thermostat temp. With e-fans, they are turning on when commanded at the upper temps you have seen. Manually run your fans all the time and I guarantee you'll see those cooler temps you're used to. These two fans will cool anything you can throw at it; or thus has been my experience. I towed my 23' toy hauler of undisclosed loaded weight completely across country and half way back in late June a couple years ago and had no problems what do ever keeping my temps all the way down.

 

Even e-fan manufacturers don't recommend e-fans for primary cooling with high heat load applications: