Troyer Efan install problems
#1
#2
#3
If you've hooked them up properly they shouldn't turn on until the sensor reaches the pre-set temperature on the relay as detected by the probes in the radiator. Just saying they don't work doesn't give us any insight to what you've done to this point to come up with your assessment. Are the relays properly grounded?
#4
I believe they are ground fine. I bypassed the relays and jumped it to the battery using the same ground and they came on. I changed some of the wiring around just in case it was backward. When I changed it the high temp/ A/C fan came on and and stayed on. I then unplugged it and plugged it back in to see if it would come back on. But then my A/C compressor started leaking? WTF, spraying 134 everywhere. Cut the truck off then back on. It started leaking again after a minute or so. I changed wiring back and park it to the side.
I also let it run til temp got to 202 playing with controls on relays the whole time. Nothing happened. I may just hook those turn on leads to something else and screw the temp setting
I also let it run til temp got to 202 playing with controls on relays the whole time. Nothing happened. I may just hook those turn on leads to something else and screw the temp setting
Last edited by onefast96svt; 10-30-2010 at 03:46 AM.
#5
Okay how are you monitoring temperature? Just because the engine temperature reaches 200 degrees doesn't mean the coolant in the radiator is 200 degrees, or even close to it. It took a good while for my radiator to reach 200 + when I adjusted mine. Best thing to use is an infrared temperature sensor to see what is going on with the radiator.
#6
All that means is that the fan motors work and that the fans are grounding. That tells you nothing about the relay. And we really don't know if they're properly grounded. Even poor grounding will work the fans, but result in problems later. (see below)
I would suggest that you don't change around any wiring, and begin the installation again from the top, in accordance with the diagram. That's probably what Troyer tried to tell you to do. It's very hard for anyone to troubleshoot by guessing at what changes you made, and what could now be wrong with it.
Just from personal experience, I made 1 wiring mistake and it melted wires and blew fuses. It was really very simple. The ground for the fans to the chasis in Troyer's instructions. In the photos, the ground wire ring terminal came into direct contact with the front cross member. My ring terminal was on top of the power steering hose bracket, as opposed to under the power steering hose bracket as the instructions specifically stated. Improper grounding caused arcing, which lead to blown fuses and melted wires.
#7
Okay how are you monitoring temperature? Just because the engine temperature reaches 200 degrees doesn't mean the coolant in the radiator is 200 degrees, or even close to it. It took a good while for my radiator to reach 200 + when I adjusted mine. Best thing to use is an infrared temperature sensor to see what is going on with the radiator.
Keep in mind that your thermostat opens at 190. If everything is working right, the thermostat isn't fully open until about 205. Now in the real world, there are variances. Even brand new, some thermostats my open a little sooner, while others open a little later. Your thermostat, on a 6 year old truck, may start opening around 180 or 185, or it doesn't start to open until 195 or 200. What you are seeing on the gauge is the temperature from inside your engine. That is not the same temperature as inside your radiator. Heat begins to dissipate as soon as the fluid begins circulating outside the engine block. Some heat is lost circulating through your heater core, and some heat is lost simply by fluid exiting into the upper hose and running through the radiator.
In one of my cars, I have an electric fan installed with a switch that is designed to turn on at 180. With my laptop hooked up to the car's OBD II port, I can see that the PCM reads my coolant temperature at around 200 - 205, before the temperature probe in the radiator fins reads 180 to turn the fans on. With a 160 thermostat that opens fully at 175 installed, I can see that the coolant in the engine drops from 180 back to 165 or 170, simply by the thermostat opening and then circulating fluid thourgh the radiator.
Set your turn on temperatures with what you feel comfortable with. I have mine set for 195 & 205, based upon the readings from the PCM. I know that with my current setting, there are times that the coolant temp in the engine will read between 195 - 210 before the temps start to drop. In normal use, only the driver side fan ever turns on. With just the one fan turning, there is sufficient cooling and that second fan never has to come on. For me, it just provides peace of mind that I have a secondary fan in case of failure with the first fan.
In theory, you can safely operate your vehicle up to 225, but you really don't want to go over 230. When I bought my fan kit, Troyer's instructions were to place the probes a few rows above, and between the two fans. In hindsight, I should have placed the probes on the passenger side, as close as possible to the inlet, to detect the fluid coming from the upper radiator hose. But I'm sure Mike Troyer has a pretty good reason for where those probes are placed. I'm pretty sure he's smarter than I am.
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#8
Im going by what the php edge says on the screen. I change the wires to see if it was backwards, in which it still didn't work. So I changed it back to what it" suppose to be". Ground I check was still going through the relay. But make sure I have a good ground I could take off the fender where troyer says to put and go straight to the battery. But it is the same spot where the battery is grounded to.
Last edited by onefast96svt; 10-31-2010 at 01:23 PM.
#9
So I went out and tested to see if the fan would smoe how misteriously work, and it did.Took it for a test drive and it worked fine. It kept the temp at 190 but was runnig from the get go when the truck was cold. I got back from the drive, cut it off to see about gettting the other fan to work, and damn if it wouldnt come back on.
Now Im going back out ot see if I can get them to work again.
Now Im going back out ot see if I can get them to work again.
#11
It really does sound like you need someone else to look at the installation. But if it's a defective relay, then Troyer should be able to replace that under warranty. Or, you can look around for another type of fan controller, and wire that up to the fans. Do a search. Others have had problems too. There may already be a solution posted.
#12
OK I think I fixed it. I switched the wires around from what Troyer says in there book to the opposite. The fans work fine come on and off like there suppose to. Maybe my truck was made on Wednesday and everybody was ready for the weekend. I've got a few more wiring things I'm going to do and I should be finished.
#13
Or your relay was made on a Wednesday.
Or you did your installation on a Wednesday (today).
Just to be sure, I would still double check all connections, and test the relay switch wiring.
Let me how this goes in a week or a month. Let's see if those fuses blow or the wiring melts.
#14
OK I think I fixed it. I switched the wires around from what Troyer says in there book to the opposite. The fans work fine come on and off like there suppose to. Maybe my truck was made on Wednesday and everybody was ready for the weekend. I've got a few more wiring things I'm going to do and I should be finished.
Take a moment to feed this back (along with your connection revisions) to TP. I'm sure they would be interested in knowing their documentation contains errors.
Thanks.
MGD
#15
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Do you have the newer ground switched controllers? If you do there are updated instructions in the back of the instruction booklet I am told. I of course was not given them when I installed mine. The tip off for me was the fact that most of the colors the instructions refered to were not on my controllers at all.