Both the 150 and 210 will work on this truck, Flexalite in their application data lists the 210 on engines as large as 460 cu in, and not the 150. The 210 being a dual fan design does give an extra margin of safety if one of the motors were to fail, you would still have the other. The difference in current draw is only about 5 amps, and the difference in price is about $20.

 

If have had mine on now for about 4 months. This has been one of the best mods I have done so far. MPG is up 1.5. The truck is in bumper-to-bumper traffic daily and has been off road "playing"....The Black Magic fan has so far stood up to what I have put it through. Getting through next month is my last test. August in Missouri is like living near the equator.

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99 4X4 XLT S/C with ORP
5.4L 3.73LS
Flow Master Dual Exhaust
K&N Filter w/ Intake Mod
Flex-a-Lite Black Magic 150 Electric Cooling Fan
Jason "Hugger" Truck Lid

 

Bill:

Where did you get the pressure switch and where/how did you mount it? That sounds like and awesome idea.

Secondly, I have some experience with using electric fans a Bronco with a 351. Let me just say, these mfr recommendations are not near enough. I love that fact that you get free power and mpg, but make sure you get more CFM from the electric fans than you need. Here in Florida you can never have enough.

Also if you are putting a dual fan setup with a shroud, make sure you get a one with vents covered by rubber flappers in the shroud itself. These electric fan shrouds when the fans turn off at highway speeds really restrict airflow. With the vents and rubber flappers....when you are driving slow, the fans keep the flappers closed and draw the air through the radiator. At speed, when airflow is higher than what the fans can draw or the fans turn off, the flappers will open allowing unrestricted airflow.

This was a problem I had on the Bronco. Stopped or at slow speeds, even beating on the truck with the A/C on, fans worked fantastic. Once going down the highway over 55, the temp went way up. Once I make my own vent/flapper system on the dual fan shroud I had, everything worked perfect and the temp never went high again.

The only dual fan shroud that I have found aftermarket that had a vent/flapper system is made by SPAL. Jay Corp Technologies carries the entire SPAL line on their website, check it out.
http://jaycorptech.com/auto/spal.htm

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Boss™

Just Ordered 2001 F-150 Lariat Wht/Slvr, 4x4, SC, SB, SS, 99L 5.4L, 44E tran, 7700# payload, Class III towing, 3.73LS, Skids, Capts, 4W disc ABS, shift-on-fly, keyless

 

Broken - it would be interestin for you to add an hour meter to your fan motor feed line -- and to run an ammeter to your gauge-pod so that you could watch for load (current/amperage) while moving and sitting [the test technician in me just won't go away].

Did you remove entirely the stock fan?

Are you saving your nickels for replacement alternators?

Tks for the post,


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Y2K™

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

The hour meter and ammeter may be a good idea, where could I get them and how much would they cost?

You have to entirely remove the stock fan to make the electric fan worth while.

As for it wearing out my alternator, I have read other posts that say that our alternators are heavy duty compared to other cars. Also I feel that the short amount of time that is on per drive doesn't drain the system that much at all. I have found that my mpg has not been below 20.5 since the install (compare that to the other numbers I posted earlier). My avg MPG to date is up to 19.4 and still rising. I can post more numbers if anyone wants them.

Just to help you understand my daily drive and how much the fan is on. (At 5:00 am, temp around 65-70 deg) I drive about 82 miles to work, this is 95% highway ( speeds range from 60-75) and I only stop for two traffic lights (I assume the fan doesn't come on for them). So the fan doesn't come on during the whole trip to work. My 82 mile trip home the ambient temp is generally between 80-95. Traffic is stop and go for between 5-15 min ( one time it was about 45 min) and that is when the fan is on. Once I am about 20-25 mph the airflow is enough to keep the engine cool without the fan. If you need more information, let me know.

Mark

 

The pressure switch I used is made by Dungs, and is used to sense the presence of combustion air in an induced draft burner. I don't know of a retail outlet for this switch since it came from my work. I have found a switch in Grainger, their part# 3ZM96, $18.56, setpoint range of .2 to 1" of water. Use the normally closed contact of the switch in series with the AC control input to the fan control. The switch is manufactured by Cleveland Controls, their part# RSS-495-11.
As far as hauling goes, I pulled my boat which is approx 2000# with a fully loaded truck last week about 200 miles, in 85 to 90 degree weather with the AC on and no troubles. The fan didn't run any longer than normal which is only when stopped and sitting for more than a few minutes.

 

Hmmnnn, Ok I plan on installing a Flex-a-lite. Already have a perma-cool on the trans cooler. Was interesting to see that on a new D**ge dakota quad cab, they have BOTH fans, that is a standard belt driven fan, and an electric fan.....Course neither of them is real big, compared the the stock fan on the f150. Just an observation....

[This message has been edited by Shark99 (edited 07-06-2000).]

 

Guys,

My Haynes manual says the fan clutch assembly nut is a left-hand thread. Is that right?? I bought the tool to remove it and I'm using two 2-foot breaker bars and can't break the nut loose.

Thanks, guys. fish

Oops--Thanks, Dirtbike, but I forgot to specify, my truck's a '97 F-150 4.6L V8. Wonder if they're the same?

[This message has been edited by gofish (edited 07-16-2000).]

 

Mine was a regular right hand thread, and wasn't really torqued that tight (4.2 V6)

 

I installed the Flex-a-lite 250 meant for the bigger model GM trucks. It consists of dual 2600 rpm puller fans, a thermostat and a/c relay. The Flex-a-lite cowl probably only covers 85-90% of the OEM radiator, but I think that's good enough. Feels like it freed up 10-15 horses. Hard to stay out of the pedal now.

Thanks guys, for all your help and advice! Your tips on the 2 water hose clamps and a hot wire off the MAF saved me pain and misery. Captainoblivious and Riotrob, I used the 250 instead, because of my concerns for a reliable backup fan, but I appreciate your help!


[This message has been edited by gofish (edited 07-24-2000).]

 

Did you have to remove the radiator to remove the fan? Or did you un-screw the fan shroud and push it back towards the engine?

Has any one heard if Ford is putting a electric fan on standard in 2001?

Thanks

Sean

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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Extended Cab

• Deep Wedgewood Blue
• 4.6L Manual Trans
• Ford Tonneau Cover
• Magnum Bug Deflector
• Panther 16x8 wheels with 285/75 R16 BFG All Terrain T/A
• 'Superchips' Performance Chip
• K&N FIPK (With custom mod)
• Westin Side Bars (Black)
• 3" Jardine Cat-Back Exhaust with Crome Tip
• Clear Corners
• Tinted Font Side Windows

[This message has been edited by Ren (edited 07-25-2000).]

 

Ren,

I'm not sure I understand the question. I never removed the radiator. In order to take the fan clutch out, the shroud has to come off with it because there's not enough room to pull it out separately. I suppose if you wanted too, you could reinstall the shroud, but in my case, the Flexalite comes with its' own.

 

Go Fish,

You answered my question, on my truck there is no way to get to the bolts that hold the fan clutch on with out moving the shroud.

1. Detach the shroud from the radiator.
2. Then detach the fan clutch.

Is the above correct?

Regards

Sean

 

Ren,

I don't know. I've got a '97 f150 w/4.6L engine. In the OEM setup, the shaft that mounts the fan clutch to the engine is easy to get to; there's nothing barring access whatsoever. In my engine bay, to loosen the shroud first would only create more hassles because the shroud could fall and get in the way. I never had to concern myself with the shroud until I finished unscrewing the fan clutch shaft. Then I had to unbolt the shroud to pull it, the fan clutch, and fan (all 3) at one time because of the lack of space.

By the way, you said, "...bolts". What bolts?? The only bolts on the fan clutch are 4 that attach to the fan.

[This message has been edited by gofish (edited 07-25-2000).]

 

Gofish,

I ment nuts, sorry. I don't think i fully understand what has to be undone on the fan clutch. I just looked at my trcuk and it looks like I would undo the silver/gray shaft that looks like it screws onto the engine pully. Is that correct?

Regards

Sean