After running through my first tank of gas, the results are in: 18.3 mpg. I'm one happy camper now. I've monitored my gas usage very regularly in the past, so I would have expected 16.5 to 17 mpg before the fan mod, for this last tankfull. Power does seem to be up also. My old fan wasn't that noisy either so I don't suspect it was sucking more Hp than is usual for these trucks.
BTW this is a 1998 SC, 4wd, 5spd with 4.6, 3.55 rear, so it's no light weight at 5000#. Best mod I've done so far, Highly reccomend it.

 

Thanks to everyone for your responses. I think dyno numbers would only help if I already knew what I had. The mileage numbers do me more good as thats what I'm looking for.

Thank you

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'97 F-150 4x4 4.6L Auto Off Road Moonlight Blue
Tow package, Westin Chrome Nerf bars, Color matched bug shield
Linex bed liner, Wizard Ultra White Headlights

 

On the Flex-a-lite web page, they claim a 12 hp at the rear wheel improvement on a Chevy set up.

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1999 XLT S/C, 4.2 V-6, auto, 3.55 rear, dark torreador red/harvest gold, bed liner, Sony 10 disc CD, Edelbrock IAS, K&N filter, Superchip, Airaid FIPK. On Back Order - Steeda Rear Anti Sway Bar, polyurethane front sway bar bushings

 

hey finally got my 210 on works great!!! i do have a slight vibration at idle....other than that i like it ....

 

Roushfan tell me how your A/C does with the fan. I disconnected my A/C fan clutch connection because it gets too cold. Since I have only one large fan, I am curios how your does with two fans. MPG for me has been great. I am averaging over 15 city and over 17 HWY and keeps getting better. I love this MOD! Nice to here your truck is drivable.

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99 4X4 XLT S/C with ORP
5.4L 3.73LS
Flow Master Dual Exhaust
K&N Filter w/ Intake Mod
Flex-a-Lite Black Magic 150 Electric Cooling Fan
Jason "Hugger" Truck Lid

 

Hopefully this mod will quiet down my engine a bit, seems to have lots of excessive noise driving in the city and freeway. That fan has got to go!.

F&B's

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1998 (50th anniversary series) F-150 XLT, SC, 6' bed, 2WD, Pac. Grn., 4.2L auto, Limited Slip and Tow Pkg., Real slider.
Performance Mods:
Superchip
4.10 gears
Outerwears pre-filter and K&N air filter
Dynomax Super Turbo muffler

Suspension:
Edelbrock IAS shocks Hellwig rear sway bar 3"

Other:
3" body lift
Signal mirrors
Stull grills
(4)55 watt driving lights
(2)55 watt back-up lights
Fiberglass hood
painted tailgate handle and OEM air dam
lack Max soft Tonneau
Driver side grab handle
OEM fender flares
color keyed outer grill
Lift Lips
Viper alarm (remote start)
3" rear seat lift
Smart Part 2000
BFG AT's 265/75/16.......
lmaox10@hotmail.com

 

Going to an electric made my engine much quieter...strangely quiet. Soon after I installed it, I made a stop at a gas station. As I coasted up to a pump (in N), I thought the engine stalled. It was that quiet. Very easy to get used to!

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Danny
'98 F-150 Std., RC, SB, 4x2, 4.2L, 5-sp, 3.08, AC, speed control, rear slider.
Mods: Mobil 1 engine oil, Red Line D4-ATF trans fluid, Edelbrock IAS shocks,
50 Series Flowmaster, K&N with airbox mod, electric radiator fan, Superchip

 

O.K.
I have some very direct questions on installation. Once I can provide a reasonable expenditure request to my wife I hope the funds will be there to do this.
Anyway - I'd Like to use the Flex-lite 150.

1.) It seems that the fan is connected to the A/C relay, so does that mean it runs only when the A/C is on? or is it on but still temperature sensitive. If it was running when the A/C is on wouldn't be on for every Air setting execept "off" and "vent"?

2.) What about having the fan be just temperature operated but still have the power tap come from some place that is only on when the ignition is on? (on ealy foreign cars the fans would operate even if the ignition was off and would drain the battery on hot days)

3.) Is this all covered in the instructions for the various configurations.

I know this is long but these questions have plaqued me. I like this site because so many people are very informative. If there is any answers out there I would apperciate then. (I often print out info here and just keep it in the ol' Haynes manual)


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'97 F-150 4x4 4.6L Auto Off Road Moonlight Blue
Tow package, Westin Chrome Nerf bars, Color matched bug shield
Linex bed liner, Wizard Ultra White Headlights




[This message has been edited by BERVINATOR (edited 05-12-2000).]

 

I received my Flex-a-Lite Black Magic 150 this week, but due to other commitments I might not get to install it for another couple of weeks. I did open it, and it appears to be a quality unit with everything you need.

The instructions are generic, as this is a universal fit type of product. If you want to customize the install, you'll need a diagram for your truck.

It appears to me that the default setup may do exactly what you want it to - fan only goes on when the engine switch or accessory switch is on; and it is thermostatially controlled no matter where the fan switch is set.

You can buy a separate on/off overide switch, but that only seems necessary for 4 wheeling or maybe heavy towing.

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1999 XLT S/C, 4.2 V-6, auto, 3.55 rear, dark torreador red/harvest gold, bed liner, Sony 10 disc CD, Edelbrock IAS, Superchip, Airaid FIPK. On Back Order - Steeda Rear Anti Sway Bar, polyurethane front sway bar bushings
Patiently waiting for: Infinity Reference Component front speakers
Waiting for the weekedn: Flex-a-Lite electric fan

 

The electrical connections I used on my 98 were as follows:
Fan power leads directly to the battery, with the supplied inline 30amp fuse in the positive lead. You could also connect to the megafuse on the firewall also, and pick up the negative on a chassis ground.
The other battery wire to the control unit I picked up off the red wire going to the MAF sensor, by the air cleaner. This wire is hot whenever the key is in the on position, and will allow the fan only to run when the ignition is on.
The AC control wire is a yellow/black wire that can be found running in the harness that goes down to the AC compressor. If you attach it, the fan will operate whenever the AC compressor is on. Note that the compressor will cycle on and off as required by the system due to the cycling switch mounted on the receiver by the firewall. I would be a little hesitant not to hook up the AC control since it would make the AC work very hard on a hot day when the vehicle is not moving. Don't really know if this would damage anything, but don't want to find out the hard way.
I may try using a small sensitive pressure switch, one that would respond to inches of water pressure to break the AC signal to the control box. This switch would open it's contact when the truck is moving forward and be closed when the moving slowly or stopped.
Again the wire colors are for a 98, other years might be different, Good luck

 

OR you could attach a separate thermostat to the A/C condenser to turn the fan on when it gets hot.
I was considering 120on 110off thermostat for the condenser.
You can pick them up at ant HVAC suppl and you don't have to use a relay.
Attach another thermostat 180on 160off to the return side of the radiator.
While driving, the air naturally flowing through the radiator/ condenser would keep the fan off unless it was extremly hot outside in which case you would want the fan on anyway.
This is the setup I'm going to go with when funds become avalible.

 

BERVINATOR
The Flex-a-Lite instructions were not very helpful for me either other than the schematic. I hooked my high AMP volt source directly to the battery. The low AMP volt source was connected to the "hot" side of my starter relay. As for my A/C connection, I now have it disconnected. I spliced into the wire that activates the clutch on the compressor. The problem with it is the fact that the location of the compressor and wire splice can not be made watertight. I took my truck off road and the amount of dirt and mud that got onto the spliced wire harness scared me into removing it and re-taping it back to what the factory had put on it. I bumped my fan down to 195 degrees so it would come on a little earlier. I don't have a truck manual with a wire schematic. I would like to find the relay connection that activates the compressor clutch and use it with the fan. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks


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99 4X4 XLT S/C with ORP
5.4L 3.73LS
Flow Master Dual Exhaust
K&N Filter w/ Intake Mod
Flex-a-Lite Black Magic 150 Electric Cooling Fan
Jason "Hugger" Truck Lid

 

What_Ranger, the AC clutch signal originates at the the selector switch on the dash,(purple wire) and goes to the pressure cutoff switch near the radiator (red/yellow wire).It then goes to the cycle switch mounted on the receiver which is near the battery, mega fuse and firewall(black/yellow wire). You can pick up the AC clutch signal here also, nice and high in the engine bay.
BTW, I tried adding a snap disc thermostat to control the fan when the ac is on and the truck is not moving, worked pretty well too. I attached it to the condenser return line which is the lower of the two refrigerant lines, just past the fitting on that line. I did a little bit of testing and found that the temperature change past the fitting (orifice) varies quite a bit when the AC is on and the fan is running or not running. The tstat I used was about 120 to 130 close on temp rise. I attached it using a hose clamp, but tightened it a little too much, now I need to get another. Good luck

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1998 XLT SC 4X4, 5spd
CD Changer, K&N, Electic Fan