I've had the Flex-a-lite 270 for well over a year now. I have not had any problems what so ever.

 

I went back to stock with the problems I started having with the DC Controller. Sometimes it wouldn't turn on, and I wouldn't know until I saw the temp gauge start climbing real quick. I finally took it out when the fan stayed on all the time.

I kinnda miss it now, when the it's 100+ degrees out, and I'm idling. Guess the stock fan doesn't move much air at 700 rpm.

But yea, it was cool while I had it. I could notice the difference when I put the stock fan back on.

 

For $100 DIY, I got a 2 mpg gain, more throttle responsiveness and colder A/C

 

Out of all your mods, which do you feel was the best bang for the buck. H.P. and MPG ? Thanks again, Mike

 

most everyone will say UD pulleys and e-fans

 

thinking of used fans, dual 16s, with some kind of fabbed supports and manual switches in dash. anyone who has done it this way, is there a problem with viabration noise.

 

And a truck that you told us was overheating. You had to run the heat to eep the truck cool enough. Then started you were going to save up for a second fan......so tell us again how you did it for 100?

ps I can make a truck overheat for free.

 

What I did was I used axillary trans mount cooler ties and tied the fan in through the radiator. Then I used a relay mounted to the windshield washer fluid tank to turn the fan on and off with the ignition, so I didnt have to deal with toggle switches in the cab. Absolutely no problems, works flawlessly.

 

I've seen the Procomp 16" fans for as low as $25-$30ea. on ebay, and the dual fan controllers aren't that much more. So being right around $100 is feasible.

 

FYI... you don't want to run two fans on those controllers, not unless they are small fans. Two 16" fans on one 30/40amp relay is way too close to the rated duty cycle when the relay kicks in, plus you don't need both fans coming on at once just for A/C. Use two controllers, both triggered by slightly different temps, and the high temp fan also triggered by the A/C. Frankly, I just don't trust the Derale and Hayden controllers, I've heard way too many reports of problems and have personally seen one catch fire after months of working just fine.

Go cheap if you like, but at least get some redundancy so you don't get stuck on a hot day if a controller goes out on you. Personally, I forked out for one of the best controllers on the market and have been extremely happy. It only runs the fans as fast as they need it, so the fans are quiet. When they run at 10-20% speed (which is all they need for most of my non-highway driving) you can't even hear them.

Personally, I've never understood paying thousands for a truck and then nickle-diming on accessories.

 

Hey love my lincoln mark Viii fan (20 dollars at junk yard) and my DC controls controller, works fine and love it.

 

What's the underdrive pully?

 

I've got the pair of Troyer fans (Derale?) with his mount bracket, a Spal PWM V3 controller in the cab on the driver side of the center console (next to my right knee).There's also a SPAL FRH (on the firewall in the bay)for the A/C dedicated fan, and to be sure about the temp reading I had a stainless sleeve with a bung made that's sleeved into the upper hose just off the thermostat. It has the SPAL Temp Sender in it.

The setup's great, has been trouble free (2 years)and I wish I had installed it when I bought the truck. No noticeable mileage difference. Definitely added a little torque to the existing stuff on the truck.

Good luck with your choice(s). Hope this helps.