As for the mod...

 

You know you liked that slipped in there. As for the , I am . Any hints?

 

Sure would be a good thing to move the "FS" stuff to the for sale forum rather than in your signature...

Checked all of the connections AGAIN today... everything appears to be working correctly at the moment but, I have a hunch that it'll crap out again soon.

 

when all else fails, hit it with a hammer.
Usually works.

On another note... my 5435 now has Sirius.
With a little black tape the factory antenna connector fit right in.
Took the Ford Sirius module out and slipped the Eclipse module in its place.
And the Sirius subscription is still active. Hopefully forever

 

Wait what FS stuff ?!?

If its this intermittent, it sounds more and more like a wire. Does it happen more under certain conditions than others?

 

Seems to happen when it's colder... although, at 25 degrees this morning, it didn't miss a single beat and worked like a champ (which tosses my theory out of the window, eh?).

 

Ya, kinda got me too... I would still suspect a wire or misaligned LED.

 

This one doesn't have an 'eye'. It's all hard-wired (Eclipse-Specific)... I'm betting wire.

I just need to bite the bullet and rewire the whole thing... I'm wondering if the Ecl-swix is bad?

 

??
I have the "Eclipse specific" SWI, and it is the SWI-ECL.
(Now PAC has upgraded it to the SWI-ECL2.)

I thought the SWI-X was the one with the infra-red??

 

You are correct. SWI-X had the "eye".

 

Okay... I'm at the end of my rope on this thing.

It's SOOO intermittent...

I finally broke down and soldered all of the wiring. It still isn't working correctly...


How could one go about testing the SWI-ECL or the steering wheel controls? E-Meter? Set to DC and press the steering wheel controls to see if the ECL is receiving a signal (which, in turn, would cause the ECL to command the 5435 HU?)

Need a little help on this one... I'm an electrical buffoon.

 

Start by grabbing your DMM. Then probe the wire that is to give the commands for the SWC with the red lead. Then take and ground the black. Hold the button until you get the voltage. RECORD THAT VOLTAGE! Do this with all the buttons. Then if you can, plug the factory HU in and double check that all the functions work with the voltage you had in the first test. Make sure theres nothing intermittent about the factory. If there isnt and all wires are sure. You know your problem.

The other thing I would recommend doing, is taking a long ziptie and split the harness with the ziptie and run it the length. Securing that harness, those wiggle quite a bit.

 

RP...I mentioned earlier to resort to the CD manual..

Here is a cut and paste

PINPOINT TEST G: THE AUXILIARY AUDIO CONTROL IS INOPERATIVE — STEERING WHEEL AUDIO CONTROL SWITCH

• Measure the resistance between the steering wheel control switch harness pin 4, harness side and steering wheel control switch harness pin 3, harness side while pressing the steering wheel control switches as follows:
Switch Resistance Range
VOL Down 69.54-76.86 ohms
VOL Up 195.89-216.51 ohms
MEM 421.04-465.36 ohms
MEDIA 851.39-941.01 ohms
No Buttons Pressed 4,575.39-5,057.01 ohms


I guess if they are way out of range the switches are starting to go

 

Good stuff, guys. Thanks. I'm going to try to further isolate sometime in the next three or four days and will report back. Again, thanks!!!

 

I still haven't touched this dang thing but, I'm nearly convinced that it's temperature related as to when it works and when it doesn't. My observations are, if it's below 40, it's sketchy. If it's above 40, it works like a champ.

Is that indicative of a bad SWIX?