OK. I guess I'm getting a better picture. What is the length of stock front end links and does anyone have the P/N of stock rear end links. Thanks.

 

You don't need to cut/weld the rear endlinks, just drill a new hole higher up in the frame rail...

 

2Cool: Thanks, that makes it a lot clearer. Now if I can figure out the front links

 

Photo from yesterday showing So-Cal links, new bump stops, and Ruslow panhard:


Ruslow QA1 upper shock mounts:

 

Tim,

Nice pic of the QA1 heim kit. Any additional tips on mounting them over and above what you sent in the email?

<<==expecting my QA1's any day


Bob

 

It's surprisingly easy. The mounts are blank--you decide whether you want to use a single bolt in the middle, or two or four bolts around the perimeter. I used (4) 1/4" X 1.25" bolts with lockwashers.

For the passenger side, I used a c-clamp to hold the mount steady until the first hole was drilled. If you have a grinder, it might be worthwhile to bevel off the back edge of the mounting ring, as it is slightly larger than the concave mounting area. No need to remove either shock, but make sure you have a full set of SAE wrenches, as the QA1 nuts are kinda off sizes and large (can't remember). I did not have any threadlock handy, so I may go back and add it to the stem threads.

For the driver's side, remove all six T-60 bolts holding on the bed, then reinstall two on the passenger side about four turns. Jack up the driver's side of the bed a couple of inches with an 18" piece of 2X4 placed on the rearmost crossmember of the bed (the 2X4 slips in between the leaf and the frame). Once you get the bed up--it's easier than it sounds--the driver's side is easy. Total time should be an hour or so.

Let me know if I can answer any other questions.

 

I have to get those soon.

 

So just like the panhard bar install but on the opposite side?

As always, thanks for the tips.

Bob