Why does the L have cold weather concerns?
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1997
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From: L'ville, Ga
Why does the L have cold weather concerns?
I've seen the concerns about driving the L hard in cold weather, but what is the cause of the problem? The one thing that comes to mind is that when the air gets cold, the computer is adding too much timing?
Rest In Peace
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: anchorage, alaska, usa, north america, earth, solar system, milky way
the possibility of snow. I have driven the truck at -45 and its all good (Except of course the fost on the side windows w/ the heater on max hot, max fan)
stock f1s + snow = getting no where fast.
The computer adds fuel when its colder, I am not sure about timing changes though.
stock f1s + snow = getting no where fast.
The computer adds fuel when its colder, I am not sure about timing changes though.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Huntington Beach/CA
This isnt a concern if you allow the computer to do its job on a stock truck.
However, when you bypass the setup using a custom programmed chip, you incidently raise the timing and fuel values. Once its set, its set. So when you reach cold air, the dense air makes the truck leaner due atomization and quicker burning of the fuel. Youre going to make more power, just like NO2 would do, but youre not compensating for it. Best thing to do, is run a cold air program. Remove 4-5 degrees of timing and keep the a/f to around 11.0. That also gives you a 1.0 a/f security blanket if you happen to boost it in sub cold weather. The cold air will make up for the timing you removed. So in reality, you wont lose hardly any performance.
However, when you bypass the setup using a custom programmed chip, you incidently raise the timing and fuel values. Once its set, its set. So when you reach cold air, the dense air makes the truck leaner due atomization and quicker burning of the fuel. Youre going to make more power, just like NO2 would do, but youre not compensating for it. Best thing to do, is run a cold air program. Remove 4-5 degrees of timing and keep the a/f to around 11.0. That also gives you a 1.0 a/f security blanket if you happen to boost it in sub cold weather. The cold air will make up for the timing you removed. So in reality, you wont lose hardly any performance.
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Joined: Mar 2000
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From: TEXAS
there are a number of folks who are asking for and getting "aggressive race" programs and are running them 100% of the time when they were designed for the track only. Or are getting warm weather cool weather programs and because the warm weather program makes more power are running it all the time.
One more common thread is that most of the ships here are designed around 12 sec WOT blasts... NOT 140 mph for 10 minutes on the highway... The parameters for each are not necessarily the same.. If you read close a few of the recent cratered blocks were during or after long 130+ blasts.
You have to be carefuul what you ask for and how you use it.
Check your chip on the dyno to be sure A/F is right. If It is race only ONLY use it at the track. If it pings on side 2 ONLY use side 2 with race gas or other octane booster. If you have a warm cold program, when its below 65 switch it to the cool side..
MY $0.02
Doug
One more common thread is that most of the ships here are designed around 12 sec WOT blasts... NOT 140 mph for 10 minutes on the highway... The parameters for each are not necessarily the same.. If you read close a few of the recent cratered blocks were during or after long 130+ blasts.
You have to be carefuul what you ask for and how you use it.
Check your chip on the dyno to be sure A/F is right. If It is race only ONLY use it at the track. If it pings on side 2 ONLY use side 2 with race gas or other octane booster. If you have a warm cold program, when its below 65 switch it to the cool side..
MY $0.02
Doug
Last edited by Silver_2000; Dec 3, 2002 at 09:26 AM.