Who's running 15" rims?
Who's running 15" rims?
Did you have the caliper ground or machined?
Are all 15" rims the same as far as clearance?
Any problems?
Would you do it again?
What tires are you running?
I did a search and found almost nothing other than this from BABOLT.
I cut down the rear rotors a certain amount and reindexed the rear caliper mounting brackets. Now I can mount 15 inch drag wheels and not have to worry. No cutting or welding on key brake components. Also have some other items that I am making I will show them at a later date. All of the CAD data files and cutter path information is saved so it is only time to make duplicates.
Thanks
Are all 15" rims the same as far as clearance?
Any problems?
Would you do it again?
What tires are you running?
I did a search and found almost nothing other than this from BABOLT.
I cut down the rear rotors a certain amount and reindexed the rear caliper mounting brackets. Now I can mount 15 inch drag wheels and not have to worry. No cutting or welding on key brake components. Also have some other items that I am making I will show them at a later date. All of the CAD data files and cutter path information is saved so it is only time to make duplicates.
Thanks
I'm running 15's in the rear for racing and will get 15" skinnies for the spring. I ground the calipers myself. I would go w/ 16's if I were just interested in running here and there on the weekends. With some of the bigger tires being released for 16" rims, the sidewall isn't as much of an issue as it was a year or two ago.
I've had 4 different custom 15s on my 01.
JDM steel rims, borrow from Totaled's truck- required minor caliper shaving and fit nice. Heavy and pricey, but there are hand made, so no surprise on the price.
Mike Reynold's LPP steel rims- very nice rims, well build, great precision for a steel wheel. Fit right on with the minor shaving I had already done for the JDM wheels. Again, pricey for a steel rim, but much lighter than the JDM rims, but also much thinner, shouldn't be mounted with a machine.
Bogarts aluminum rims- by far the absolute worst fitting wheel money can buy for these trucks. I was expecting the best fitting wheel money can buy when I bought these based on Bogarts repuation for awesome racing wheels, but got the exact opposite. Had to cut the dust sheilds off the rear brakes, and had to take an extra half inch off the caliper, which is now paper thin and dangerous. The fronts also require some good shaving, but nothing that compromises the safety of the brakes. I still run them because I DO like them, and already hacked my truck to use them, but there's no way I'd ever sell a set to someone.
PSP aluminum rims- these also fit on with the minor shaving I did for the JDM rims. I've revised the design a few times since then, which is why the rims are not available yet, but they should be ready this winter, and fit better than any other rim.
Following what Eric said, if your truck isn't REALLY fast (i.e. low 11's and faster) then some 16's with the 28" Hooisers should be perfect. But the 15s will always be a better choice if you are willing to spend the $$ and do some shaving, because the extra inch of sidewall can make a big difference on a big power truck.
JDM steel rims, borrow from Totaled's truck- required minor caliper shaving and fit nice. Heavy and pricey, but there are hand made, so no surprise on the price.
Mike Reynold's LPP steel rims- very nice rims, well build, great precision for a steel wheel. Fit right on with the minor shaving I had already done for the JDM wheels. Again, pricey for a steel rim, but much lighter than the JDM rims, but also much thinner, shouldn't be mounted with a machine.
Bogarts aluminum rims- by far the absolute worst fitting wheel money can buy for these trucks. I was expecting the best fitting wheel money can buy when I bought these based on Bogarts repuation for awesome racing wheels, but got the exact opposite. Had to cut the dust sheilds off the rear brakes, and had to take an extra half inch off the caliper, which is now paper thin and dangerous. The fronts also require some good shaving, but nothing that compromises the safety of the brakes. I still run them because I DO like them, and already hacked my truck to use them, but there's no way I'd ever sell a set to someone.
PSP aluminum rims- these also fit on with the minor shaving I did for the JDM rims. I've revised the design a few times since then, which is why the rims are not available yet, but they should be ready this winter, and fit better than any other rim.
Following what Eric said, if your truck isn't REALLY fast (i.e. low 11's and faster) then some 16's with the 28" Hooisers should be perfect. But the 15s will always be a better choice if you are willing to spend the $$ and do some shaving, because the extra inch of sidewall can make a big difference on a big power truck.
I have a CNC machine, so shaving shouldn't be an issue. I can even cut on an arc for minimal removal. I currently have a 8.4 1/8 which is probably a 12.9 to 13.0 in the 1/4. I can't see putting any more cash into go fast parts without running some kind of stickier tire. The last time out I actually had to let out of it completely because when 3rd gear hit, the tires were just smoking.
I realize that 16's would probably work great, but it seems like the 15's are cheaper, better availability, and hook up better.
I realize that 16's would probably work great, but it seems like the 15's are cheaper, better availability, and hook up better.


