2" drop rear shackles with no vibration.

Dan

 

I read something similar over on a brake kit manufacturer's website "Stop-tech" or something like that.

I've gotta say that this is COMPLETE and TOTAL B.S.

this website went on to say that they have NEVER seen a warped rotor. I see them most everyday. If you have ever machined a warped rotor you'll know that rotors do warp. You can measure the amount of warpage or "runout" with a dial indicator. and if you are telling me that some rotors that I have seen with high amounts of runnout .008" and up are actually not warped, that I am measuring "bedding material deposits", again I say B.S.

Please understand that I have no doubts that this uneven deposit of pad or bedding material could create a condition that feels like a warped rotor, but I just don't go for this "no such thing as a warped rotor" nonsense.

I can also believe that possibly these bedding material deposits could cause uneven braking performance or rather uneven friction coefficients (is that the correct term???) around different areas of the rotor, this would if my thinking is correct create uneven areas of heat or "hot spots" on the rotor. This very condition would lead to warpage of the rotor as it changes with the varying heat conditions. uneven or rapid heat cycling.

just my .02. I never thought much about it when I read it on this manufacturers website because they are selling stuff and everybody knows that alot of advertising is B.S. but I don't think that you are selling anything spike, just missinformed?

later,
chris

 

Chris,

The difference between my comment and all of your comments is that I didn't use absolutes. You say it's total BS as if it's absolutely impossible. I said it's highly unlikely. Big difference.

In other words, I said "it could happen, although it's unlikely, but before you jump to that conclusion, maybe you check one other item." Have I warped rotors? Yes. Have I cracked them? Yes. But, it didn't occur from driving hard around town.

Can you understand the difference or are you the type that must be correct? If so, I won't discuss the issue further because it would be a waste of time. I once heard a quote that applies to many of the pointless arguments on this board: "Don't wrestle in the mud with a pig. First of all, you'll get muddy. Plus, the more you wrestle, the more the pig will enjoy it."

Aside from that, thanks for sharing your unquestionable knowledge. The next time I have any discussions with anyone regarding this issue, even if they have considerable brake experience, I'll tell them exactly what you wrote.

BTW, the sandpaper trick has worked for me on several occasions and many others who never read that article you mentioned.

If you wondering, I've had to deal with several folks with the same attitude this week, so if it sounds like I'm unloading, I'm not. I've just gotten used to pointing out arrogance.

 

Perfect solution: don't stop

 

Chris,

One other item. Since you stated that maybe I'm misinformed, should I disregard the articles written by all the other brake and/or pad manufactures regarding bed-in procedures, brake compounds, etc.?

I'd like to know. I'm either misinformed or misunderstood. Choose one.

 

I love it! Sounds great and minimal low-end torque loss.
Are these shims on the bottom of the leaf springs? And if you have any tips on doing what you described, I would love to hear them!

Sammy

 

You need to rotate the 2 degree shim on the bottom of the leaf spring. This means removing the u-bolts and loosening the center pin on the leaf springs(make sure you have a few c-clamps holding the leaf springs together)before you rotate the factory 2 degree shim. For any of you folks that have installed just 2 inch drop shackles, you must do this as well to remove the driveline shudder. The factory 2 degree shim is set to make the pinion 0 degree's. When you install 2 inch drop shackles, it points the pinion down -2 degree's. This is a no no with two piece driveshafts.
The stock 2 degree shim will point the front of the pinion down towards the ground when you install the Beltech or whatever brand shackle. This is usually not a problem on the Lightnings, because they have a one piece driveshaft and actually aids in traction. The two piece driveshaft on the Harley Davidson or SuperCrews are very sensitive to any changes in pinion or driveshaft angles. The HD comes with a 2 degree shim made from the same leaf spring material and is hard to notice at the bottom of the spring pack. In stock form, the larger end of the shim is to the front of the truck. This sets the pinion angle at zero when stock. When you install the 2 inch drop shackles, this now points the pinion towards the ground -2 degrees. If you rotate the shim to put the larger end towards the back of the truck, you will now bring the pinion back to zero. Looking at the shim from the side, it will look pie shaped(taperd). Remove the spring u-bolts and clamp the springs with c-clamps. Loosen the center pin on the leaf spring(wrench and vicegrip) and rotate the large end of the shim toward the back of the truck. Tighten the Center pin and reassemble. Very easy job. Make sure you do not tighten the shackle bolts until the truck is on the ground or it will cause the bushings to bind. Good Luck. I know I have read many post on HD owners installing Shackles only to remove them because they cause vibrations. This will cure it!!!