So far just the fronts. The trucks brake system is heavily weighted to the front. About 75%-80% of our stopping power is up front. I will start working on the rear soon. If I can come up with a suitable caliper combination for the rear I will install a brake bias adjuster. For track driving I like the brakes to be closer to 55% front 45% rear. That seems to suit my driving style the best. Biggest obstacle to over come is the rear rotors. With the e-brake inside it really limits what you can do. I need to look at the 8.8" version of the F-150 rearend and see if it has better possibilities.

 

With all the power everyone is adding (including myself), you would think more of us would be smart enough to put a little money in safety.....like brakes.

If you don't mind, what kind of money do you have in them and what all did you do to control the costs? I understand you have some "sweat equity" in this setup.

 

Why bother when you can coast to a stop?

 

I picked up used parts where ever I could find them (e-bay, bidracer, swap meets, etc). I re-worked stock rotors and machined the rotor portion off to use as my mounting hubs. That was very easy to do but I don't want the liability to do more of them. The new parts I used were the caliper, pads, rotors, and braided lines. Hats, mounting brackets, and hubs were all used parts. Without counting my time I am into these approx $1500. I called in some favors and doing some testing to get discounts where ever I can. What looks like juck can often be re-worked into top notch parts. My mounting brackets had bad threads. No problem, Heli-Coil to the rescue. Now stronger than new. Pad are from the 1997-up Twin-Turbo Porsche. They run about $90 compared to $150 for Brembo pads. Several factory Super Car calipers will fit the F-150 Brembo/Stop-Tech mounting brackets. Unless a rotor is worn really bad or cracked the can be resurfaced on a centerless grinding machine. Most brake shops can't do the 355mm (14") rings, but grind shops can. Used rotors are not a bad way to go. Just some ideas that may or my not work for you. One by product of my in stall is that I increased the front track by approximately 1/2" in side wall to side wall width. It feels like the truck turns in much quickor. I need some good weather to really judge but it turns fast. Another recomendation is if you do big brakes add urethane bushings at the same time. This much added stop power may flex the rubber bushing affecting your alignment under heavy braking.

 

Stan and I have wondered (plus Coleman and Wilwood) if the spindles are flexing at all...

 

I suppose it's possible for the spindle to flex. I would think that would come more into play if you were running solid bushings. I think the stock rubber or urethane would absorb most of that energy.

 

Sliver-Bolt,

e-mail me so we can talk when you have time.

jacksonherb@hotmail.com

THANKS!!!!!

Herb