Powder coated plenum
Powder coated plenum
I just received my ported plenum from Razors Edge. Occurred to me that this would be a good opportunity to spiff up the engine bay by powdercoating the plenum. I did a search and came up with nothing on the subject. Have any of you done this? If not, I don't mind being a guinnea pig. My lightning is white ... what color do think would look the best? If I do this, I'll probably powder the valve covers to match.
I welcome any opinions/pictures you may have.
Dave
I welcome any opinions/pictures you may have.
Dave
tampa, is the inside of the blower housing ruff cast? whats involved in taking the blower housing out? do you have to replace gaskets or anything special, i want to polish the inside of my housing, did you notice any worthwhile gains or is it not worth the time involved?
High psi - I think Paul (tzrider) has his painted orange to match the truck.
TampaBlack99 - I ported the inside of my intake plenum, and that was pushing the limits of patience. I can't even begin to imagine how much of a pain in the @ss that would be to do.
wkuper11 - next week my truck goes under the knife and I'm porting the inside of the blower. Yes there are gains to be made from it. Whether it is worth it or not I don't know. I'm doing mine myself so it will cost me hours, some sandpaper and flap wheels. So to me any gains plus the experience of learning how to will be worth it. Paying someone to do it, well at least it is cheaper then $3k for an aftermarket blower, but:
IMO, if you are only going to run lower boost porting the stock blower is more worth it then an aftermarket one, if you're going to push alot of boost then porting the stock blower is not going to make it as effiecient as the aftermarkets one.
Check out the thread I started:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=91153
TampaBlack99 - I ported the inside of my intake plenum, and that was pushing the limits of patience. I can't even begin to imagine how much of a pain in the @ss that would be to do.
wkuper11 - next week my truck goes under the knife and I'm porting the inside of the blower. Yes there are gains to be made from it. Whether it is worth it or not I don't know. I'm doing mine myself so it will cost me hours, some sandpaper and flap wheels. So to me any gains plus the experience of learning how to will be worth it. Paying someone to do it, well at least it is cheaper then $3k for an aftermarket blower, but:
IMO, if you are only going to run lower boost porting the stock blower is more worth it then an aftermarket one, if you're going to push alot of boost then porting the stock blower is not going to make it as effiecient as the aftermarkets one.
Check out the thread I started:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=91153
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The inside is rough where I have indicated on the photo's. There are no gaskets to replace if you take the blower apart. You just have to get some loctite and new S/C oil for the nose.
I took my S/C apart my wrapping a stick with a towel and placing the end with the towel on the base of the nose piece and hitting it with a hammer on both side until it can apart. It will disassembly into three part, more if you take the blades apart also.
If there are any gains I don't know as I am still polishing the outside smooth. I've been told that there will be small gains and bigger ones down the road if I get the heads ported and polished. Can't hurt if you got the time! I used a dremel tool (30rpm) and flap wheels initialy. I then used Eastwoods greasless coumpound on a 1" sisal wheel to smooth the rest and polished with the same sisal small buff and some Tripoli.
Almost forgot, I will eventually be running a 4lbs lower pulley which will help in seeing more gains with the polishing and porting stuff.
SAVE YOUR SANITY AND SO NO TO POLISHING AND PORTING!
http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/d...02092715303429
I took my S/C apart my wrapping a stick with a towel and placing the end with the towel on the base of the nose piece and hitting it with a hammer on both side until it can apart. It will disassembly into three part, more if you take the blades apart also.
If there are any gains I don't know as I am still polishing the outside smooth. I've been told that there will be small gains and bigger ones down the road if I get the heads ported and polished. Can't hurt if you got the time! I used a dremel tool (30rpm) and flap wheels initialy. I then used Eastwoods greasless coumpound on a 1" sisal wheel to smooth the rest and polished with the same sisal small buff and some Tripoli.
Almost forgot, I will eventually be running a 4lbs lower pulley which will help in seeing more gains with the polishing and porting stuff.
SAVE YOUR SANITY AND SO NO TO POLISHING AND PORTING!
http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/d...02092715303429
Last edited by TampaBlack99; Sep 27, 2002 at 03:46 PM.
i did my upper plenum in a couple hours, came out good, could be better. the blower housing looks like it would be easier, lots more room to move around and get in there, im just worried about taking it off and apart and messing something up, where exactly does the charger oil go? the small plug on front of blower right? is it just contained in the snout? if so why would you have to change it if you dont have to remove the plug? i dont really plan on pumping a bunch of boost through the blower, still debating between a #2 or #4 or any for that matter, the truck runs great with stock boost, but i do plan on putting nitrous on. any mod that adds power or makes the motor run cooler and i can do myself for little money is a good mod. i emailed extrude hone, if they can do it for a resonable price i may consider that, not sure if they can do house though, it would be cool if they can shoot that crap through the housing and upper plenum at the same time.
The nose is the hardest part and is very hard to do with it attached to the housing. It can be done but the weight of the blower will wear you a$$ out. Turning it over and holding it up while you try to smooth out the fins is gonna suck.
so its best to take the nose off, once you take the nose off you have to change the fluid? did the grinding compound/buffing wheel work better than the flap wheel? where did you find a sisal buff small enough to fit the dremel? thanks
The link above is to the eastwood website, they sell them along with mini mandrels.
You can drain the S/C oil and reuse it but most just buy new oil. The flaps work well to remove the rough casting and the greasless compound is good for medium to light smoothing. The tripoli compound gives you that final chrome look. You could also hit it with White Rouge to give it a bright shine at the very end.
So to answer your question they are all needed inorder to achieve the desired look.
You can drain the S/C oil and reuse it but most just buy new oil. The flaps work well to remove the rough casting and the greasless compound is good for medium to light smoothing. The tripoli compound gives you that final chrome look. You could also hit it with White Rouge to give it a bright shine at the very end.
So to answer your question they are all needed inorder to achieve the desired look.
Last edited by TampaBlack99; Sep 27, 2002 at 04:54 PM.



) but what I did was sand the top smooth and had it powdercoated a shiny gray.