Power of stock stereo?
Hamma,
Are you going to use some real good quality speakers? If I can get quality sound from that system, I don't mind spending the money for really good speakers. I don't need a zillion watts and base that will rattle my brain. I just looked at upgrading the system and every radio shop was over 3 grand with subs, amps... and on top of that of course they thrash everything.
The most important point I realized driving home is that, the Lightning is a performance vehicle and amps, subs, boxes, soundproofing material add significant weight to the vehicle. That goes against what I am trying to do. Performance is # 1 for me. The Mega stereo is out but if I can achieve quality sound, I will be a happy man with more money to spend to achieve warp speed.
Dion
Engage Jean Luc...
Are you going to use some real good quality speakers? If I can get quality sound from that system, I don't mind spending the money for really good speakers. I don't need a zillion watts and base that will rattle my brain. I just looked at upgrading the system and every radio shop was over 3 grand with subs, amps... and on top of that of course they thrash everything.
The most important point I realized driving home is that, the Lightning is a performance vehicle and amps, subs, boxes, soundproofing material add significant weight to the vehicle. That goes against what I am trying to do. Performance is # 1 for me. The Mega stereo is out but if I can achieve quality sound, I will be a happy man with more money to spend to achieve warp speed.
Dion
Engage Jean Luc...
Ok, a couple things here....
I was going to replace my head unit with an Alpine but 2 local stereo shops,Circut City,and Crutchfeild all told me that there is no way to make the factory cd changer work with any aftermarket headunit.
I decided to replace the speakers with Polk DX7s hoping that it would sound better but instead it sounded worse...if you can believe that.
I finally decided to have it amped.
When i went to the stereo shop theguy asked me if i had replaced the speakers. I said yes. He said "i bet you lost a lot of sound quality didnt you?" He went on the say the factory stereo is so wimpy that it can drive most aftermarket speakers.
Anyway,I had a 50x4watt MTX amp installed and it made a HUGE improvement.
So if you want better sound you have to either.
Replace the headunit and changer{if you still want a changer}
or
Replace your speakers and add an amp.
Andy G
I was going to replace my head unit with an Alpine but 2 local stereo shops,Circut City,and Crutchfeild all told me that there is no way to make the factory cd changer work with any aftermarket headunit.
I decided to replace the speakers with Polk DX7s hoping that it would sound better but instead it sounded worse...if you can believe that.
I finally decided to have it amped.
When i went to the stereo shop theguy asked me if i had replaced the speakers. I said yes. He said "i bet you lost a lot of sound quality didnt you?" He went on the say the factory stereo is so wimpy that it can drive most aftermarket speakers.
Anyway,I had a 50x4watt MTX amp installed and it made a HUGE improvement.
So if you want better sound you have to either.
Replace the headunit and changer{if you still want a changer}
or
Replace your speakers and add an amp.
Andy G
Well, guys, here's the deal - I have a Scosche adapter in my truck, and I have my factory changer connected to my Kenwood head unit. I'll look for the package to see if I can get a model number.
(Thinking back, maybe it's a Metro? I'll let you know.)
(Thinking back, maybe it's a Metro? I'll let you know.)
AFAIK- the stock CD changer will not work with anything aftermarket. Do you really have your new HU hooked to the stock CD?? Mine is sitting in my basement, inside the stock toolbox, waiting for the sad moment of trade-in XXX years in the future.
I agree with the others; the stock headunit seems to put out about 7W/ch power. They can advertise all they want about the max power, but that doesn't mean #($*!!! RMS at >12V is all that matters! Anybody else remember the 1200W Sparkomatic amps they sold for $99? How about those "Realistic" amps - 160W for $49? BS!! I'd really like to take a couple of those Visteon EE's out for a righteous pimp-slapping! A $32K truck with a $99 sound system!! .... oops, I guess this borders on violation of the Admin's rules about improper posts. Sorry, I'll waive my 1st amendment in order to preserve the peace and fight terrorism...
Anyway - the stock system has a couple of good features: auto speed/volume compensation and RDS. Otherwise it is mediocre.
Upgrade step 1: Stock speakers! Replace with anything.
Upgrade step 2: Amp. Any 4 ch amp is better than stock.
Upgrade step 3: Head unit.
Upgrade step 4: subwoofer/amp.
I agree with the others; the stock headunit seems to put out about 7W/ch power. They can advertise all they want about the max power, but that doesn't mean #($*!!! RMS at >12V is all that matters! Anybody else remember the 1200W Sparkomatic amps they sold for $99? How about those "Realistic" amps - 160W for $49? BS!! I'd really like to take a couple of those Visteon EE's out for a righteous pimp-slapping! A $32K truck with a $99 sound system!! .... oops, I guess this borders on violation of the Admin's rules about improper posts. Sorry, I'll waive my 1st amendment in order to preserve the peace and fight terrorism...
Anyway - the stock system has a couple of good features: auto speed/volume compensation and RDS. Otherwise it is mediocre.
Upgrade step 1: Stock speakers! Replace with anything.
Upgrade step 2: Amp. Any 4 ch amp is better than stock.
Upgrade step 3: Head unit.
Upgrade step 4: subwoofer/amp.
Car audio numbers are meaningless . . .
. . . unless they specify a frequency range and distortion level, like the FTC requires of home audio.
"80 watts" could mean peak output power at 1 KHz and at 10% distortion.
TLS
"80 watts" could mean peak output power at 1 KHz and at 10% distortion.
TLS
To get the most improvement for the least amount of steps. Also if you do not need any of the bells and whistles that a new HU would give you (although most people end up not using those bells and whistles).
I would say new speakers and a good quality 4 ch amp (or even 2 ch).
I would say new speakers and a good quality 4 ch amp (or even 2 ch).
Re: model number
Originally posted by Chuck Eanes
Jeff,
Just wondering what model number were those Blaupunkt speakers. A friend of mine said these were the best replacement for the money hands down.
Thanks,
Chuck Eanes
Jeff,
Just wondering what model number were those Blaupunkt speakers. A friend of mine said these were the best replacement for the money hands down.
Thanks,
Chuck Eanes
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...CXI573&o=m&a=1
I think $59 a pair is a pretty darn good deal. I also bought the panel tool for 10 bucks as well. When I got the package yesterday I got both pairs of speakers, 2 wiring harnesses, F150 installation instructions (heck, like 12 pages of stuff!), a guide to car stereo installation, and a full Crutchfield catalog. Every time I have ordered from these people they impress me. I think total with shipping was $138. I have not installed them yet. Perhaps when I do that I will see if I can take some pictures and come up with a guide to speaker installs for us Lightning people.
They are not that hard to install, have had one in other cars that I had, They make a big change. You do not need a real big one either. 20wX4 RMS at 4 ohms , of good clean power can make a great change.
Got the first pair in last night
Very easy to install the front speakers! Open the door. Pop off upper back trim panel by edge of door (I used the panel tool for this after I wrapped it in electrical tape as not to scratch paint). Remove screw with medium phillips. Pop out door handle "cup". Remove another screw. Pop off door control panel and unplug harnesses. Grab whole door panel and lift up and out... careful, there is still a lightbulb plugged in behind panel... hold panel and twist lightbulb to remove from bracket. Take off panel and set aside. 4 screws hold the speaker in... 6mm socket. Take off factory speaker and unplug harness. Then I ran into the only snag, the positive terminal on the Blaupunkt speaker was too wide for the crimp on the Crutchfield wiring harness adapter they sent along... had to use metal file on speaker and work on it for awhile to narrow it down. After I got that adapter on speaker, plug into truck harness, screw down speaker... push cabling down so it doesn't interfere with window. Then basically snap whole door back together... be careful when pushing the door panel back down so you don't snap off door lock... and remember to plug the light and harnesses back in! The speakers sound great, much cleaner sound and less distortion... overall very happy with this cheap upgrade. I have the stock rear speakers in and adjusting the fader front to back I can really hear the difference. I will tackle the rear speakers this weekend, it was getting dark outside when I finished the fronts.
Great post & great step by step. Let us know how the backs work out. I have had some Blaupunkt speakers in the past (have a pair of 6x9's now, but nothing to put them in), and thay have worked very well.


