For those of you that put holes in your stock airbox, if you ran tubing, hose from a shop vac, etc to it, WHERE did you route the hose ? It's a pretty tight squeeze in all directions...

FWIW, I have a 2nd airbox to mod. I picked up a 2.5" holesaw, & 6 feet of 2.5" hose... That was about enough for 1 run...

All help appreciated...

Thanks,

 

Go for 4"

 

KGM, did you by any chance bend any of the rubber hoses or have to crimp the intake air hose. I know when I originally tried to route my 4" hose that way, it seemed like the rubber hoses really crimped the airflow right at that junction. Thanks in advance.

 

This is another reason I went with the 2.5" hose - I figured it would get compressed in tight spaces...

There doesn't look like an easy way to get access to the grill, or the like, I'm figuring on running them to bumper level, leaving the hose facing backwards...

 

smurfslayer - email me, dontblameme@yahoo.com

I have information that you will want to know, but I haven't thrown it on my website yet.

 

tell us all
please

 

I managed to get 1 hose connected ; it took about 5' of hose, I ran it down inside a coolant hose, into the 'wheel well area' lifting that 'skirt' & zip tieing to a bumper support w/ hose facing backwards...

If I had my druthers, I would definitely have the hoses forward facing at the upper grill area of the truck - not because of 'ramming' but that's the highest pressure area, and least air starved at higher speeds...

I would rather NOT put a scoop under the bumper...
I'm making another stop at Lowe's tonight...

 

You know, you're still limited by how much that stock airbox and filter can flow. It seems JeffsLightning experienced HIGHER intake air temps (iat) temps w/ putting in a 3" hose routed a certain way. Maybe he'll chime in here and tell us what he did to re-route and fix that?

 

But since the filter isn't actually the 'choke' point, whether or not I use the panel filter is pretty much irrelevant. The stock airbox opening is a choke point, allowing only so much (far less than 600 cfm, I'll bet) through. and, I'll venture to say that the IAT temps are lower from a hose assisted stock box, than an exposed cone, or even a shielded cone. If it turns out they do go up, then I'll insulate the hose, but I doubt seriously they will.

Thanks for the info - anybody else got pertienent pearls of wisdom to contribute

that code scanner is looking better & better...

 

Yeah, true, but I do know that it can only flow so much as well. In your mind, take the filter and wrap it into a circle. Now, compare that to a 12" powerstack for instance. Notice how much smaller the panel filter now is? Probably the panel filter is good up till a certain point.

I do know that when I do the IvanLightning Airbox Mod (<---clicky clicky) at the track I make considerable gains. Now, on the street this mod isn't what I'd recommend as the intake temps are quite high in summer heat (never less than 8 to 10 over ambient at 80 mph, and 15 to 20 at 60 ). Driving around in town they can be as high as 50 degrees over ambient (yep, I measured this yesterday). So, I'd recommend the IvanLightning mod only at the track. It also will work better after a cooldown and not for back to back to back hot laps.

For some reason I think this may have been Jeff's problem, OR either he had his hose routed in such a manner it was by some source of direct heat sooner than by routing it away to a different area??? I am not sure. I'll send him this post.

LoL, man you should see how fun this thing is to use. Lemme know and I'll get you the hookup...HOLLA IF YA HEAR ME LoL

 

The stockbox is fine with the hole in the bottom and a K&N filter for
STOCK
Lightning's...The panel filter just is not big enough to flow the numbers.
The conical is bigger but the usually the heat gain far offsets the flow
advantage. So therefore you want the best of both worlds.. You need to get a sheilded 12" conical for maximum flow plus cooler air temps. This is just my opinion. Ask yourself one thing though. How many quicker/faster Lightning's have you seen running the stock airbox? If they are out there they can chime in on what they think.. Like I said I think the best bet is the biggest filter you can fit and STILL have it shielded from underhood temps. The cooler the IAT sensor the better.....

 

Check this thread
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=87010

 

The 4" hose fits good. Just a little tight in one spot, but you can make it through. Notice the "blastgate" door, for you guys in bad climates this door can be closed. Also a little trimming on the plastic fenderwell is needed. Go to your local woodworking store or online to Delta for the "blastgate" and the 4" hose. Home Depot has a 6" into 4" vent duct and then all you have to do is make a bracket to hold it. They have a nice bracket there, remember in the old days people would drop a 2X4 into brackets on each side of a door jamb, they still sell these and it mounts to the frame just fine to hold the scoop. You also need to buy or borrow a 4" hole saw. You should be able to do the whole job for under a 100 bucks and it works great. Good Luck