Putting K&N Air Filter in the Fender?
Okay, I've done my fair use of searching. Unfortunately we can't search anything under 4 letters.
Anyhoo, has anyone tried this? Seems that there is a host of kits like this for Mustangs, but I have not seen one for our beasts, yet.
Lemme know, please.
Anyhoo, has anyone tried this? Seems that there is a host of kits like this for Mustangs, but I have not seen one for our beasts, yet.
Lemme know, please.
Originally posted by easterisland
The only thing I have seen which was close was RTKILLA's behind the front bumper.
The only thing I have seen which was close was RTKILLA's behind the front bumper.
Is he still running this setup?
Re: Putting K&N Air Filter in the Fender?
Originally posted by BfB
Okay, I've done my fair use of searching. Unfortunately we can't search anything under 4 letters.
Okay, I've done my fair use of searching. Unfortunately we can't search anything under 4 letters.
Hope this helps
Doug
"has anyone tried this(filter in fender) ?Seems that there is a host of kits like this for Mustangs, but I have not seen one for our beasts, yet. "
[SS] It would be a solution in search of a problem. The only practical reason I can think of to do it, would be to lower the intake charge temperature (from an exposed cone filter in the engine bay), but the stock box does a more than adequate job of this. There are more factors going on with the intake system than any of us are going to resolve here on a BBS
The camps seem divided into 'stock drilled or cut box w/ K&N panel' vs. the 12" cone filters. Both see about the same hp all things being equal, which is strange because the surface area of the cone filter is much more than the panel. That would lead one to believe that the intake tract is a restriction.
I think that even if you could successfully mount a filter in the fenderwell, it wouldn't gain any power over a panel filter.
What would be an interesting test is a back to back panel vs cone test on a truck with a BA-Bolt T/B, intake & an extrude honed upper, port matched to the T/B...
[SS] It would be a solution in search of a problem. The only practical reason I can think of to do it, would be to lower the intake charge temperature (from an exposed cone filter in the engine bay), but the stock box does a more than adequate job of this. There are more factors going on with the intake system than any of us are going to resolve here on a BBS
The camps seem divided into 'stock drilled or cut box w/ K&N panel' vs. the 12" cone filters. Both see about the same hp all things being equal, which is strange because the surface area of the cone filter is much more than the panel. That would lead one to believe that the intake tract is a restriction.
I think that even if you could successfully mount a filter in the fenderwell, it wouldn't gain any power over a panel filter.
What would be an interesting test is a back to back panel vs cone test on a truck with a BA-Bolt T/B, intake & an extrude honed upper, port matched to the T/B...
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Now this is not Lightning based experience, However I played with: ram air, open cone filter, enclosed cone filter, open stock filter, enclosed stock filter, and heat shielded filter set ups on my 95GT at the dragstrip & during daily driving.
To sum it up, I pretty much found that the outside temps did'nt matter much as long as I was using an open cone K&N filter.
The ram air definately helped during traffic/slow travel on 90+ deg days (in the deep south) but at the track it actually had a (IMHO) little better low end punch w/o it.
Once you are moving at a decent rate (?20mph?) or have the hood open for a cooldown, the engine compartment is going to stabalize/cool to a temp that is largely out of our control anyway.
Since I live/drive in Mi now-a-days the outside temps are pretty much below 85F most of the year anyway at the times I drive, so I'm going to run the largest open conical/cylidrical one I can. With the thought of reducing the air velocity per a given sq inch of filter media. This should allow for a smaller delta P across the oiled filter and let it do a better job of filtration.
WOT
To sum it up, I pretty much found that the outside temps did'nt matter much as long as I was using an open cone K&N filter.
The ram air definately helped during traffic/slow travel on 90+ deg days (in the deep south) but at the track it actually had a (IMHO) little better low end punch w/o it.
Once you are moving at a decent rate (?20mph?) or have the hood open for a cooldown, the engine compartment is going to stabalize/cool to a temp that is largely out of our control anyway.
Since I live/drive in Mi now-a-days the outside temps are pretty much below 85F most of the year anyway at the times I drive, so I'm going to run the largest open conical/cylidrical one I can. With the thought of reducing the air velocity per a given sq inch of filter media. This should allow for a smaller delta P across the oiled filter and let it do a better job of filtration.
WOT
I'm sure a filter in the fender can be done, but my oh my what a difficult job it would be to get one of a good size to fit. I'll let someone else do it (if it ever even happens)
I think the aftermarket has done what they can filter wise for the Lightning. Even on N/A cars / trucks, Ram air isn't really 'pressurizing' the airbox... It is feeding a morer free flow of cooler than underhood air to the motor and that's where the power comes from. You can feel how much air is ingested just by putting your hand near the filter at idle... Just imagine the suction at WFOT
It can be done, and it would definately be beneficial, the problem is packaging. You can't get a large enough duct through the fender hole to supply air directly to the motor. So you'd have to somehow bring it down through the engine bay, and to have a smoot air path that means moving some stuff or taking some stuff out.
Also, it's best to keep the MAF where it is, and not move the MAF there too. RTKilla originally moved his MAF with the filter, and had some problems, then I suggested he move it back and just put the filter in the fender, and that solved it.
The key thing is to be able to get the filter to a good spot and have the straightest air path to the MAF. That's a bit tricky on these trucks.
Also, it's best to keep the MAF where it is, and not move the MAF there too. RTKilla originally moved his MAF with the filter, and had some problems, then I suggested he move it back and just put the filter in the fender, and that solved it.
The key thing is to be able to get the filter to a good spot and have the straightest air path to the MAF. That's a bit tricky on these trucks.
I had the same idea a few weeks ago and thought it would be the best compomise between the airbox and the open filter.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=82542
My thoughts were to cut a rectagular hole about 8" square in the fender. Rig up a matching sheet metal piece with a 90 degree elbow attached to the middle of the sheet metal. The inside edge would attach to the MAF and the outer end (inside fender) would attach to the cone filter.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=82542
My thoughts were to cut a rectagular hole about 8" square in the fender. Rig up a matching sheet metal piece with a 90 degree elbow attached to the middle of the sheet metal. The inside edge would attach to the MAF and the outer end (inside fender) would attach to the cone filter.


