NOS Guys....
Tim....... progressive Nitrous controler... look it up it will do what you want
you can adjust how long it takes to get to 100% of your jet settings and more
Johnie
you can adjust how long it takes to get to 100% of your jet settings and more
Johnie
Last edited by lxtac; Jul 24, 2002 at 11:30 PM.
After reading AVDawg it seems real confusing. I will do a lot of research on nitrous before I get one. I will poss. ask Sal his suggestions and get what he perfers to be the best. I will look into this controller.
Thanks Tim
Thanks Tim
I wouldn't jump on the NOS NoZsel system right now if your new to the juice.. it is to new of a setup and has to many kinks to work out for those unfamilure with the workings of nitrous IMO. The NX kit is very safe and the controler will work well with it.
I am sure Sal will point you in the right direction and hook you up with everything you need.
It wont be to long before people like avdawg will have all the bugs worked out of the NOS system.... then it will be a new ballgame I think. Remember when the 'big shot' came out for between the upper and lower intake on the mustangs?
Johnie
I am sure Sal will point you in the right direction and hook you up with everything you need.
It wont be to long before people like avdawg will have all the bugs worked out of the NOS system.... then it will be a new ballgame I think. Remember when the 'big shot' came out for between the upper and lower intake on the mustangs?
Johnie
bottle heater
listen guys i got the NX kit and also bought the bottle heater to go along because i can appreciate how much it helps...only that mine isnt working, i am pretty sure i have it hooked up right, but obviously not cause the dern thing isnt working......anybody got any ideas? i really need the thing to work or else i am gonna have to do my best to keep the thing warm with a blanket or something........
the heater has two white wires, one is ground and the other comes from the green wire on the relay.
the pressure sensor has two wires, the red wire from the relay goes to one side of the sensor, the other side continues on to the on/ switch. i have my switch with the pressure sensor on the acc. side and the power side going to a fuse. does this sound right? i followed the instructions to a T.
thanks.............
the heater has two white wires, one is ground and the other comes from the green wire on the relay.
the pressure sensor has two wires, the red wire from the relay goes to one side of the sensor, the other side continues on to the on/ switch. i have my switch with the pressure sensor on the acc. side and the power side going to a fuse. does this sound right? i followed the instructions to a T.
thanks.............
The pressure switch should have 2 wires which are connected to coil of the relay on one side and the fused, switched 12v on the other side (switch that came with system).
The relay should have 4 wires.
1st (coil side) to ground,
2nd (coil side) to pressure switch,
3rd (N.O.) to heater,
4th (COM) to switched 12V. (some use 12v from BATT here, It's safest to use 12v that is switched on with the key switch)
The relay should have a picture of the coil(connecting line with box between) and the COM, NO, NC marked on the top of it.
The NC post is not used for this.
The heater should have 2 wires, one to ground and one from the relay (N.O.).
The best thing to do is get a volt meter and check for voltage then your relay, switch and heater ... I had a friend who had a bad pressure switch so the voltage never got to the heater. You can by-pass the pressure switch JUST TO TEST THE SYSTEM... do not leave it that way because it is UNSAFE to over heat a bottle (everyone remembers the Maxmia with the strait wired heater right?) .. a few seconds to see if the heater warms up wont hurt though. If all you have is a test light to check for voltage that info will point you in the right direction, switch, relay, fuse, wiring, or heater.
good luck
Johnie
The relay should have 4 wires.
1st (coil side) to ground,
2nd (coil side) to pressure switch,
3rd (N.O.) to heater,
4th (COM) to switched 12V. (some use 12v from BATT here, It's safest to use 12v that is switched on with the key switch)
The relay should have a picture of the coil(connecting line with box between) and the COM, NO, NC marked on the top of it.
The NC post is not used for this.
The heater should have 2 wires, one to ground and one from the relay (N.O.).
The best thing to do is get a volt meter and check for voltage then your relay, switch and heater ... I had a friend who had a bad pressure switch so the voltage never got to the heater. You can by-pass the pressure switch JUST TO TEST THE SYSTEM... do not leave it that way because it is UNSAFE to over heat a bottle (everyone remembers the Maxmia with the strait wired heater right?) .. a few seconds to see if the heater warms up wont hurt though. If all you have is a test light to check for voltage that info will point you in the right direction, switch, relay, fuse, wiring, or heater.
good luck
Johnie
Last edited by lxtac; Jul 25, 2002 at 12:45 AM.
You guys are correct...the new NOSzle system is not for the nitrous newcomers. There are still some things to get worked out.
I have been playing with this stuff for 15 plus years and this thing is giving me & the NOS tech guys fits.
A wet shot of 100hp with a progressive controller would be a simple & semi safe if you dont get to greedy with the initial percentages and keep the build times conservitive.
jb
I have been playing with this stuff for 15 plus years and this thing is giving me & the NOS tech guys fits.
A wet shot of 100hp with a progressive controller would be a simple & semi safe if you dont get to greedy with the initial percentages and keep the build times conservitive.
jb


