Problems starting truck!
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From: Anchorage, AK
Problems starting truck!
I have a 2002 Lightning with about 2200 miles and am having problems starting it. This doesn't happen all the time. Usually when the truck has been sitting for awhile it will start right up. It seems to be when it has been driven and then shutoff and then started again within 30 min - an hour. Maybe 3 out of 5 times it will turn over but the engine will not start until I give it gas otherwise it will die. I do have a JDM intake and a diablo chip but this was happening before I had those, just seems to be getting worse now. Any ideas? 
Mine is stock.
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From: Florida
Mine does it too! When I start the truck now I always turn the key forward, listen for the fuel pump and then start it.
But it still does it.
I was reading yesterday that the Rangers had a problem starting also sometimes. It was not the fuel pump or anything in the tank. I can't remember exactly but I'll look it up agian and post it. It sound like what the Rangers were doing is a lot like what my truck does. I think I even read the Probes did it too.
But it still does it.
I was reading yesterday that the Rangers had a problem starting also sometimes. It was not the fuel pump or anything in the tank. I can't remember exactly but I'll look it up agian and post it. It sound like what the Rangers were doing is a lot like what my truck does. I think I even read the Probes did it too.
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From what I remember, we last decided that it was a sensor that was getting coated with oil. Oil would splash up on it and would be tool cool to run off enough. I'll seach in a bit if I have time, but it happened to me and a lot of other L owners back in the day. Haven't had it happen in a while, though.
DUCK
DUCK
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From: TX
I remember hearing what Duck01 is saying. There a sensor at the front of the drivers side head. Held in place, I believe with a 8mm bolt. Unscrew and clean, then reinstall. Might try that first before taking to dealer.
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From: austin, texas
I have the same problem. It's not a factor or temp or if the L ir hot or cold. At random intervals, the engine will simply not turn over very well. It started at about 3k miles and still happens 7k miles later. I always wait for the "thunk" of the fuel pump, but like Onelfastlride, it still happens. 01 L, no chip, no filter, no pulley, every is stock.
Duck01 - what sensor are you talking about?
Duck01 - what sensor are you talking about?
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Here we go...just did a search for "position sensor" (it was the cam position sensor) and found my old thread. Man, I was having problems that day or something...must've been on the rag. LOL! 
Anyway...enjoy!
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...osition+sensor
DUCK
Anyway...enjoy!https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...osition+sensor
DUCK
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FYI, here's the "meat" of the thread:
The old link doesn't work anymore, but y'all should get the idea.
DUCK01: That was me. I know it sounds wierd, and may even be a coincidence, but it's worked three times for me. I was told this by an ex-Ford tech who has said it happens on vehicles besides F-150's, but the others escape me as I write this.
The fix is simple and takes about 90 seconds, which means it takes longer to explain than to do, so here goes;
The cam position sensor sticks right out of the center of the LH (driver's) cylinder head immediately below the valve cover. There is nothing else even close to it so there's no mistaking it for something else, or vice-versa.
Removal: Remove the wire first. The RH (passenger) side of the connector has a flat area about the width of a toothbrush. At the radiator end of the connector there is a flat blade you depress to release the connector.
Take a 8mm socket and remove the 1.5" long bolt. Gently pull the cam position sensor out of the head (it's about 2" long by itself) and wipe it clean. Watch you don't knock off the rubber o-ring.
Reinstall: Simple. Just reverse the above. Remember the bolt's going into aluminum so don't overtorque, and no, before you ask I don't know the recommended torque <g>, but it's not much--just snug it up. When reinstalling the wire, just make sure you hear a solid 'click' sound meaning the connector is fully reseated.
Like I said above, it takes longer to document than do...this always cures it for me -- your mileage may vary.
Hey DUCK01: I found the original thread, here tis:
https://www.f150online.com/f150board...TML/004127.html
The fix is simple and takes about 90 seconds, which means it takes longer to explain than to do, so here goes;
The cam position sensor sticks right out of the center of the LH (driver's) cylinder head immediately below the valve cover. There is nothing else even close to it so there's no mistaking it for something else, or vice-versa.
Removal: Remove the wire first. The RH (passenger) side of the connector has a flat area about the width of a toothbrush. At the radiator end of the connector there is a flat blade you depress to release the connector.
Take a 8mm socket and remove the 1.5" long bolt. Gently pull the cam position sensor out of the head (it's about 2" long by itself) and wipe it clean. Watch you don't knock off the rubber o-ring.
Reinstall: Simple. Just reverse the above. Remember the bolt's going into aluminum so don't overtorque, and no, before you ask I don't know the recommended torque <g>, but it's not much--just snug it up. When reinstalling the wire, just make sure you hear a solid 'click' sound meaning the connector is fully reseated.
Like I said above, it takes longer to document than do...this always cures it for me -- your mileage may vary.
Hey DUCK01: I found the original thread, here tis:
https://www.f150online.com/f150board...TML/004127.html
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From: Anchorage, AK
Thanks for the replies guys!
DUCK01: I will definitely try doing that. Did that seem to work for you? Funny thing is, it hasn't happened to me the last couple of days at all! Its like it happens more commonly when I have been in the throttle pretty hard.
Thanks again.
DUCK01: I will definitely try doing that. Did that seem to work for you? Funny thing is, it hasn't happened to me the last couple of days at all! Its like it happens more commonly when I have been in the throttle pretty hard.
Thanks again.
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Quite honestly, I don't think I ever did that fix. I was still in school at the time and just never got around to it. 
I haven't had the problem for about a year, now. I don't know why or how, but it just kinda quit doing it. I guess I'll have to bit the bullet and clean the sensor if it starts acting up again, though.
I haven't had the problem for about a year, now. I don't know why or how, but it just kinda quit doing it. I guess I'll have to bit the bullet and clean the sensor if it starts acting up again, though.
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Mine does that from time to time, but it just sputters a few times and then cranks right up. Seems I just have to hold the starter on for a little longer. <shrug>
I suppose since I'm virtually all stock, I could just take it in for that, the horn not working in panic mode, the seatbelt recall, the clunk, the fogging taillights, and whatever else I notice when I finally get off my lazy ace That way I can get all that done before I get into any mods, well besides the filter anyway.
I suppose since I'm virtually all stock, I could just take it in for that, the horn not working in panic mode, the seatbelt recall, the clunk, the fogging taillights, and whatever else I notice when I finally get off my lazy ace
That way I can get all that done before I get into any mods, well besides the filter anyway.
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Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Palm Coast, FL
It seems like most people in this thread are having a different problem than SVTinAK, but with similar symptoms.
For SVTinAK's problem, I would have the ECT sensor checked. That tells the PCM what temperature the motor is at, in which the PCM will command different amounts of fuel for startup.
When the motor is cold, it requires more fuel to run. If the ECT is bad, and the PCM still thinks the motor is cold when it's really warmed up, that is too much startup fuel, and the motor will be hard to start. Putting your foot to the floor, shuts the fuel pumps off giving the motor less fuel. This sounds like what SVTinAK is having happen. The ECT can be "bad" and not set a code because it's still reading in it's acceptable range, it's just not reading correctly for the actual temp.
Check out that ECT.
For SVTinAK's problem, I would have the ECT sensor checked. That tells the PCM what temperature the motor is at, in which the PCM will command different amounts of fuel for startup.
When the motor is cold, it requires more fuel to run. If the ECT is bad, and the PCM still thinks the motor is cold when it's really warmed up, that is too much startup fuel, and the motor will be hard to start. Putting your foot to the floor, shuts the fuel pumps off giving the motor less fuel. This sounds like what SVTinAK is having happen. The ECT can be "bad" and not set a code because it's still reading in it's acceptable range, it's just not reading correctly for the actual temp.
Check out that ECT.
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From: Woodstock, GA
I'm just starting to have this problem now. It will crank, sputter and die. Then I hear this kinda noise like there is a belt sliping deep sound. and then it will crank up.
I will be changing my fule filter this weekend and see what happens
I will be changing my fule filter this weekend and see what happens