Well, finally got my endlinks installed by the spankmiester yesterday. Got the Energy Suspension fronts at 1 5/8 " sleeve and the adjustable links for the rear from So.Cal. At first I was skeptical of the improvments stated. After getting a whole lot of tips from WrongdayJ I finally went ahead and did it. After the install went on a quick drive just to feel the difference. Still wasn't bought since it could've been a placebo effect on the difference felt.

The true test came today. The job site I had to find was out in the boonies. Great thing was there were alot of twisties. Man, I was going like 60to70 on a 35mph rd. weeving right through curves in utter amazement. How can such a cheap mod make such a difference? Well it all makes sense from what WrongdayJ stated. Next on my list, better tires, better shocks and anything else to improve handling. Heck, I might try out a road course one day.

If you have a drop, do this mod. You will not be dissapointed.

Once again thanks WrongdayJ for all your prior advise.

 

I did the same thing on my truck too, it made a noticable improvement.

I just did some break work on my truck today, it is nice to know I can now stop as fast as I can go straight, or around corners.

 

Don - what kind of brake work did you get done? New pads/rotors/calipers/lines?

I am starting to do research on brakes next. A while ago, I mashed the brake pedal to prevent myself from rear-ending someone and found the brakes so faded that I would not have been able to do it again immediately after.

But I'm waiting for my shocks to come in so that I can install my springs and endlinks (Hotchkis coils and leafs/PepBoys and So-Cal end links). Oh boy oh boy.

 

Man, I know EXACTLY how you feel right now. I was especially happy with the difference that the rear links made.

When I originally made a prototype set of links just to test my idea about correcting the lengths, I got some pretty skeptical responses. I wasn't even sure if it would have an effect, because everyone I talked to about this subject either doubted the theory, or simply suggested stiffer shocks, springs, or larger sway bars (which is the most common way people try to fix their 'drop-slop').

I installed the SB Performance front springs and the new links and then dropped the rear, but didn't do the links right away. Instead I drove it around. It felt good, but the rear of the truck was very unpredictable and would rapidly oversteer during even moderate speed cornering. After soiling my favorite pair of shorts one night during a multiple-spin incedent while farting around with a C5 Vette. . .I knew I had to do the rears. I made the rod-end style adjustable rear links (after getting the idea from the power steering bracket system on my '82 XJ6 Jaguar). Didn't notice ANY change while moving straight forward. BUT TURN THE WHEEL AND WHOOOO-HOOOO!!! The truck felt about 750 lbs lighter in the turns, and cornered so flat that it actually felt like the truck was being sucked through the turn instead of riding on the outdise tires.
I still smile when I think about my first 72 mph sweeping left-hand 90° turn WITHOUT HEARING THE TIRES SQUEAL, and without having to countersteer or drift to get through carrying descent speed. I actually came out of that turn at 78 mph. And a grin as big as the Joker. I was so pumped about it that ya'll must have thought I was nutz. I was shocked, and I wanted EVERY other Lightning owner to feel that feeling. There's just no equal as far as I am concerned. There are still skeptical people that I run into from time to time. To those out there who have lowered their trucks and noticed the dreaded Drop Slop syndrome- Take a ride in a truck that has corrected the links and you will be a believer instantly.

Damn that was long- sorry for the rambling. Blowntruck- you're welcome, bud. I want a ride!!! That goes for you, too, Mr. Chickenears!!

Later,

WrongdayJ

 

I put a set of Ruslows front rotors, and front and rear Porterfield R-4 S Carbon Kevlar brake pads. I have 32,000 miles on my truck so they were in need of replacement. I was surprised how much of the pads were left, but they just weren't working very good any more.
The new pads and front rotors are working great, but I still have to seat them in a little more.



http://www.nloc.net/forum/forumdispl...s=&forumid=451

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

 

Can y'all go into a little more detail about this for us dummies on the board? I have an idea as to what you're talking about (saw a post talking about cutting them down, putting a sleve on, and welding everything up), but I'm just not familiar with much suspension stuff. Why do we need to do this after a drop (ie: what physical / mechanical properties do we change where this is necessary)? Is it just due to the lower center of gravity?

Also, what about prices or part numbers? I just have the FRPP 1"/2" drop, but I'm always looking for ways to make my truck a better "all around" performer. I think I'm satisfied with my "straight line ability," now it's time to work on steering and stopping.

Any help, pictures, or explanations anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

DUCK

 

 

Don's Bolt-
Man thats the kind of brakes I want to get. I also want a well-rounded truck that doesn't just go in a straight line.

WrongdayJ-
Yup, skeptism is gone. I grin everytime on a turn. I still think I need to fine tune some more. The rear links are adjustable so that is a big plus + . The front links I might need to get alittle longer. I got the sleeve length of 1 5/8" according to my drop. Besides there not expensive so I'll get longer ones and see how it feels. You are right about it feeling so much lighter. I swear it handles better than stock. Too bad you're so far out there otherwise we could hit the curves. Maybe sometime I'lll be out there. Thanks again !

Duck01-
About all the physical/mechanical properties you need to talk to WrongdayJ. He explained everything well awhile ago.The front endlinks are Energy Suspension which you can pick up at Pepboys or from Jegs.com for only 15-20$. You subtract your actual drop from the stock end link (4inches I think). So if you have a 2" drop you need to get endlinks that measure 2" at the sleeve (4-2=2). The rear is the same thing. You can either measure cut the stock link and weld back together. I went ahead and bought the adjustable ones from so.cal racing for 70$ including shipping. Hopes this helps some.

 

Be careful on the front endlinks. If they're too short, they may cause bind with the steering components...

 

BT & Spike-
Thanks for the help. I'll do a search for his name and see what I can come up with.

 

Yup. Too short an endlink can cause some pretty bad things to happen. Shorten them only enough to account for the drop in ride height. The more accurate and precise you are. . .the better.

 

Yea. Im going to get the 2 5/8" instead of the 1 5/8" I have on now. I was noticing on sharp turns a sound kinda like a clunk. So, let you'll now how it goes.

 

Can anyone tell me what length I would need for use with an FRPP 1"/2" drop?

 

 

The Pawn,
Are those the Hotchkis sway bars?
Dion