Urgent help on GROUND FORCE lowering kit.... PLEASE.
After I installed my Ground Force front springs, the passenger side was 3/8" higher than the drivers side. I took the passenger side all apart, and re-installed making sure it was seated in both the upper and lower control arms correctly. Still the problem persists. Why???? Are thess kits just crap?? This was all done pre-alignment. Both front sides measured the same before the drop, and now there is a noticeable difference.
Anyone with any help, please chime in.
-Phil
Anyone with any help, please chime in.
-Phil
Since this is pre alignment, roll the truck back and forth, jump up and down on the front, or just drive it around the block to set the suspension. Now witht he truck on level ground take a look at the truck from the front. See if the wheel is sticking out away from the truck? and see if the driver side is tucked in toward the engine. This would be your camber. If the wheels are not at least somewhat straight you will have off measurements. If your wheels are somewhat straight and they look ok etc then I'd check the length from the left and right etc.....could have 2 different springs. If you feel really into doing some R&D, swap the springs and see what happens. BUT for 3/8 of an inch off it could be just an alignment that is needed. If you put the cam kit it (which hopefully you did already) try to adjust each side for neg camber (so the wheels tuck in a bit). Just some suggestions at the moment.
Thanks for your quick response. There is a cam kit on the driver side, and I marked it before it came off - so it is somewhat close. When I first did the install, the top of the drivers side was tucked inside the fender, and the passenger side was sticking out. When I re-installed tonight, I pushed the upper control arm in a bit - following the slot to about midway. This brought the top edge of the tire inward - not all the way inside the fender like the other side. So, is it all a matter of alignment now?? I hate to waste $$$ on alignment if it isn't going to be right.
I know this will kinda suck to do but try to get both sides as close as possible with the camber. Also are the wheels faned out (left to right when looking at the truck toe in/out) You can get it setup close to where it should be by measuring and looking at it. It just will be alot of up and down (Unless you are working on a lift or pit?) But this will at least give you an idea of what's going on and if you should bother to get an alignment.
Somehow, my previous post didn't make it here...
The cam kit was installed about 3,000 kiles ago on the drivers side. I did go out and drive it around before measurement. On the first install, the drivers side tire was tucked inside the wheel well. The passenger side stuck out a bit. On tonights re-install, the driver side remained the same, and the passenger side top came in a bit - because I moved the upper control arm more towards the middle of their slots. The difference from side to side is as follows:
Before - Front left = 32"
Front right = 32"
After - Front Left = 30 9/16
Front right = 30 7/8
Will the difference become closer once the truck is aligned??
The cam kit was installed about 3,000 kiles ago on the drivers side. I did go out and drive it around before measurement. On the first install, the drivers side tire was tucked inside the wheel well. The passenger side stuck out a bit. On tonights re-install, the driver side remained the same, and the passenger side top came in a bit - because I moved the upper control arm more towards the middle of their slots. The difference from side to side is as follows:
Before - Front left = 32"
Front right = 32"
After - Front Left = 30 9/16
Front right = 30 7/8
Will the difference become closer once the truck is aligned??
My connection is screwy tonight - sorry.
The wheels don't look fanned out. The truck goes fairly straight, but the wheel is turned a bit to the right when going straight down the road - no pulling.
The wheels don't look fanned out. The truck goes fairly straight, but the wheel is turned a bit to the right when going straight down the road - no pulling.
I think once you put the cam kit on the pass side, alignment, things should be fine. When you look at the truck does it look like it's lower on the one side.
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I can tell a difference in height looking at it from the front. The driver side view looks so much better than the passenger side view.
Should I just let them align it, and then go from there? I don't undrestand why this is so difficult - there are many L's out there with this lit on, and no problems... I always have to find the problems...
I really have no idea what the right thing to do is. I will call them in the morning and see what I can get out of them. This is stupid - I wasted another night on playing with these springs.
Should I just let them align it, and then go from there? I don't undrestand why this is so difficult - there are many L's out there with this lit on, and no problems... I always have to find the problems...
I really have no idea what the right thing to do is. I will call them in the morning and see what I can get out of them. This is stupid - I wasted another night on playing with these springs.
It's OK man, anyone who's dropped these trucks has experienced what you're going through 'till they work out all the little 'suprises'.
1. Have the alignment done. That should correct the steering tracking problem. They may need to install the cam bolt kit to bring your truck into the correct specification. Do a search on this site for alignment specs to get the SVT specific specs. . .rarely do the shops have them. DON'T let them use the regular F-150 alignment specs.
2. Have you checked your sway bar end-link lengths? When you lower your vehicle, you need to adjust the end-link lengths to match the drop/lift. This adjustment is specific to each corner of the vehicle. If you don't, then one side 'jacks' the other side and creates this lift you are talking about. It's called weight jacking and it can be very beneficial, or it can ruin the ride of your truck. . .depends on how it's used.
3. If all else fails. . .you may just have a bogus set of springs. It's rare, but it does happen. I'd try the alignment and endlink modification first, then suspect the springs.
If you need any further info, please e-mail me at:
Wrongdayj@aol.com
Thanks,
---J
1. Have the alignment done. That should correct the steering tracking problem. They may need to install the cam bolt kit to bring your truck into the correct specification. Do a search on this site for alignment specs to get the SVT specific specs. . .rarely do the shops have them. DON'T let them use the regular F-150 alignment specs.
2. Have you checked your sway bar end-link lengths? When you lower your vehicle, you need to adjust the end-link lengths to match the drop/lift. This adjustment is specific to each corner of the vehicle. If you don't, then one side 'jacks' the other side and creates this lift you are talking about. It's called weight jacking and it can be very beneficial, or it can ruin the ride of your truck. . .depends on how it's used.
3. If all else fails. . .you may just have a bogus set of springs. It's rare, but it does happen. I'd try the alignment and endlink modification first, then suspect the springs.
If you need any further info, please e-mail me at:
Wrongdayj@aol.com
Thanks,
---J
You need cam kits in both sides. Also criticle is the spring position in the lower control are. There is a sight hole that the spring needs to be visible in but not completelt cover. If one side is covered and the other is not you have foung your problem.
In the directions, it stated that both sides were different when locateing the spring in the lower control arm. The passenger side is between the two holes, and the drivers side I believe either covers the two holes, or comes right up to the first one. I followed the directions, so I don't know why this would cause a problem.


