What COP adapter are you using?

What brand window switch are you running? Does it make a difference? NOS, MSD, Summit?

What are the on and off RPM points?

 

How much voltage would I need to turn on the nitrous? Is there a reason the Summit switch costs half the price of the MSD and the MSD is about 1/3rd the price of the NOS switch?

As far as the cop adapters autometer makes one along with PEP and Sal (PSP)sells one also. Is there a big difference in accuracy or something?

 

I use our Unitech COP adapter, and I also use an MSD window switch. On my truck, the window switch activates a shift light, which I actually use to come on at my launch rpm, so I don't have to watch the tach on a pro tree. It's set to come on at 2200 and shut off at 3000 so it doesn't blind me down the track. I've checked the tach signal from the adapter against the tach reading with the NGS, and it's perfect. Hope this helps.

 

Make sure to use a relay in the nitrous system, then there is no problem with amp draw thru the system.

jb

 

There is a relay in the system already. Is there a special relay that I have to use? How did you wire yours?

 

I'm not sure exactly what you are trying to do, but I assume you want to use some kind of rpm activated device to activate your nitrous. If that is the case, you don't need another relay. The rpm switch is now your trigger instead of the microswitch that comes with the kit. So you'd wire the output of the rpm device to the trigger side of the relay (either power or ground, depending on the device output).

 

Sal, that is what I planned on doing. I just wasn't sure why dawg said I had to use another relay.

I just figured rpm activated would be better than full throttle. I might have less traction problems.

 

yep..what you guys said. I just mentioned the relay cause I know ALOT of guys that just dont put them in. Then they have troubles with the system and wonder why. I guess they are scared of all the wires. LOL

jb

 

Yep,. wiring sux, that's for sure. I think I must over a mile of "non-factory" wiring in my truck, LOL.

It's a good idea Easter. I have a progressive controller coming for mine as well. I plan to launch on less spray and add more in on the top end. I really have no choice. I just can't keep the tires from blowing off at some of these events where the tracks are bad.

 

Sal,

your gonna like tha controller, makes the nitrous system come on and feel like a turbo building boost. Plus it makes it easier to dial into track conditions. Which one you gonna use?

I am only up to 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile of extra wires...LOL

PS, any info on the roll cage kits...i gotta get one soon, I dont know how much longer they are gonna keep testing at the little 1/8 mile track without it!

jb

 

Ok dumb question? but how does the cop adapter tie in to the stock electrial system? and can it control more than one device?

 

If you go to the autometer web site they have instructions on the install of their adapter. It is probably similar to Sals.

Autometer #9117

 

It takes the cam sensor signal and converts it. These units used to cost well over $100 because the old way was to use a Ford EDIS module which isn't cheap. Now there are companies making purpose built tach adapters so they are cheaper.

Avdawg, I'll call the chassis guy again for you. The controller I'm getting is the NX Maximizer. I've used most of the available ones over the years, and I like the performance of that unit the best. None of the other units give a full 100% to the solenoid when in 100% mode.

 

We have been using the one off my old nitrous system from the turbo funnybike. It is a Schnitz Motorsports, If I remember, the one we have is like the second version they made. It has been very reliable and consistant. I think the guy that makes them for him also makes them for NOS, but in a differant color box. The digital progressive unit, not the little plastic timer cheapie. They do get everything open at 100%, or at least this one does.

jb