I just got a full suspension setup:

Hotchkis springs/sway bars
QA1 shocks
panhard bar

Should I attempt the install myself? Or just pay someone?

Anyone have any estimates as to how long it will take me (completely compotent home mechanic without a lift) vs. a suspension shop?

Coldie

 

I'd pay someone just because the frame gunk is next to impossible to remove from anything it touches (skin, gloves, clothes, tools, etc.).

Let's assume you don't remove the bed, although I'd suggest removing it because the entire rear suspension work will be MUCH faster.

If you don't mind dealing with the gunk, the rear springs are easy.
One of the rear shocks takes almost FOREVER to unbolt.

The axle bolts on the stock rear swaybar will make that one shock bolt seem easy.

The panhard bar isn't too difficult to install.

The new rear sway bar isn't too difficult to install. It just takes awhile. You'll question the mounting hardware for the axle that they supply.

By this time you'll have wished you removed the bed, but it's too late.

Installing the new shocks is easy.

The front springs aren't too difficult to remove. On the other hand, some folks give up. If you are able to remove the springs, installing them is as easy as opening your eyes in the morning after a night in bed with a hot chick. If you're smart, you'll install the new shocks when you install the springs. If you don't, you're not thinking ahead and you'll wish you did.

Then, you'll have to take it to an alignment shop.

Enjoy!

If you are interested in Bed Removal instructions, they are
here.

 

Thanks!

I'm not particularly afraid of doing the work, just questioning if I could get it in my schedule. From what you said, sounds like a negative even with a hoist for the bed.

Of course if I have the bed off, I should install the battery relocation kit....

Anyone know of one that is sold off the shelf and meets NHRA requirements?

 

Where do you purchase the panhard bar. What are the benefits?

 

Panhard bars can be obtained from ruslow. Look him up on NLOC.

The benefit is the panhard plants the rear axle in the horizontal plane. Basically the axle can't shift left/right in a turn.

Absolutely no benefit for drag racing, it will result in a more predictable turn for autocross/spirited driving.

Coldie

 

Coldie,
Go for it. I did mine in my garage on jack stands. Plan for a good days work. Mine took about 10 hours if I remember right. Would have been much faster, but I also changed all the bushings at the same time. I did not remove the bed, but it would have been easier if I did. If you do it yourself make sure you have all the torque specs for everything you change. Do it yourself and know that it is done right.

 

Man, I couldn't agree more. GO FOR IT YOURSELF!!! Plan on 10-15 hours work. REMOVE THE BED like Spike said. Makes life WAY easier. I've done this job about eleven times now on various Lightning and non-Lightning trucks and you will greatly appreceiate the clearance and ease that doing this affords. While you are in there changing the springs and swaybars. . .why not do the bushings, too? Since you will be needing an alignment after the springs go in, now is also the time for Herb's washers (to fix the 'clunk'). The alignment specs (that you will have to supply to the shop, because NONE of them seam to be able to find the correct SVT F150 specs themselves) can be looked up using the search feature here on this site. I know I have posted them as well as several others. Speedn_Bob also posted the 'preferred' specs as well at one time. Plan on buying the cam bolt kit for the alignment, too.

Like Silver-Bolt said, if you do it yourself- you know it's right. Plus, you become an excellent source of info/help for the next guy that wants to do it. And isn't that what it's all about?


Good luck- keep us posted. . .

 

Which bushing are you refering to?

Coldie

 

Save the $$ and do it yourself.

Sway Bar = EASY, plug and play (havent done the rear)

Springs (Front) = Easy also (dont forget the cam bolts and washers if you don't have them already). Rear springs = haven't tackled that one...yet

Panhard bar = instructions are step by step. I wrote a set.

Shocks = (front) plug and play, (Rear) dont know but if Sir Spike says its a biotch, it must be true.

 

The bushings are the front upper and lower control arm (A-arm) bushings. It is a bear of a job, but worth doing. The old bushing will have to be pressed out and the new ones pressed in. Both Pro-Thane and Energy Suspension have kits. The sway bars came with new end links and bushings so you don't need to buy those. The Hotchkis rear springs already have urethane also. If you decide to do the control arm bushing I can give you some tips. Not sure if my old post will come up from my install. Try a search under "Hotchkis install".

 

'Bolt,

have kit number(s) by chance? couldn't locate them on either one's website

 

It is my understanding that Miike Troyer is working on an off the shelf battery relocation kit. It will require the removal of the spare.

 

just got off the phone-ski with Prothane

upper and lower contol arm bushing kit part number:

6-212 price point of $69.95

-available through Summit, JC Whitney

Called Energy Suspension and talked to their R&D Dept. to express our interest in these goodies:

Info as follows:

4.3158 '97-01 Ford F-150, F-250 2WD Light Duty Front End Control Arm Bushing Set NOT YET AVAILABLE, eta unknown

4.2150 '97-01 Ford F-150, F-250 2WD Light Duty Rear Leaf Spring Bushing Set NOT YET AVAILABLE, eta unknown

 

Ruslow has a battery relocation gizmo. As far as the suspension install is concerned, non of it is difficult, just time consuming. The bolts I mentioned are time consuming to remove, but only if the bed is in place.

I'd suggest removing the bed and do all the work at one time. If you planned on doing it over a weekend, it would be an easy job for one person. Plus, you wouldn't have to rush it.

Spike

 

Hope this works.

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