I think the trick is reprograming the "over 5 volt" lookup table for your set of mods. We have no idea how well that is done untill it is too late. Remember that the computer is in open loop at this point and is not in a learning mode. I don't think you will get a light to warn you of the problem, just a big bang- clunk - clunk clunk - drip - drip -drip

 

What he said ^^^^^^^^^^^

 

OOPS

 

larry, what are you talking about?...my motor is still together

 

OOOPS, Very sorry qball. My question was for NCETRY.

NCETRY, did your motor ever exceed 5400 rpm?

 

it's cool...no worries, I was just like WTF? . FWIW, I think that these motors can handle a great deal of power. It looks like to me that the CNX1 program might have thrown some tuners for a loop at first and we saw what happed. I think with a good tune and keeping that MAF under control we should be able to run a good bit of power through these motors(like we don't already ) But again that's my .02

Andy

 

Here is something to think about. There are alot of reasons that rod's and other internal parts break. Detonation, and RPM's being the biggest 2 reasons. The chips that most people run do 2 major things to make more power. They lean the A/F ratio out and they raise the factory RPM limiter. So this will in turn make the safety margins built into the engine less. Then you start adding more boost with a big lower pully or smaller upper pully. Yes this increases the boost it also increases the air charge temperature. Now you have another factor in the mix. Running leaner for better power, Running higher RPM's and intake charge is hotter now you have really cut down on that safety margin. Now this combination may run down that 1/4 mile 100 times or 1 time before something happens. Because there are many variables that have not been introduced. Air temp, pressure, humidity, fuel quality etc.. etc.. etc.. When looking at modifying a vehicle no matter what it is you have to research what is going to work for your application.
If you have access to a dyno with wide band o2 sensors use it to tune your truck. When you get a mail order chip it's just that a mail order chip. It's not set up just for your vehicle it is a set of general paramaters that should work well in all situations. Operative word here is should. Now I am not trying to start any tuner wars or anything else here this is just how it is with mail order parts. There have been several posts of people taking there truck to be dyno tuned by whatever vendor they like and getting more power without changing anything else. I could go on about what would really be required to set these trucks up for racing but this post is already too long.

John..

 

Just my .02

If you are anywhere near this point in your mods, Do yourself a favor and dyno tune your truck at your tuners dyno. Don't take a chance

Andy

 

if you read the article it is not Johnny's motor it is a 99 with 01 CPU. probally a customers car
They stated with the inproved airflow with the smaller pulley that the MAF went to 5. meaning it was going to run lean . that will tell you bigger injectors are in order. before they did the last pulley change A/F was running good. There are many different factors that kill a motor , not just boost. boost is just air . heat will kill and if you see that the air temps are way better with the new blower. heat will also cause a lean condition. Like many RPM is what I feel to be the major cause of Rod failure. plus I think there is a problem with the 01 rods that noone in Corp Ford will admit.
AS soon as possible I will be trying this blower out.
But also you must understand they took the HP up to see what they could get . most will be happy with the smaller gains it gave and be safe. I myself like the 100 hp gain.

 

STRUCKBY 99: "I HOPE IT DOES HOLD UP!! That will help everyone figure out what really is going on with our internals, AND it will keep me from rebuilding a bottom end to handle that kind of power. I hope they update that article often. "

They really have to, otherwise that article would be nothing more than a stroke-job.

IMHO, dynos are great LABS, and help with real-world, but are not everyday real-world driving - with the countless variables (most are tolerable, but many are evil) offered up daily.

I hope that motor test is followed up and we get to learn more.

as the wise man said:

good judgement comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgement.

 

Page 226 of the new June 2002 MM&FF, says that though the temps were better exiting the supercharger the temps exiting the intercooler were nearly identical. So why would the KB blower be better if the temps are nearly identical where it matters?

Oh, for those concerned about the 5 volts. AutoTap will give the voltage of the mass air.

 

The KB is better due to the efficency of the unit itself, the design allows for better flow netting the higher HP , as they stated our IC's are awesome and can take all the air the KB or any other unit pushes in it . I think everyone is focusing on the 21.6 lbs of boost they run . I myself will not run that but the gains from running the Eaton maxed out and the KB at 15 psi I feel is worth the purchase for myself. I have run supercharged applications on my cars for 10+ years. I have yet to have a motor come apart due to boost. Never have thrown a rod . I have cracked a block apart though , rods etc were undamaged. It was a stock 5.0 block I was running 14psi of boost to it , and it lasted 2 years like that and was driven everyday and raced every weekend. And yes I can say I abused the hell out of it . So my outlook is If I get the KB and trash the motor at 15 psi , then I will build a motor with the cams and rods I want and run it up higher. as we have seen form this board that they can throw a rod at anytime. I remember seeing a post on a guy that did a test drive and it threw a rod leaving the lot and this was a 2002.

 

Hurricane Larry my engine only exceded 5400rpm's at the track. when it blew it was around 4500-to 5000rpm's. For some confused over what a MAF mass air flow sensor does is measures the mass of air intake without needing corrections for temperature or pressure. When people say the meter is maxxed it means the MAF is no longer able to heat the hot wire to a specified temp above the air temp comming in. Resulting in the computer seeing less air than there realy is. What is needed with the new blower is a larger MAF sensor. For anyone who wants to know more how the engines on our trucks work should look at getting Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control it is a very good book. The mods in my sig are what was on my truck when the rods broke. There is no way I was maxxing out the MAF.

 

NCETRY:

So what do you think happened in your motor that didnt yet happen to the one in MM&FF

They're running 21.6 pounds of boost, you were running 11.
Yours broke, there's did not (yet )

I'm still confused, but much more informed on what the MAF actually does.

Jason

 

Mine broke at about 7500 miles of abuse. I don't thrash it but drive it the way it was ment to be driven. I am not afraid to take it up to 140+mph every time I am out on the highway. I am sure a stock engine would handle the power of the KB blower for a couple of passes but it would eventualy come apart. After I blew my engine I went to the Chicago Auto show to see the new Cobra and talked with the nice people from SVT. I told them what happened and what mods I had and they said that the current engine is good for the stock levels of power it makes, but if pushed harder it could blow or run forever. Thats why the new Cobra has Manley rods and the iron block. They tested all kinds of engine combinations and the one in the new Cobra is the most durable. They said look for more power in the future and a stronger engine. Are biggest problem is the fact that we have a 4.17 inch stroke and one long rod, longer than whats in a 460. You can only push a rod that was designed for an engine making 260hp so far.