Those who painted stock black parts to match and brake calipers -

I know this probably was beat to the ground already, but what brands of paint to do you recommend for those plastic parts???? Something I could get at an auto-parts store, or Walmart/Kmart type place? Or would it be best that I remove the parts, prep them myself and find an auto paint shop to do the painting for me?

I've read on other message boards where people have painted calipers and they just used *.99 cent walmart paint*, that I would be leary about. I would think going with at least 500 degree paint would be a wiser choice. I know dupli-color makes a nice engine paint that is 500 degree, would that be good for calipers?

I have a compressor, and getting a paint gun is no problem. Even though I've never used one I'd imagine it's not any harder then spray paint, but if I have to mix paint myself to match, then I'd be introuble. So if I do it myself I'd prefer spray paint.

Thanks for any info,
Peter

 

captainoblivious


I would go to NAPA and get some heat proof paint, like you mentioned, for the brakes. NAPA can also fix you up with a flexible paint for the plastic parts. The plastic parts paint needs a flex agent in it if it's going to last without cracking.

I haven't painted any of my plastic parts but I have painted plenty of plastic parts, like bumpers and other body parts, in the past.

If I'm not mistaken eurathane paint has a degree of flex to it. Check with your local NAPA guy.

Tim

 

For the brake calipers I used a spray paint made by Plasti-Kote especially for calipers. Comes in several different colors (I used red on Black L) and is said to withstand temps off 800 degrees. I used a heat gun between coats to heat cure it. On for 3 weeks and still looks as new.

For painting plastic parts (tailgate handle), I used automotive grade base coat/ clear coat paints in the same paint code as the L. Make sure to used plastic primer first followed by several coats of primer (sandable spray can paint works okay). Couple coats of base then several coats of clear.

Currently working on my home-made fiberglass smooth steps that will receive the same base/clear coat job. I got the steps from a junk yard for free. Smoothed off the ribs on the steps followed by a couple of layers of fiberglass, sanding then paint. Total cost including paint will be less than $30. I plan on doing the same for the rear steps as soon as I acquire some used steps.

 

thanks for the suggestions so far.

'00BlackLightning - I wanted to do the rear steps also. Actually I would love to do as much plastic as possible but I don't know how well it would look. But the more black plastic I don't have to worry about getting wax on the better. Also for the sidesteps and rearsteps I wonder how they would look painted with the ribs? Or if it's better to remove the ribs.

 

captainoblivious
I agree with keeping wax off the plastic parts, that's one of the reasons I'm painting them. As far as the rear steps, I guess it depends on how much work you want to do. Based on the time I've spent on the side steps, I would guess about 30 hours to smooth the rear steps and painting. Without removing the ribs, time would probably be less than 8 hours total. Since I'll have smooth sides, guess I'll have to do the same for the rears. Good luck.

 

I used red engine paint for the calipers. ONE WORD OF WARNING, after painting the calipers, BE CAREFUL with wheel cleaners. I use Eagle1 A2Z wheel cleaner once a month or so to get the wheels REALLY clean. When I rinsed it off today, the red had lightened slightly to a dark orange shade. They still look good, but I will stuff newspaper in the wheel holes from now on to cover the paint.

 

How do you remove bumper corners and steps?

 

E3LilE8Harv29

Both the steps and rear bumper corners are removed the same way. Each piece has several hollow prongs that are inserted into holes in the body. Just use a set of pliers to squeeze the prong then pull out.



Anyone have a set of rear bumper steps thhey would be willing to depart with (like cheap)?