dropped my L a week ago...At first i couldn't really tell much difference because i only lowered it about 2 inches in the front and 4 in the back..somehow the rear shackles lowered to the last notch still gives it a raked look..The guy who installed it told me it would be level all the way around...Still looks good and i prefer a raked look anyway...Did anyone have to install a camper caster kit? The alignment guy at Kaufman tire told me that i had 1.6 neg camber on the left wheel and 1.8 neg on the right..He told me i needed to be at 3.0 on both wheels and suggested the kit...he told me he did a 2001 L a week before and it didn't need a kit because they did upper and lower control arms instead of springs..The more i look at my truck it looks cooler..

 

I got the bellteck kit done also about 3 weeks ago. my rear looks much lower than the front, im getting it raised 1 " tomorrow to avoid anymore bottoming out. im also getting the camber bolts put in tomorrow for an alignment.

 

I have a question for your guys,

Compared to how your trucks used to feel (handling, comfort),
would you say your truck feels better, worse, or the same?

Just curious.

 

Honestly, I think it feels worse. maybe I havent got used to it? I do feel more body roll. I for sure will need better sway bars and maybe stiffer shocks. Dont regret doing the drop though, just love the look...

 

I KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT!!!!

You ARE feeling more body roll. The reason is because the relationship between the sway bar pivot point and the lower control arm has changed. This causes LESS force to be transferred through the bar due to the lever effect travelling along an arc instead of straight up and down. You have lost some mechanical advantage in other words. This is the very thing I have been preaching to death for about two months now. The makers of most of these lowering kits fail to address this.

Here's the real scoop. You need to shorten your end-links (all 4 of them) by the EXACT amount that the truck was lowered. Then you will gain back that firm feeling again (plus a little more). Most manufacturers give you stiffer springs and shocks and as a result, most people don't 'feel' that slop that losing some of the sway bar effect introduces. Shorten the end-links and you will be pleasantly suprised at the results.

I am REAL close to being able to come forward with some pretty interesting data for everyone regarding improvements in the Lightning suspensions. But the improvements that I'm talking about are for performance street usage. The auto-cross boys on here are more atuned to the track set-ups.

E-mail me at WrongdayJ@aol.com and I can give you some of the info that I have as well as some other findings I just came across (last night as a matter of fact).

BTW- you might not want to lift the front back up 1" yet. . .I'll tell you why in the e-mail.

Later,

 

You got mail..

 

I guess a 1-2 drop isnt enouph to change that, because I have less body roll now than stock. It rides so much better too - doesnt bounce all around when I hit a bump or dip.

 

I believe that a 1"/2" drop is enough to warrant a change.

Any change in geometry influences the entire suspension system, and a small little thing like dropping the front 1" greatly changes other aspects like roll center, CG, etc.

Sometimes the effect is 'masked' because the shock is operating in a shorter range of motion (even if it is only 1"). Hmm. I don't think I said that clearly. Without getting into a huge shock absorber theory discussion. . .when you move a shock faster in a shorter space, the internal valving may respond in a way that masks the sway bar loss. Bilstiens are the best at being able to adapt and 'hide' this because of their design, which is why alot of guys can drop their L's and keep the Bilstiens without issue.

You don't realize what you've lost - untill you get it back (and then some) PLUS the effects of your new components.

This is not just limited to Lightnings either. I just did a '92 Mustang GT convertable and although the rear didn't require adjustment, the front responded WAY better than I thought it would.

Personally, I was shocked that such a small thing could make such a big difference. I wouldn't be blabbing about it all the time if it was no big deal. I don't want anyone's money, I want everbody's Lightnings to handle well. I want you to feel what I felt when I flew into a sweeping 90° left hand turn at about 62 mph with steady pressure on the accelerator and the L STUCK. On F1's. No oversteer, no whale-belly body roll. It felt like a 2800lb CAR!!! Makes you realize that the weakest link on the Lightning is the seating. It feels like a vacuum is sucking you around turns, rather than a normal turning sensation.

It's a rush I never got drag racing, that's for sure.

 

You are soooo right and I hope some owners will start enjoying the L at the track. Here's a photo of something similar (speed ???, but on the gas):


Hopefully, Berto will be visiting us at Thunderhill tomorrow. I heard there will be three Lightnings there.

Spike

 

WrongdayJ,

I've been trying to email you all afternoon but my email server is down AGAIN. I'm interested in what you have to say and would like to have some more information on handling since I'm in the process of lowering my L with a 3/4 Bell Tech kit.

Also, I have a neighbor that's a driving school instructor that said he'd "fix me up" when I'm ready. I'm itching for the twisties!

I'll get up with you as soon as possible.

Tim

 

I'm an ignoramus when it comes to suspension and sway bars so I've been doing some research. I didn't know how sway bars and end-links really worked until I read this just now.

Sway Bars/End Links

Hope this helps anyone who didn't know.