Im going to construct my own powercooler inthe next couple weeks. Im thinking about building it to the size of my stock battery and then being able to use the the plastic battery sleeve over it, to conceal it a little. Ill make it out of aluminum of course and was thinking of using a small heater core inside for the cooling effect rather then tubing. What do you guys think? And i noticed on JL powercooler it comes with maybe a fuse and some wiring what is that for ?

 

I think the electrical stuff is for allowing you to be able to turn the i/c pump on when you are waiting to stage.

Dan

 

I would think the copper tubing would dissipate heat better when submerged in ice cold water than the heater core. Since your doing it yourself, maybe do both, this way you can interchange them and put some kind of temp gauge in the resevoir, and post your findings. I would like to know myself.

 

Who did JL get his idea from???
I do remember this Black 99 L at Cecil county. That had a cooler mounted under the hood. He talked to Johnny, who was stuffing ice cubes in his factory IC resevoir (sp) and showed him his primative set up.
The heater core will work better then copper tubing. Trust me.

Racer X

 

I would say that was Spiro

--Joe

 

Sorry Joe
It was JDM's 99 L that had the origional power cooler

here is a pic, look over at the left

 

I used 2 heatercores on the one I made for under the hood. I didn't see any big difference to the tubing setup. If you had a way to circulate the icewater around the cores it may make a difference. I now have a bed mounted one twice the size of the underhood and I see it as being a much better setup. The underhood one full of ice at the end of the pass would be lukewarm water telling me it quit cooling part way through the pass. The larger bed mounted setup still has a few cubes floating around in relatively cold water. It has done it's job for the entire pass. The tank was only $25 more dollars to build.

 

Any one ever try dry ice???

 

You guys are both wrong! JDM may have had the first power cooler like his but, re-read what he said----a cooler. Some of us know. He was even first to break 11's!

 

First to run 11's would be the infamous high risk. Not sure but it seems like it took over a year for anyone else to run 11's.

My only trip to milan[which sucks] i saw him run 11's when most of us were struggling to hit 12's in 00.

 

You would have to have a transfer medium such as water but putting in water causes a ton of carbon dioxide clouds that would have to be vented off. Your "L" would look like a Stanley Steamer going down the track.

 

Several weeks before, we made a trip to Norwalk, an excellent track!, and ran behind him, his first 11! That was the goal!

 

Try this:

Taylor aluminum battery box: $80 from Excessive motorsport
25 feet of 5/8 aluminum fuel line: $30 from Jegs
optional--fuel cell cap: $37 from Jegs
drain spigot: $5 at local hardware store

Battery box is about 1/2 inch bigger than the size of our battery. Comes with hold downs and can be polished. Box is in 3 pieces, all I did was silicone the sides to the bottom plate.

You have to drill a hole for the drain somewhere towards the very bottom of the box.

The box has notches in the top that were intended for cables to run out, but works fine for the 5/8 line.

A tube bender will help in bending the line without kinking it. Got mine for about $10 from hardware store.

Bend the line to fit inside the box so that the begining and the end of the line come out of the two holes in the top of the box.

Its easier to run the cooler in the bed than to relocate the battery to the bed. You just have to buy 5/8 id hose to run to the back.

All 25 feet of the fuel line should fit in the box if you bend it to conform to the sides of the box.

You dont need the fuel cell cap (thats whats on top of JL's powercooler) because the lid of the battery box comes off, but its up to you.

www.taylorvertex.com www.jegs.com
J