i remember sal had some instructions on how to dyno our trucks properly, but i cant find them anymore..

i'm going to dyno my truck again tomorrow, and would like to make sure they are doing it correct.

thanks!

 

In Drive with O/D off and punch it from about 2800-3000 RPM in 3rd gear.

 

What LightningBoy said. You want to go to WOT at an rpm that won't cause your L to downshift--in mine, it was 3,100 rpm. Be prepared for the scream --I thought I had broken something! My dyno operator said it reminded him of a panther--deep in love ....

Dan

 

i already know the noise... hehehe

check this out.. http://home.jam.rr.com/clonetek/dyno.mpg

 

anyone else?

 

Brooks,

Make sure they tie that Beast down good. Also, I have traction problems on Dyno. I was told to bring Slicks next time.
Jim

 

I didn't have any problems letting "Catus Jack" do the drill

 

here you go .
1. Make sure they DON'T do the pull in 2nd.

2. To make a proper pull in 3rd, they will have to bring the truck to 70mph (about 3000rpm) and then go WOT from there. Otherwise the truck will downshift and the pull will be useless.

3. Make sure you clear the adaptive fuel tables by disconnecting the battery when you get there. This zeros the the fuel tables and gives you a true A/F.

4. Make sure your rear tires are at even and proper pressure. Not being right will affect the numbers.

5. If they use the tailpipe A/F reader, that's ok. I've found when they work right, they are only about .1-.2 leaner than a reading with the bung sensor.

That's pretty much it. Try to get graphs with hp, tq and A/F on them, and get the graphs with rpm, not mph. Those will be most helpfull. I included the "procedure" stuff above because you'd be surprised how many dyno shops have no clue how to dyno a Lightning. Have fun!!

 

One more thing i would like to add is make sure your dyno is set on SAE corrected and not STD which as of late i have seen several people posting there numbers that were using STD and there is a big difference between the 2 and is meaningless unless all of us our on the same correction factor!

Matt

 

Thats what the dyno guys did on mine (3rd ~2800rpm+) when I got it done...took it from about ~70 to ~110-120mph, I forget...

Daniel

 

I've been told by a tuner that the BEST way to get a TRUE reading of thrd gear is to start in SECOND. Go WOT then shift to third. Why? Well the way it was explained to me was that simply matting it in third will skew the A/F ratio. The truck is not loaded similar to a TRUE WOT run or a 1/4 mile run. It takes a some time for the engine to be truely loaded. I haven't went out on the road yet and held in second, matted it then shifted to third. I'm not sure at what point you can shift into third and still be below the peak torque to give a true "as run at the track" reading.

Made perfect sense to me when it was explained to me. Wish I could explain it alittle better.