What is a fair price to pay to have it done. Fluid included in the price. Diagnostics? Any help would be appreciated.

Roger

 

I would not pay more than an hours labor. It's a simple job. Drop the pan, pull the filter, unbolt the old one, bolt in the new one. For a trans shop, it shouldn't take them more than an extra 10 minutes over a regular fluid and filter change to do it.

 

That's what I "thought". I've had 4 estimates all over $155.00 and one at $260.00. It sounded way over the top to me.

 

I get that question a lot, from people who think they are getting too high of a price. I think most trans shops are under the impression that it's a "shift kit" where THEY have to dissasemble and built the valve body, because that's all that's been available in the past.

 

Yeah, I just talked to one of the guys again and he's quoting a book price. Nobody wants to budge. I'm not experienced enough to feel comfortable doing it myself. I may end up having to take it on the chin. Thanks a lot for the quick answer, Sal.

 

I wouldn't even pay someone to do it. It's simple. Plus the money you save for labor you could put towards any needed tools, plus the 4x4 tranny pan and filter.

Jack up the truck enough to get in.
If your replacing the tranny pan, just punch a hole in the older one to drain most of fluid.
Remove old pain.
Carefully remove filter b/c it has alot of fluid in it.
Swap line mod valves.
Replace everything.
Fill with fluid.
Clean mess.
Wash hands with orange soap.


Should take only 45-60 min,

 

Odin,

Do it yourself. I'm an average wrench turner that knows his limits and will be swapping the valve body. Simple drain, unbolt, remove, replace with new, button it up, and refill

The only special tool required (and can rent) is an IN/LBS torque wrench. Otherwise a floorjack, a set of good jackstands, and decent socket set.

Or, you can drive to Indy and pay me $155 to do it for ya...

Bob

 

 

The problem here guys, is not whether I can do it myself or not. It seems easy enough. Torque wrenches and I do not get along at all. Any time I do anything involving a torque wrench, it ends up costing me money, time, and probably a few years off my life, too. I'd rather pay a pro than take a chance on this one. Jeeez, this is embarrassing.:o

Roger

 

Roger,get a hold of yourself man! Stop your whimpering and get out there and do it!

 

NBS,

Don't hold back. Tell me what you really think. LOL

 

what is the difference between the line mod....and the complete valve body. Any pics/diagrams with install instructions? Thought I seen it on either Psp or Jdm's site, but can't find it. Which would be the recommendation.....line mod or valve body?

 

Hey Odin, you live in NC dont you. Hell, buy the fluid, bring it to me and I'll do it for you. There is nothing to it. I live in Raleigh btw.

 

Tallimeca,go to Sal's site for the valve body.JL or JDM for the line mod.

 

mbrown,

That's real nice of you; but, NozeBleedSpeed has called me out. Now I have to do it myself. I will, however, be posting about something that shouldn't have happened, but did anyway, in the next few days. I have a 6th sense about these things. I got the B&M pan to go on in place of the original, also. Thanks for the offer!

Roger