Is there any benefit with these. I have read many places that these engines are designed to run at x degrees and perform best in that range.
But on the other hand, cooler is usually better when it comes to engines.......

 

Just put one in 2 weeks ago after pounding these boards for info regarding them. There have been dyno tests that show power increases and claims of reducing detonation with their use. There have also been those that claim it runs too cool and could possibly cause more wear on the motor. There have been claims of both lower AND higher E.T.'s. My reason? I just keep trying things that should, logically, help reduce E.T.'s. Haven't had a chance to test it yet due to hibernation but, come spring and I'll let ya know! By the way, it's a Hypertech 160o (they actually function fully at 170o) and it cost about $20.

 

A L that is running more boost than stock would benifit from the 160* thermostat because if the engine block is running cooler than there is going to be less chance of pre-igniting in the cylinders or Detonation. If your having to run a lower octane such as 91 it would also help out. Hope this helped ya.

 

I'am running a 170 degree thermostat that is the coldest JDM recommends. I also am running the NGK TR-6s I think the two are a good combination with my 4# pulley for no detonation.

 

170 degree thermostat + NGK TR6 =

 

Running slightly cooler could only BENEFIT the motor.

 

Today was the first time I could run the 1/4 and I got a new best(see sig.) with the 160F thermostat. Mine is a daily driver too--runs good around town and on the track. It shows 75-78C which is(as someone else said) around 169-171F.

Dan

In rereading 'this', it looked like I was saying the 'stat made the difference--not true. It helped(or didn't hurt) but the extra 2lbs of boost, new th/body, Fast Air, and the reburned chip made the difference from last Nov. when I ran a 12.791@106.59(in cooler air too--51F vs 67F for the new best).

 

OK, thanks. With the heat here in FL, cooler is usually better. It is a cheap and easy mod to do, so I may just do it.

 

The Ford scanner showed my truck running at 168 deg f on each head with the 160 stat.... Sounds good to me....

 

I put a 160* stat in my 10 sec '96 Z28, and in the winter the heater would only blow cold air. The engine ran *very* cool. I'll stick with the stock one in the truck...remember guys, it's okay if you leave some parts of these beasts stock

 

My 99 SS had the 160* stat installed. I wasn't running anywhere near 10s, but w/ 330 rwhp, I had no problems with the vehicle at all. I would recommend them as a safeguard against detonation at least.

 

Odin's Wrath...O/T:
How did that LS1 hold up to mods? It took a 383, a solid roller, and a 7000 rpm clutch dump to run 10's N/A. I hear the fast LS1's are much more streetable.

 

rscoleman,

The A4s had problems with the tranny if you did too much to them without a rebuild. My M6 only had external mods to get to 330 rwhp. (Whisper lid w/K&N filter, Borla Exhaust, 160* stat, Hypertech power programmer, GMS MAF, ported throttlebody and the bottom cut out of the stock air box). I put 40,000 miles on it without ever having to take it in for anything other than the T-tops leaking when I first got it. I have a buddy who runs a 100 shot through his fairly regularly and hasn't had any problems yet. His is basically stock except for a Flowmaster muffler.

The twin turbo setup they have for the LS1 f-bodies is the way to go if you ask me. I don't know how the engines will hold up to 750 hp but they would be very much like driving a stock vehicle until you got into boost. The guys over at LS1.com could answer that a lot better than I can.

I've never been what anyone would call a street racer; but, I never ran against anyone off the track that I couldn't take in that car. Probably because the guys that really have something that runs usually don't spend every minute of their day trying to prove it. I ran a couple of Ls before I got mine. I assume they were stock. I beat them very badly.