Sal,

You mentioned that the NGK TR7 and TR8's are non-resistor type and may prematurely wear out the coil packs... So my question is: Are the TR6's non-resistor as well? and will they damage the coil packs?

Is there a NGK BR6EF? that would be equivalent to TR6 but is a resistor type plug

thanks

 

Roger, I'll see if I can get the Truck Traks up on the site tonight.

70Mach1, the TR6s are a resistor plug. According to NGK, there actually is no "offical" TR7 or TR8. There are "race" plugs that some are using with similar names that most people "call" TR7s or TR8s. The BR7 is the correct plug we should be running according to NGK race tech, for nitrous and for high boost.

 

44,000 miles, original plugs, truck never misses a beat.

Jerry

 

When I talked to the guy @ NGK and he told me the BR7EF he said the plugs would be fine if I did not do a whole lot of city driving. Cursing and WOT you will have no problem. Putting the plugs in today. I use the truck as a daily driver and used the race R5671A-7 (wrong) plugs. They were the same type of plugs (non projector and heat rating of 7) and did not have a problem with fouling.

 

When does your sense of feel say it's tight enough?

No anti-sieze, thats the first I heard of that suggestion. Guess some of the people on here change their plugs so many times they don't have a chance to sieze.

 

This will give you an idea of the torque. I don't think anyone uses a torque wrench for the rear plugs because with all the extensions it will probably give a false reading anyway.



I used anti seize and one of my plugs blew out. I don't know if it had anything to do with anti-seize or maybe something else. It was the 2nd cylinder and most who have had a plug blow it was on that cylinder. At least that is what I found searching out people who have had plugs blow.

 

Which side is #2? drivers/passengers?

 

I'm pretty sure they are numbered front to back beginning on the passenger side. That is what I was told.
ie. closest to passenger headlight is #1, closest to firewall on passenger side is #4, closest to driver headlight is #5, and closest to driver side firewall is #8.

 

11-27-2001 09:24 AM

11-27-2001 09:32 AM

 

That officially makes me an internet junkie!

 

You mentioned that the BR7EF plugs could foul under normal every day driving with 4+ psi extra boost and some track time... What are the simptoms of a fouled plug? What should I feel? Hessitation? Sputtering? Please explain a little more...

Thanks,
JC

 

LightningTuner
Can you give me a suggestion of what plug and what gap to run with a Jacobs ignition. I have 4.6l. Otherwise I have the chip, filtercharger and exhaust. I am not boosted. I have had a lot of problems with "miss fires" and sometimes the spark is jumping to the block (even after using spark plug grease). I have been running the .060 gap suggested by Jacobs. I am frustrated and have considered going back to the stock ignition. I do like the performance of the Jacobs when it is running good so am open to suggestions.

 

A split second before th eplug breaks, or the head strips.

Jeff

 

WLF- I will bet the farm that your problem is your Jacobs ignition system. I went through 3 ignition systems and could not get one that would work longer than a month. It would be fine then I would lose almost all spark. And to beat all when I called in for a refund they would not even let me speak to a manager. ALL I could do was send in a letter asking for a refund. So i did and was denied. All I got was another ignition system. I was so tired of chaning them out that I just sold it on Ebay!!! Dr Jacob's you need to get with the program and get some better service or you will finding a new line of work real soon!!!

Ahhh.... I feel better now!!

 

Nope, the ignition fires strong enough to jump to the block. I can see where it is frying the dielectric grease and turning it into powder. Problem seems to be either the gap or the plug.