I rarelly take the L to the local 1/4 mile track, so I'm not really interested in "track traction." I know there are several traction aids available, and I HAVE searched, but which one performs best on the street?

Since it seems as if Nitto will never release their drag radial, what 18" tire is best? I'm considering going with a set of truk-traks and the Nitto 305/55/18 (non drag radial, until they're released).

Should this combo work well on the street? thoughts, opinions?

 

I don't go to the track - I just wanted a street solution for traction and Jay's Truck Traks with the F1's work very well.

 

but with that 'big' a tire, you're ets may suffer?

Dan

 

Ok...

I've tried Caltracs... and I currently use the Nitto's you are considering...

The Caltracs did give a slight improvement on street traction, but mainly due to reducing axle wrap... Wheel hop just isn't an issue on the street, or at least not in the case of MY L.

The Nitto's on the other hand WERE a "bigger" improvement... But with a price...

There is a noticeable decrease in tire spin with the Nittos... A lot of that is due to less leverage from the larger outside diameter tire... so, you will lose a little leverage, and you will not use the available torque as well down low... This would usually result in a slower 60'.

HOWEVER!!! I think that the additional traction from the larger contact patch... (improved by the larger diameter AND wider tread) more than make up for the loss in leverage. The only data I can back this up with is numerous 1.9x 60' times, and the fact that I launch at 15-1800 RPM's at the track... with very little tire spin. With the F1's, I RARELY had less than a 2.xx 60' time. Driver preference? Driver ability? hmmmm.... Maybe so?

In addition, the larger diameter should HELP you on the top end... ie. a higher trap speed... Many Nitrous L owners are frustrated right now because they "run out of gear" before they finish their 1/4 mile run... Mainly because they are using 4.10's and 26" slicks... INCREASING the leverage dramatically, but topping out in speed before the end of the track... Not as much an issue on the street...

At the 1/8th mile track in Sealy, I seem to have a better shot at beating the average WS6 driver, because the L's higher torque gets us into the powerband quicker... as opposed to highway driving where most TA's and SS's do better... Of course they have less shifting to mess up too...

 

rscoleman
I have the JDM traction bars, they hook up great on the street, and also on the track. They even help a little in the twisties. I know they cost a bit more than Jays Truck Tracs, but I bet you will like them.

 

Thanks for the help guys...
I really want a set of JDM bars, but they seem too expensive for what your actually getting. On the other hand, you get what you pay for. Decisions, Decisions...

 

Mark here (LFP). If your interested and can be patient, I am working on bars that I now offer for the Gen1 guys. Let me know. I am having them fitted for the Gen2 .
Mark/LFP

 

I am with rscoleman. JDM's bars look like the best set up available so far, but are extremely over priced for what they are. I'm waiting for someone to come out with a reasonable alternative.

Mark, keep us updated on your new ones.

Right now it looks like I'll be going with the Cal-Tracs.

 

RS, the Truck-Traks are reasonable in price, easy to install, and effective. I worry a little about the Rancho set-up running under the exhaust system. I don't know about any problems yet.

I haven't seen them on a lowered truck, or one that has towed a trailer or carried a heavy load. Do you tow your Super Comp car with the Lightning?

I think beefcake towed his Cobra over the weekend, and left his Truck-Traks on.

 

I have the JDM bars and the 305's on my truck. They hook up relatively well on the street while the tires are new, but after you get through about fifty percent of the tread, I believe, they are actually worse than the F1s.

The reason for this is probably the harder rubber makeup of the tire. If you don't do a lot of burnouts (Yea Right!) they will last a long time. I'm on my second set of rears (18000 miles on the first set) and the fronts are still like new.

I am running 4.10 gears (nets to 3.73 with the 31.2 height of the 305's) but traction with this beast is nominal at best anyway.

Like I tell the F1 guys that want to run from a kick-down...........You're just going to have to learn how to DRIVE it..............that's what racing is all about! (no flame intended)

 

I dunno guys........... I kinda like leaving a red light while agressivly lowering my right foot and hearing the tires breaking loose through 1st and 2nd!! No kidding, I have had people at the next light roll up their windows and lock their doors!! LOL! Whats all that about?? Ahhh, I love this truck!

 

I too have traction issues. In preparation for my last attempt at 12's, I just removed my front sway bar for better weight transfer. I have done numerous 0-60mph times with my gtech, the best being a 4.55. So today i went out before i removed the sway bar and best was a 4.62. After removing the sway bar, my first run was 4.44, my absolute best ever! Coincidence, maybe...but it sure cant hurt any.

 

Jay-
No, I don't tow the race car with the L, that's what the Silverado is for . However, the truck is lowered, and I too have concerns about the JDM bars on a lowered truck. Do your truck-traks have enough adjustability to accomadate a rear 2" drop (belltech shackles)?

Mark-
I need some traction soon, so I don't know about waiting on the bars. However, I WILL be ordering some of your F/G springs and upper pulley kit as soon as possible. The weight savings on those springs is just what I need. Thanks for the e-mail update, by the way

SVTDAVE-
Did the lack of sway bar kill your handling on the street? I only race...er...take part in "comparitive driving competitions," about once a month

Thanks guys....

 

rscoleman, I didnt really feel that much difference when i drove off without it. I guess it leans more in the corners, but not really all that noticeable. I don't drive that fast anyway, especially around corners, so its fine with me. But i will put it back on, for safety reasons, in case i have to swerve or something on the highway.

 

Rs, the Truck-Traks are compatibly with the 2" drop shackles. Several customers have this combination. I do recomend the snubber spacer kit, as it has a tendency to increase the clearance between the snubber and spring when you drop the truck.

Sal has this combination on his truck, and he can get the clearance down around 3/4" I believe. Maybe less.

There are no exhaust clearance issues, unless you install them too far forward. This problem is easily corrected.