Well this will now be the 3rd project that im going to build on my own (powercooler and ramair are still pending) since it's just that much more fun. however, i have no idea what kind of metal to use on the bar itself. how flexible, how heavy, how thick,... for the people that make them i'm sorry i'd love to just buy it from you but im just running a little thin on budget atm but my need for speed will eat my soul if i dont feed it. if someone could go out there and tell me how long the bar is and if you know your stuff what it's made of that would really help me. i have alot of ideas from just looking at a bunch of products how im going to build one, but i can't tell from pics what something is composed of.

Mark

 

Mark, I did the same back in April. I couldn't get the type of traction bar that I wanted, so I built them. No I build them for anyone. They are called Truck-Traks.

It took me an entire weekend of cutting and welding to get them the way I wanted them. I TIG welded them together, so it was a long tedious process, but the results were worth it.

When I was done, I had the first generation of Truck-Traks. I currently am marketing the second generation and prototyping the third. Good luck.

BTW Truck traks aren't really that expensive, when you claculate your time. I put a $$ figure on my time required to bulid the first set, I figure they cost me about $1000 to build.

 

HI!.... SPADE : I too had a problem, justifing paying almost $500 (CAN) for a set of traction bars, so I build my own. Only took me a good part of a day. I used 2x3 square box, 2x2 square box, 3/8 inch flatplate, and some 1/8 inch flatplate.Mine are also all TIG welded. Mine have NO open tubing and are fully boxed. Mine are almost exact duplicates of JAY's TRUK-TRAKS. Great mines think alike I guess!LOL! It's surprising how close our two traction bars are and I just found out about his!LOL! I built 3 sets and they only cost me about $200(CAN) to build, and that's including everything. I've givin away a few sets for about $100(CAN) over the price they cost me to make. Just to let you guys KNOW I don't make these for profit, just for some close freinds!!!!!!! They are VERY easy to make though. GO FOR IT.

 

thanks for the reply to guy. neal i think that im going to go for an open design though. it just seems easiest and i want to be able to remove it after the track. just so that i keep the pressure off the bars while drive. Jay not to be mean buddy i love people who help others but i can buy the same thing from Pep-boyz for $45. well ill just have to do a little more work i guess

 

Spade$, no offense taken. If you want to release the tension from track to street, Lakewood makes two different height snubbers.

Last night I took a bunch of stuff to the track, so I just installed the short ones for the drive up there. Rienstalled the longer ones when I got there.

Hope this helps.

 

See

http://www.ncs-stl.com/Images/MVC-597S.JPG

http://www.ncs-stl.com/Images/MVC-598S.JPG

These are standard parts from B-Line at

http://www.b-line.com/product/

or http://www.b-line.com/product/SS99/images/08FN80.jpg

the one bracket is a B113 and is a bolt on with 1/2" bolts The stock holes even line up with the holes in the bracket. The flat piece is a b261-18 cut down to get the holes to match up. Industrial electrical supply houses stock this stuff. I am still working on the connection at the axle. Anyone have any good ideas?

Hope this helps

Andy

 

HI!... SPADE$ : When I said that I fully "BOXED" them, that means that there are NO open ends on any of the tubing. This make's the traction bar twice as strong and keeps water from sitting in the tubing promoting rust from the inside out. Also I have designed different adjusters to lengthen or shorten the snubbers for personal preference. I can also remove both my traction bars off my truck in less than 5 minutes.