?? About stock Boost Gauge
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
I just installed some Autometer Phantom gauges in my L...boost gauge was an easy install. If you do a search, you'll be able to find the Step by Step very detailed write up on how to install it. The vacuum line is located under the dash on the driver side to the right of the steering column. you can't miss it...it's black tubing with a Ford part number sticker on it. You'll see where you can tee into the line. Just pull apart and insert your tee...word of advice, the vacuum tee is a B@TCH to find at he autoparts store...I just used a couple of 1/8 barbs on a brass tee fitting. Gauge looks nice when lit up at night! if you need any help feel free to shoot me an email...the write up is actually pretty helpful.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
here it is........
Here's the write up...I used a 2 1/16" dual pillar pod with 2 1/16"Boost and Volt gauges....Hope thsi helps.
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Phantom Boost Gauge, #5801
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Single Gauge Pod, #15305
1 - Rubber vacuum 'T' connector, 7/64"
3' - Black wire, 18awg
3' - Blue (or White) wire, 18 awg
4" Heat Shrink Tubing
Total Cost: $80.00
Tools Required:
Drill, with a 3/16" bit
Dremel ( or a drill with a large bit will work )
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Iron
Skill Level: Entry to Mid level. Don't be afraid to cut your door pillar trim.
Installation Time: 1 to 2 hours. Depending on skill level and ****-retentiveness.
Installing the Gauge:
Step 1) Mark the location of the Autometer Gauge pod. Choose your location based on personal preference. I recommend inserting the gauge to get the best location for your physical needs. For my install, I positioned the top of the gauge pod 17" from the top of the pillar trim piece. Mark the top and bottom of the gauge pod on the pillar trim using a pencil.
Step 2) Remove the factory pillar trim. Lightly pull the trim from the top. There are no screws, just a few push-on clips holding it on.
Step 3) This is a good time to use some fine sandpaper or a fine file to remove any sharp or obtrusive edges that may be on your gauge pod. Align the gauge pod on the pillar trim according to your marks made in step 1. Drill 1 3/16" hole in each corner of the gauge pod. I drilled about ½" from the top & bottom edges and about ¼" from the side of the gauge pod. Be sure to go through the pillar trim too. After drilling each hole, insert the trim plug provided in the Autometer gauge pod package.
Step 4) Turn the pillar trim over, so the gauge pod is facing the ground and make a hole for the boost host and electrical wires through the back of the pillar. The holes should be towards the bottom of the gauge pod ( where the bottom, back of the gauge will be ). Its easy to use a dremmel tool but you could also drill a couple large holes.
Step 5) Put the green cover over the gauge light. Solder the 3' black and blue wires to the existing black and white wires of the autometer lamp. Note: I used a blue wire only because I think of it similar to a amplifier's remote turn on lead. Cover with heat shrink tubing.
Step 6) Connect the ¼" to 1/8" brass adapter to the back of the gauge. Be sure to use Nylon Plummers Tape (NPT) or an equivilent sealer on the threads. Insert the boost tube through the brass sealing nut and ferrule. Tighten hand tight plus ¼ turn.
Step 7) Run the Boost hose and light wires through the holes in the pillar trim and insert the gauge into the pod. Test the fit and also the boost hose & wires for kinks or bad fits. If needed, make a larger hole for the wires & hose to run through. When a good fit is obtained, remove the gauge about half way out of the pod.
Step 8) Run the wires and boost tube down the side of the dash into the fuse box area. It will help a lot to remove the plastic trim cover from the fuse box area.
Step 9) Re-install the pillar trim in the truck.
Step 10) Attach the black (ground) wire to an appropriate grounding point. I used one at the bottom of the fuse panel.
Step 11) Connect the blue (power) wire to the dimmer circuit. I used the good old dimmer fuse for this. It is a 5 AMP fuse located in the 2nd row, the 4th one from the bottom. Remove the fuse, insert the wire into one side, and re-install the fuse.
Step 12) Disconnect the factory 'L' connector from the factory boost hose. This 'L' is located just under the bottom of the dash, just to the left of the gas pedal. The factory boost hose can be identified coming from the firewall. Its black, hard plastic, with the Ford part# tag on it.
Step 13) Using the 7/64" rubber vacuum 'T' connector, connect the 2 factory boost hoses and the new Autometer hose (clear).
Step 14) Site in the drivers seat and get the best angle of view to the boost gauge by twisting the gauge clockwise/counterclockwise. When you have the best view, finish inserting the gauge into the pod.
Testing the installation:
Step 1) Start the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show a vacuum.
Step 2) Stop the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show 0 (zero). I found my stock gauge to show vaccuum.
And now the part we have all been waiting for……….. Test Drive the Lightning. Out of curiosity, I found myself paying more attention to the gauge then the road, so be careful!!!
Pros: It looks cool!! Really, it will provide a much more accurate boost reading than the stock gauge. If you are curious or plan on uping the boost, it's a must. It really does look stock with the black gauge pod.
Cons: Working with that hard plastic boost tube is a real P.I.T.A. (Pain in the ***). Finding the rubber vacuum 'T' connector at the local parts store. For a $1.50 part it sure is hard to find.
Email me if you need more help.
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Phantom Boost Gauge, #5801
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Single Gauge Pod, #15305
1 - Rubber vacuum 'T' connector, 7/64"
3' - Black wire, 18awg
3' - Blue (or White) wire, 18 awg
4" Heat Shrink Tubing
Total Cost: $80.00
Tools Required:
Drill, with a 3/16" bit
Dremel ( or a drill with a large bit will work )
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Iron
Skill Level: Entry to Mid level. Don't be afraid to cut your door pillar trim.
Installation Time: 1 to 2 hours. Depending on skill level and ****-retentiveness.
Installing the Gauge:
Step 1) Mark the location of the Autometer Gauge pod. Choose your location based on personal preference. I recommend inserting the gauge to get the best location for your physical needs. For my install, I positioned the top of the gauge pod 17" from the top of the pillar trim piece. Mark the top and bottom of the gauge pod on the pillar trim using a pencil.
Step 2) Remove the factory pillar trim. Lightly pull the trim from the top. There are no screws, just a few push-on clips holding it on.
Step 3) This is a good time to use some fine sandpaper or a fine file to remove any sharp or obtrusive edges that may be on your gauge pod. Align the gauge pod on the pillar trim according to your marks made in step 1. Drill 1 3/16" hole in each corner of the gauge pod. I drilled about ½" from the top & bottom edges and about ¼" from the side of the gauge pod. Be sure to go through the pillar trim too. After drilling each hole, insert the trim plug provided in the Autometer gauge pod package.
Step 4) Turn the pillar trim over, so the gauge pod is facing the ground and make a hole for the boost host and electrical wires through the back of the pillar. The holes should be towards the bottom of the gauge pod ( where the bottom, back of the gauge will be ). Its easy to use a dremmel tool but you could also drill a couple large holes.
Step 5) Put the green cover over the gauge light. Solder the 3' black and blue wires to the existing black and white wires of the autometer lamp. Note: I used a blue wire only because I think of it similar to a amplifier's remote turn on lead. Cover with heat shrink tubing.
Step 6) Connect the ¼" to 1/8" brass adapter to the back of the gauge. Be sure to use Nylon Plummers Tape (NPT) or an equivilent sealer on the threads. Insert the boost tube through the brass sealing nut and ferrule. Tighten hand tight plus ¼ turn.
Step 7) Run the Boost hose and light wires through the holes in the pillar trim and insert the gauge into the pod. Test the fit and also the boost hose & wires for kinks or bad fits. If needed, make a larger hole for the wires & hose to run through. When a good fit is obtained, remove the gauge about half way out of the pod.
Step 8) Run the wires and boost tube down the side of the dash into the fuse box area. It will help a lot to remove the plastic trim cover from the fuse box area.
Step 9) Re-install the pillar trim in the truck.
Step 10) Attach the black (ground) wire to an appropriate grounding point. I used one at the bottom of the fuse panel.
Step 11) Connect the blue (power) wire to the dimmer circuit. I used the good old dimmer fuse for this. It is a 5 AMP fuse located in the 2nd row, the 4th one from the bottom. Remove the fuse, insert the wire into one side, and re-install the fuse.
Step 12) Disconnect the factory 'L' connector from the factory boost hose. This 'L' is located just under the bottom of the dash, just to the left of the gas pedal. The factory boost hose can be identified coming from the firewall. Its black, hard plastic, with the Ford part# tag on it.
Step 13) Using the 7/64" rubber vacuum 'T' connector, connect the 2 factory boost hoses and the new Autometer hose (clear).
Step 14) Site in the drivers seat and get the best angle of view to the boost gauge by twisting the gauge clockwise/counterclockwise. When you have the best view, finish inserting the gauge into the pod.
Testing the installation:
Step 1) Start the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show a vacuum.
Step 2) Stop the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show 0 (zero). I found my stock gauge to show vaccuum.
And now the part we have all been waiting for……….. Test Drive the Lightning. Out of curiosity, I found myself paying more attention to the gauge then the road, so be careful!!!
Pros: It looks cool!! Really, it will provide a much more accurate boost reading than the stock gauge. If you are curious or plan on uping the boost, it's a must. It really does look stock with the black gauge pod.
Cons: Working with that hard plastic boost tube is a real P.I.T.A. (Pain in the ***). Finding the rubber vacuum 'T' connector at the local parts store. For a $1.50 part it sure is hard to find.
Email me if you need more help.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 729
Likes: 0
From: 5 minutes from the fastest track in Texas
I found a rubber T at Auto Zone that worked great in place of the original 90. Just remove the 90, replace it with the T, and insert the line comming from the guage. It's very easy and clean looking (not that too many poeple will be looking at it)
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
There isn't a Voltmeter on the L's gauge cluster...unless I haven't been looking correctly! 
Let me go check so I don't feel like an idiot.....
Let me go check so I don't feel like an idiot.....
Last edited by D-townSVT; Sep 29, 2001 at 07:20 PM.
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
kitbuf,
Try Summitt and Jegs...best prices by far. I didn't want to cut into the heater core hose, so I opted out of the mech. Water Temp gauge. If you don't like the Big Ol' Volt gauge then stick with a single pod and boost gauage...... either way, dual or single pods, looks good.
Try Summitt and Jegs...best prices by far. I didn't want to cut into the heater core hose, so I opted out of the mech. Water Temp gauge. If you don't like the Big Ol' Volt gauge then stick with a single pod and boost gauage...... either way, dual or single pods, looks good.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
pods
Originally posted by D-townSVT
kitbuf,
Try Summitt and Jegs...best prices by far. I didn't want to cut into the heater core hose, so I opted out of the mech. Water Temp gauge. If you don't like the Big Ol' Volt gauge then stick with a single pod and boost gauage...... either way, dual or single pods, looks good.
kitbuf,
Try Summitt and Jegs...best prices by far. I didn't want to cut into the heater core hose, so I opted out of the mech. Water Temp gauge. If you don't like the Big Ol' Volt gauge then stick with a single pod and boost gauage...... either way, dual or single pods, looks good.